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Roof Marker Light Install

I'm glad i did it! :smile2: I like you and a few others was nervous about cutting holes in the roof of my 2019. I don't believe they are required on 3/4 ton trucks in most states, but i think that it makes the truck look so much better. Chevyguy_72 has the square hold punch that 1badgsx sent to me to use. It works great. Still have to file the hole(s) just a little to get the exact fit.

David
 

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I'm glad i did it! :smile2: I like you and a few others was nervous about cutting holes in the roof of my 2019. I don't believe they are required on 3/4 ton trucks in most states, but i think that it makes the truck look so much better. Chevyguy_72 has the square hold punch that 1badgsx sent to me to use. It works great. Still have to file the hole(s) just a little to get the exact fit.

David
I'm going to inquire as to what the dealer would charge to do it. at least that way they would have to stand behind it if there are any issues.
but i suspect I'm going to get a crazy price.
 

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I looked a 2018 3500 Chevrolet today that a contractor had onsite and the lights sit almost flush, but not quite. It all depended on where you looked on the light and it wasn't just one light, they all were the same way.
 

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I looked a 2018 3500 Chevrolet today that a contractor had onsite and the lights sit almost flush, but not quite. It all depended on where you looked on the light and it wasn't just one light, they all were the same way.
Interesting... all the ones at the dealer i looked at were flush... they were all work trucks and cab-frame trucks... maybe different assembly line different fit?
 

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Thank you to the OP and to all of the folks who posted their tips and experiences with the install. I just installed cab lights on my 2017 Silverado 2500 yesterday. I actually made thin cardboard templates and transferred the driver’s side template to a sheet of paper, cut it out and used that to trace the edges of the hood in relation to the light on a truck that already had them installed. Made a copy, flipped it over and I then had a matching template for both driver and passenger side lights. Made measurements and alignment super simple. I used clear silicone in the space between the two foam seals on the bottom for good measure. Definitely helps to have a second person keep pressure down on the lights as you tighten the 10mm bolt. One question for those of you who have done the install...how far down did you tighten the bolts? I saw where some mentioned not to tighten them too tight. Mine had a fair amount of loctite, I tightened until there was plenty of tension and stopped. There was probably an 1/8” of bolt left until it was completely against the base of the light. The four legs of the bracket were nice and tight and the seal under the light was nice and compressed so I figured it was enough.
 

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It sounds like you got them tight enough hard to tell you how much I tightened mine but sounds like you are good. I did the same with the silicone and mine have been awesome so far no leaks coming up on a year now. Looks sweet man I love cab lights on a truck.
 

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What a great write up.
I just installed the factory cab lights on my 18' LTZ. Install was flawless. I measured, made templates, measured again, adjusted and so on. The parts I used were

22794643 (Right)
22794642 (Left)
23463750 (Center) and
84305169 (Harness)

I had researched a few different brands, magnetic, solar powered, remote etc... but ultimately decided on the GM lights.
All of that said, TAKE YOUR TIME. This, for me, was not a rush job. The most tedious part was installing the harness. Thankfully, zero modifications to the harness were needed.
Thanks again for the write up and Happy Fathers Day!
 

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What a great write up.
I just installed the factory cab lights on my 18' LTZ. Install was flawless. I measured, made templates, measured again, adjusted and so on. The parts I used were

22794643 (Right)
22794642 (Left)
23463750 (Center) and
84305169 (Harness)

I had researched a few different brands, magnetic, solar powered, remote etc... but ultimately decided on the GM lights.
All of that said, TAKE YOUR TIME. This, for me, was not a rush job. The most tedious part was installing the harness. Thankfully, zero modifications to the harness were needed.
Thanks again for the write up and Happy Fathers Day!
Did you have to pull the dash to route the harness?
 

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GM part numbers for the lamps are 22794642, 22794643 and 23463750. The part number for the wiring harness I used is at my shop. It wasn't for my vehicle, only one that I could "extract" the light harness from. It was plug and play. Easy. I overlayed the extracted part, secured with plastic zip-ties, and plugged into the fuse box in the RH end of the dash.

Harness left-overs:



Fuse-box end after extracting a couple of wires:



Plugged into empty cavity in RH fuse box:

I take it the black was ground and the purple wires pin was "hot" My multi-meter tells me on my truck those right side pins top to bottom are:

1-Hot
2-Not Hot
3-Hot

Bottom 3 are all "Not Hot"

I see your purple goes to one of the lower pins on your install....mine are all "Not Hot" in that region - My only hot pins are 2 on top (First and 3rd pin) Does this seem right?

Thanks
 

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Ive completed this as well with no issues except for nailing down one aspect:

How tight did everyone tighten their bolts down?
 

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Ive completed this as well with no issues except for nailing down one aspect:

How tight did everyone tighten their bolts down?


I have the same concern. Don't want them working loose, but don't want to break the plastic over torqueing.
 
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