Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum banner

1 - 20 of 42 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm wanting to augment the stock stereo system in my 2016 Crew Cab. Would like to run 1 10" subwoofer and possibly a set of components up front.

1. What are the speakers sizes? dash/front doors/rear doors

2. Where can I pull a full stereo signal from?

Thank you!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
I did the kicker vehicle specific system with sub/amp and digital processor for the HU. Really pleased with the easy install and overall performance. Better than Bose imo. Just another option to choose from. Down the road I’d like to do door speakers as well, but no rush on those.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Checkout Crutchfield.com

Door speakers should be 6.5s.

I’d run a shallow mount jl 10 and some jl, alpine or Memphis 6.5s.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I did the kicker vehicle specific system with sub/amp and digital processor for the HU. Really pleased with the easy install and overall performance. Better than Bose imo. Just another option to choose from. Down the road I’d like to do door speakers as well, but no rush on those.

Thanks guys, I'm primarily looking for which speakers I can get a full stereo signal from or 20Hz to 20,000Hz or close to it. Some newer car speakers only receive a partial signal, mainly to support the freq's those particular speakers are designed to produce, also more common in higher end stock stereo systems rather than the base model stereo systems like mine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
update, my truck has RPO codes IO6 and UQ3 which are 8" navigation screen and 6 speakers sound system. I don't believe any of the speakers are amplified and quite possible the front speakers "might" carry a full or near full signal! more to follow as I learn
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,933 Posts
I'm wanting to augment the stock stereo system in my 2016 Crew Cab. Would like to run 1 10" subwoofer and possibly a set of components up front.

1. What are the speakers sizes? dash/front doors/rear doors

2. Where can I pull a full stereo signal from?

Thank you!
it depends what you mean by full stereo signal, technically GM radios do not produce full range audio, they have internal filtering to reduce wear and tear on the factory speakers for a longer service life. They do this by dropping out a lot of the low end and some of the high with some fairly aggressive band pass filtering, hence the saying, "all highs, no lows, must be bose" if you just mean signal that contains low mid and high frequency then you should be able to tag signal at the radio or at the bose amp, ive only worked on a couple of the new chevy trucks but the ones i worked on had analog audio at the head unit. either way, you will for sure have signal at the bose amp outputs, front doors are your best bet for signal, rears seem to me to have heavier bass filtering, though i have not use an RTA to prove that.

If you want true full signal then you either need to use an equalizer to rebuild what was lost by the decks signal processing using an RTA, or you need to replace the deck with an aftermarket.

edit: it occurred to me after posting that it says NON bose, so in that case, you should have audio at the head unit directly wired to each speaker. GM did change the standard radio wire colors on the NNBS trucks though if memory serves, do not use the NBS or OBS wiring info.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
it depends what you mean by full stereo signal, technically GM radios do not produce full range audio, they have internal filtering to reduce wear and tear on the factory speakers for a longer service life. They do this by dropping out a lot of the low end and some of the high with some fairly aggressive band pass filtering, hence the saying, "all highs, no lows, must be bose" if you just mean signal that contains low mid and high frequency then you should be able to tag signal at the radio or at the bose amp, ive only worked on a couple of the new chevy trucks but the ones i worked on had analog audio at the head unit. either way, you will for sure have signal at the bose amp outputs, front doors are your best bet for signal, rears seem to me to have heavier bass filtering, though i have not use an RTA to prove that.

If you want true full signal then you either need to use an equalizer to rebuild what was lost by the decks signal processing using an RTA, or you need to replace the deck with an aftermarket.

edit: it occurred to me after posting that it says NON bose, so in that case, you should have audio at the head unit directly wired to each speaker. GM did change the standard radio wire colors on the NNBS trucks though if memory serves, do not use the NBS or OBS wiring info.
Would you happen to know if resistors are needed with the GM trucks if you remove the stock speakers (like an Audio Control LGD)? I'm not sure I understand what you mean by analog but in my head that means legacy or "how it used to be" and therefore may not need the resistors to produce sound when hooking up an amplifier.

I suppose I could drop some coin on an Audio Control LC7i that could do some summing and provide 3 channels of output........thoughts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,933 Posts
Would you happen to know if resistors are needed with the GM trucks if you remove the stock speakers (like an Audio Control LGD)? I'm not sure I understand what you mean by analog but in my head that means legacy or "how it used to be" and therefore may not need the resistors to produce sound when hooking up an amplifier.

I suppose I could drop some coin on an Audio Control LC7i that could do some summing and provide 3 channels of output........thoughts?

analog would mean that the deck produces an AC wave that plays directly to the speakers. That does not necessarily mean the deck does not have sensing for dead speakers (when you would need resistors) some decks send a digital signal to a amplifier that decodes the data, processes it, amplifies it, then sends an analog signal to the speakers. This can be done either over copper wire, or plastic fiber optic cable depending on the design of the car. GM does not use fiber optic cable, so you are in the clear there.

i have not done a 18, but i have done a 17 and resistors were not required, at least when replacing the speakers with an aftermarket with a 4 ohm voice coil.

I have used resistors on that truck before, but only when amplifying the door speakers. The resistor was used to keep the factory tweeters from blowing your eardrums with the door chime.

while i have not personally used the summing device you are talking about, i do know about it, and have heard lots of good things about it. I will tell you that the factory radio on those new trucks really cuts the bass hard, without some kind of signal processor, your final results (sub wise) may be underwhelming.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
analog would mean that the deck produces an AC wave that plays directly to the speakers. That does not necessarily mean the deck does not have sensing for dead speakers (when you would need resistors) some decks send a digital signal to a amplifier that decodes the data, processes it, amplifies it, then sends an analog signal to the speakers. This can be done either over copper wire, or plastic fiber optic cable depending on the design of the car. GM does not use fiber optic cable, so you are in the clear there.

i have not done a 18, but i have done a 17 and resistors were not required, at least when replacing the speakers with an aftermarket with a 4 ohm voice coil.

I have used resistors on that truck before, but only when amplifying the door speakers. The resistor was used to keep the factory tweeters from blowing your eardrums with the door chime.

while i have not personally used the summing device you are talking about, i do know about it, and have heard lots of good things about it. I will tell you that the factory radio on those new trucks really cuts the bass hard, without some kind of signal processor, your final results (sub wise) may be underwhelming.
Right now the plan looks something like this

Line Out Converter =
Audio Control LC2i

Front Door and Dash Speakers/Amplifier =
1x Pioneer GM-D8604 Class FD 4-Channel 600W amp
1x Pioneer TS-D1720C 6.75-Inch D-Series Components

Rear Door Speakers =
Stock

Under Rear Seat Subwoofer/Amplifier =
1x Pioneer GM-D8601 Class D Mono 800W amp
1x Sundown Audio SA-10 D2 Rev 2 (10" Dual 2-Ohm SA Series Sub)

Possibly a LC7i over the LC2i, use the component tweets in the dash position, 6.75" in the front doors, maybe sending power to stock rear door speakers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,933 Posts
if you amplify the stock speakers you will blow them apart. either run the rears on deck power and save the other 2 channels, or switch to a 2 channel amp. i would not amplify the dash speakers either (it cant really be avoided if you amp the fronts, but i would not go out of my way to run the dash speakers as actively amplified tweeters on there own channel or anything like that). things get very tinny when you start blasting high frequencies off the windshield.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
if you amplify the stock speakers you will blow them apart. either run the rears on deck power and save the other 2 channels, or switch to a 2 channel amp. i would not amplify the dash speakers either (it cant really be avoided if you amp the fronts, but i would not go out of my way to run the dash speakers as actively amplified tweeters on there own channel or anything like that). things get very tinny when you start blasting high frequencies off the windshield.
Thank you for that advice, so I could leave dash speakers and rear door speakers alone running off deck power and then run my front door components on a 6x9 adapter plate for a 6.75" woofer/tweet (which I have)

I like that suggestion a lot, if I am understanding it correctly!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,933 Posts
Thank you for that advice, so I could leave dash speakers and rear door speakers alone running off deck power and then run my front door components on a 6x9 adapter plate for a 6.75" woofer/tweet (which I have)

I like that suggestion a lot, if I am understanding it correctly!


correct, you would only cut the wires to the front speakers and pass them through the amplifier, leaving the rear speakers running off the deck. The dash speakers will still get amplified this way, as they are in parallel with the front doors, but you will not be going out of your way to amplify them. In an active system, a 4 channel amp would run the 2 door speakers and the 2 tweeters, each on one channel. The rears would be on a different amp, or disconnected all together. This gives you very precise control over the tweeters, as you can filter them individually from the woofer in the door. the down side is that with the speakers pointing at the glass, it will sound like someone is shouting at you down a steel pipe. so the less power you can push into the glass the better. the factory speakers cannot take being directly amplified, they will survive in parallel with the upgraded front door speakers since the majority of the power will go through the lower ohm door speaker, but were you to directly power the tweeters they would fail very quickly. Were it my truck, id just cut the wires to the dash tweeters and be done with it and the annoying super loud door chimes. It would improve audio quality to lose those speakers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
correct, you would only cut the wires to the front speakers and pass them through the amplifier, leaving the rear speakers running off the deck. The dash speakers will still get amplified this way, as they are in parallel with the front doors, but you will not be going out of your way to amplify them. In an active system, a 4 channel amp would run the 2 door speakers and the 2 tweeters, each on one channel. The rears would be on a different amp, or disconnected all together. This gives you very precise control over the tweeters, as you can filter them individually from the woofer in the door. the down side is that with the speakers pointing at the glass, it will sound like someone is shouting at you down a steel pipe. so the less power you can push into the glass the better. the factory speakers cannot take being directly amplified, they will survive in parallel with the upgraded front door speakers since the majority of the power will go through the lower ohm door speaker, but were you to directly power the tweeters they would fail very quickly. Were it my truck, id just cut the wires to the dash tweeters and be done with it and the annoying super loud door chimes. It would improve audio quality to lose those speakers.
Since wired in parallel I'm assuming the dash tweet and maybe even the door woofer have a capacitor on them to keep lower freq's at bay? Ok that sounds very doable. So the plan moving forward would be to pull a signal from the front speakers to the LC2i. From the LC2i one set of RCA's will feed the subwoofer amp; the other set or RCA's feed the 4 channel amp to the components that will mount in the front doors.

Question, any idea what the frequency range is for the stock front speakers is? Doubtful its a full 20hz to 20khz?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,933 Posts
Since wired in parallel I'm assuming the dash tweet and maybe even the door woofer have a capacitor on them to keep lower freq's at bay? Ok that sounds very doable. So the plan moving forward would be to pull a signal from the front speakers to the LC2i. From the LC2i one set of RCA's will feed the subwoofer amp; the other set or RCA's feed the 4 channel amp to the components that will mount in the front doors.

Question, any idea what the frequency range is for the front speakers? Doubtful its a full 20hz to 20khz?

ive never put an RTA on it, its no where near 20-20k though. bass is very limited as are the high highs. Im not sure if the tweeters have caps or not since they are fairly large tweeters and the whole system is something like 5 watts per speaker, they may be wires straight together. ive only done a hand full of those new trucks. it wouldent hurt you to add a capacitor to it though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
ive never put an RTA on it, its no where near 20-20k though. bass is very limited as are the high highs. Im not sure if the tweeters have caps or not since they are fairly large tweeters and the whole system is something like 5 watts per speaker, they may be wires straight together. ive only done a hand full of those new trucks. it wouldent hurt you to add a capacitor to it though.
hmm, I'll need to think about this a bit more possibly. I might be well served to add something that could restore a full signal, is that what a DSP does? never used one
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,933 Posts
hmm, I'll need to think about this a bit more possibly. I might be well served to add something that could restore a full signal, is that what a DSP does? never used one
that is the intended use for the LC2i. It cant create data thats not there though, so the part of the music that the factory deck cuts out is gone, but it can help to extend the cutoff points and round things out in the low end, which is what you are looking for. It will not give you the same sound quality as replacing the deck, but it will give you much better sound quality then just running a standard LOC (Line Output Converter).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
that is the intended use for the LC2i. It cant create data thats not there though, so the part of the music that the factory deck cuts out is gone, but it can help to extend the cutoff points and round things out in the low end, which is what you are looking for. It will not give you the same sound quality as replacing the deck, but it will give you much better sound quality then just running a standard LOC (Line Output Converter).
Ok very good, I think the LC2i will serve me just fine then, especially for a system that isn't meant to be terribly invasive. I'll save the aftermarket deck for my 73 C10!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
on a side note, it will be good to finally install this stereo gear in something, been sitting in my closet since 2015! doh!
 
1 - 20 of 42 Posts
Top