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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
second idea; with the 2.5" seat lift I have more room to mount stuff so I stand a decent chance of taking advantage of the extra room. If all works out, as a bonus, I'll get to keep my mounting panels flat and simple (not that I'm afraid of heating the panel to bend....but I am ;) only got one to work with). Because of that, this is most likely the route I will go.....assuming all things are possible. 2 pieces total; drivers side gets the amps, passenger side gets the crossovers and DSP......behold:

 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
small detail; not sure what these are called but when you have the 2.5" seat lift installed and you engage/disengage the seat from the back wall to either fold down the seat or put it back to the upright position, sometimes these little plastic pieces pop off. So I went old school (in my mind anyway) and used some weatherstrip adhesive (Loctite 37532 Black Weatherstrip Adhesive) in the hopes (fingers crossed) they get locked into place:



I used this technique:
 

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Are you doing an amp rack on the back wall?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Are you doing an amp rack on the back wall?
originally I thought I would be putting the amp rack on the back wall but after test fitting everything I believe there's enough room behind the subwoofer box to mount the rack on the floor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
here's a pic of the seat folded down/great feature:

 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
this is why I needed to trim/clearance the side plastic pieces:

 

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Could you post a few more pics of the seats folded down?
I am trying to figure out some things and I see you have the electric back window as well. I also have the Bose amp on the back wall that I am thinking about relocating. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Could you post a few more pics of the seats folded down?
I am trying to figure out some things and I see you have the electric back window as well. I also have the Bose amp on the back wall that I am thinking about relocating. Thanks
does this one help?

 

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Can you get one of the electric window motor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
speaker adapters showed up and starting to prep them for install. First thing was to fill the open end with some liquid electrical tape/insulation:

 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
some of the parts to get these adapters ready for install:

 
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
not perfect but good enough for this project, had to wait for supplies to show up:

 
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Are you doing anything with the dash speakers?
I have been trying to figure out the chime volume issue and how to get a full range signal to my processor. Right now I am thinking the PAC GM amppro will do what I need, it’s kind of expensive, but you gotta pay if you want to play😁.
I found your build over on diymobile as well, a lot of good information and nice builds on there. Looking forward to seeing your build completed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
got the rear speakers foam taped and mounted up:




polarity checks out, time to get the door panels back on!



going to add some sound deadening around the door speaker area/ABS plastic speaker mounting bracket
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Are you doing anything with the dash speakers?
I have been trying to figure out the chime volume issue and how to get a full range signal to my processor. Right now I am thinking the PAC GM amppro will do what I need, it’s kind of expensive, but you gotta pay if you want to play😁.
I found your build over on diymobile as well, a lot of good information and nice builds on there. Looking forward to seeing your build completed.
Thanks man! I was only going to post the project on DIY but then I thought maybe someone would like to see it here that wouldn't necessarily frequent a car audio specific forum.

I will be removing the dash speakers and running component tweeters in place of the 2.5"ish speakers.

I bought the AmpPro AP4-GM61 for this project as well; it seems to be the best solution that I know of.
 
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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Again, not perfect, but good enough for this project. I found this area to be rather difficult to get everything to lay flat-ish...anyway, this is the process I've been using. First I trace a "rough" template on a bisquine type product, then stick it to the Stinger Roadkill, cut it out, then use the cut Stinger Roadkill piece to trace a template on the 1/8" Dynamat Dynaliner. Then I clean the area I want to apply it to with Isopropyl alcohol and then apply the sound products.

Door speaker/Stinger Roadkill


Door speaker/Dynamat Dynaliner


completed door:
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
rear door panels are back on; overall the rear doors sound very solid...feels like I added a decent amount of mass. I also added tesa tape underneath all the door panel plastic pins before I mounted them back up.....not sure if it will help much but figured why not.
 

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I just ordered the same box from MTI.
How long did it take for you to get your box?
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
I just ordered the same box from MTI.
How long did it take for you to get your box?
Mornin! Build time from ordering the box to being shipped out is about 2-3 weeks. Congrats on your purchase; I'm confident you'll be happy with it. Note: there was a small hiccup with my sub box so a new one was sent out on Tuesday. James could not have been more professional; 100% stands behind his/their designs. With that said; my sub box is their lowest version/model so some adjustments needed to be made on their cutting program for that build level/design; I believe their materials are all CNC cut...hence the precise fit. James indicated he needed to update the dimensions and built me a new box with the updated info = you should be gtg as well!
 
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I talked with him yesterday for a while and it turns out that we have a mutual friend. He was really cool and more than willing to answer my questions, so I pulled the trigger. Good to hear that he took care of you. Thanks for the info on the build time.
What was the issue? If you don’t mind me asking.
Are you getting a chance to work on your system?
 
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