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on a side note, it will be good to finally install this stereo gear in something, been sitting in my closet since 2015! doh!
ohh, so you have the good Pioneer TS-D's.... those will be nice. i have the same speakers in the component set, they are one of my favorite all around speakers. The new TS-D's are not built as well in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
ohh, so you have the good Pioneer TS-D's.... those will be nice. i have the same speakers in the component set, they are one of my favorite all around speakers. The new TS-D's are not built as well in my opinion.
Yes that's what I have, the 6.75" components. I was looking at my notes from 2015 and I made a note to run them on the -3db setting, can't remember why'dunno;
 

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Yes that's what I have, the 6.75" components. I was looking at my notes from 2015 and I made a note to run them on the -3db setting, can't remember why'dunno;
id leave them at 0, they are not super harsh speakers like the kicker QS line for example. make sure you check them before you put the doors back on, removing those door skins is not exactly dreamy.

the + and - refers to the amount of high frequency cut the tweeter gets, this is not the factory speaker, this is the one either built into the woofer, or separate depending if you have coax or component speakers. a - will reduce the "volume" of the high frequency, a + will increase it. the larger the number the greater the cut or boost.

-3 will give you a 3db cut, which effectively halves the power to the speaker. the decibel scale is not liner though so a -6 would be 4x -9 would be 8x and so on the reduction and vise versa for the + just in the other direction. The math above is not 100% accurate, it is the "back of the envelope" method of doing the wattage and db calculation, its close enough for really anything short of a physics exam or something.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
id leave them at 0, they are not super harsh speakers like the kicker QS line for example. make sure you check them before you put the doors back on, removing those door skins is not exactly dreamy.

the + and - refers to the amount of high frequency cut the tweeter gets, this is not the factory speaker, this is the one either built into the woofer, or separate depending if you have coax or component speakers. a - will reduce the "volume" of the high frequency, a + will increase it. the larger the number the greater the cut or boost.

-3 will give you a 3db cut, which effectively halves the power to the speaker. the decibel scale is not liner though so a -6 would be 4x -9 would be 8x and so on the reduction and vise versa for the + just in the other direction. The math above is not 100% accurate, it is the "back of the envelope" method of doing the wattage and db calculation, its close enough for really anything short of a physics exam or something.
Ahh, ok, makes sense. I guess I could use this opportunity to use up some of this sound deadener I have as well. I'll have to look up some vids on removing the door panels!
 

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the hardest part is the window seal, it comes off with the door panel and needs to be reinstalled on the door before the panel is put back on, its just frustrating to get all the little tabs lined up and you feel like the panel is just on the edge of breaking the whole time you are removing it. its not really hard, just sketchy.

as far as sound damping, the best bet it to use strips or squares and add weight to large flat panels. you do not need to coat the whole door in it, you can, but its not required. if you have a limited quantity of material, things like the inside of the outer door skin are good places, because its almost flat and has very little or no reinforcement on the back, so you get a lot of buzzing and rattling. the goal of sound damping, at least the heavy rubber stuff that is most common, is simply to add weight to the panel, this lowers the panels natural harmonic frequency below what is audible, the panel still vibrates you just cant hear it any more.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
the hardest part is the window seal, it comes off with the door panel and needs to be reinstalled on the door before the panel is put back on, its just frustrating to get all the little tabs lined up and you feel like the panel is just on the edge of breaking the whole time you are removing it. its not really hard, just sketchy.

as far as sound damping, the best bet it to use strips or squares and add weight to large flat panels. you do not need to coat the whole door in it, you can, but its not required. if you have a limited quantity of material, things like the inside of the outer door skin are good places, because its almost flat and has very little or no reinforcement on the back, so you get a lot of buzzing and rattling. the goal of sound damping, at least the heavy rubber stuff that is most common, is simply to add weight to the panel, this lowers the panels natural harmonic frequency below what is audible, the panel still vibrates you just cant hear it any more.
ok excellent, I have the Stinger butyl with aluminum backing and a few boxes of Dynaliner self adhesive foam.....so I can finally put those to good use while I'm in there!
 

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ok excellent, I have the Stinger butyl with aluminum backing and a few boxes of Dynaliner self adhesive foam.....so I can finally put those to good use while I'm in there!
the aluminized stuff is what i was talking about for the weight, the foam is better for keeping wire harnesses and plastic parts from vibrating against other parts. use it around wire harnesses and where the plastic door panel meets the metal to act as a cushion.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
the aluminized stuff is what i was talking about for the weight, the foam is better for keeping wire harnesses and plastic parts from vibrating against other parts. use it around wire harnesses and where the plastic door panel meets the metal to act as a cushion.
check! I think the last thing it would be nice to have a copy of would be the green connector wiring diagram. As I understand it, that's the one with all the speaker wire leads. Probably going to use a AX-GMLAN 09 EXT extension harness if I can verify its the same 16pin connector and build a T-Harness to keep it all plug and play
 

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check! I think the last thing it would be nice to have a copy of would be the green connector wiring diagram. As I understand it, that's the one with all the speaker wire leads. Probably going to use a AX-GMLAN 09 EXT extension harness if I can verify its the same 16pin connector and build a T-Harness to keep it all plug and play


if you look at the install guide for your truck for the maestro harness from idatalink the guide lists all your wire colors and locations. Im not sure if i got the right radio in the link below, you may want to check.

http://images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/RR-GMS/ADS-RR(SR)-GMS03-DS-IG-EN_20180528.pdf
 

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thank you, looks like that one was for a Colorado, searching!
there are several vehicles in that guide, scroll down. Maestros stuff covers MANY vehicles with 1 module by selling you the module and the harness separately. its a great cost savings in production to not have to build a unique system for every vehicle. As a result though, there guides are somewhat... lengthy...

for the record, they would be my preferred choice for a deck replacement harness, with second place going to PAC. There harness can be purchases separate of the module and it would give you the female end of the harness to connect to the factory harness, all you would need to make your own T would be a factory connector and some solder. though, i would just cut the 4 wires you need in the factory harness and call it a day. That is also how any shop would do it for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
there are several vehicles in that guide, scroll down. Maestros stuff covers MANY vehicles with 1 module by selling you the module and the harness separately. its a great cost savings in production to not have to build a unique system for every vehicle. As a result though, there guides are somewhat... lengthy...

for the record, they would be my preferred choice for a deck replacement harness, with second place going to PAC. There harness can be purchases separate of the module and it would give you the female end of the harness to connect to the factory harness, all you would need to make your own T would be a factory connector and some solder. though, i would just cut the 4 wires you need in the factory harness and call it a day. That is also how any shop would do it for you.
its correct! lol I didn't scroll far enough down, thank you! doh!
 

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side note, i noticed your in Vegas. When you apply that matting, make sure your not in direct sunlight, as it will soften the adhesive significantly. Heat is often used to apply rubber mat, but sitting in direct sunlight in Vegas would probably be a little warmer then intended. you will also want to make sure that you roll it into the metal with a hard wooden roller to ensure bonding to the metal. (be careful not to deform the outer sheet metal of the door) you should clean the metal where you want to apply mat with alcohol, do not use brake clean, it will take paint off, the alcohol will as well but to much less of a degree. These steps are recommended everywhere, but in really hot climates they are required or it will not stick well long term. also, do NOT cover wire harnesses with the rubber mat, if you ever need to service one of them, your life, or the mechanics life will be hell, and either way you are going to pay for it. if harnesses are rattling use the foam and put it under the harness, and another piece on the opposite side to sandwich the harness between the foam.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
side note, i noticed your in Vegas. When you apply that matting, make sure your not in direct sunlight, as it will soften the adhesive significantly. Heat is often used to apply rubber mat, but sitting in direct sunlight in Vegas would probably be a little warmer then intended. you will also want to make sure that you roll it into the metal with a hard wooden roller to ensure bonding to the metal. (be careful not to deform the outer sheet metal of the door) you should clean the metal where you want to apply mat with alcohol, do not use brake clean, it will take paint off, the alcohol will as well but to much less of a degree. These steps are recommended everywhere, but in really hot climates they are required or it will not stick well long term. also, do NOT cover wire harnesses with the rubber mat, if you ever need to service one of them, your life, or the mechanics life will be hell, and either way you are going to pay for it. if harnesses are rattling use the foam and put it under the harness, and another piece on the opposite side to sandwich the harness between the foam.
Copy all, will follow those guidelines for sure, I tend to be a little on the particular side when doing my own work so I will do all I can to make it a clean and functional install. Maybe there's a wrecked late model at the local pick a part I can cut some electrical connectors out of = inventory search!
 

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Discussion Starter #35
analog would mean that the deck produces an AC wave that plays directly to the speakers. That does not necessarily mean the deck does not have sensing for dead speakers (when you would need resistors) some decks send a digital signal to a amplifier that decodes the data, processes it, amplifies it, then sends an analog signal to the speakers. This can be done either over copper wire, or plastic fiber optic cable depending on the design of the car. GM does not use fiber optic cable, so you are in the clear there.

i have not done a 18, but i have done a 17 and resistors were not required, at least when replacing the speakers with an aftermarket with a 4 ohm voice coil.

I have used resistors on that truck before, but only when amplifying the door speakers. The resistor was used to keep the factory tweeters from blowing your eardrums with the door chime.

while i have not personally used the summing device you are talking about, i do know about it, and have heard lots of good things about it. I will tell you that the factory radio on those new trucks really cuts the bass hard, without some kind of signal processor, your final results (sub wise) may be underwhelming.
revisiting this: if I pull a signal from the front speakers (keeping the dash speakers on deck power only) to the LC2i to Amplifier to the 2-way Components (passive X-over) to the front doors, will my chimes be at the current stock volumes or will they be amplified?
 

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revisiting this: if I pull a signal from the front speakers (keeping the dash speakers on deck power only) to the LC2i to Amplifier to the 2-way Components (passive X-over) to the front doors, will my chimes be at the current stock volumes or will they be amplified?

i beleive the dash speakers are in parallel with the door speakers on most truck, unless your truck has more then 4 channels from the factory the dash speakers will be connected to the front doors. This will ultimately end in them being amplified to some extent. Depending on how you tune the amp, it may not be a problem. or you may find they are too loud. If they are too loud, installing a 30-50 watt 8 ohm sandstone resistor in series seems to bring them down to a reasonable level. You likely do not need a resistor that large, its just what i had on hand.
 

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What part of factory stereo id for XM holds that id info? I have life time XM and next truck I want to take with me.Is it what I see on face or an other component? Sorry I just never see anyone know what's what.'dunno;
 

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What part of factory stereo id for XM holds that id info? I have life time XM and next truck I want to take with me.Is it what I see on face or an other component? Sorry I just never see anyone know what's what.'dunno;
there is an XM tuner behind the face of the radio in the dash, but i do not know where the license information is stored or if its vin locked or not. most if not all the GM radios in the last 10 + years are vin locked to the truck they are in and require dealer programming to interchange. I do not have a good answer for you, we dont have satellite radio coverage here so its not something we deal with.
 

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Some how they know vin of vehicle.Thanks,like I said not much mentioned of this subject. Sorry for non subject post in hopes of figuring it out.Thanks:grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Update: I know it's been a hot minute but some new $hit has come to light; first there was this video incorporating an Amp Pro AP4-GM61:

Then there was this loop back harness video:

And finally plans have changed slightly; First thing I ordered was this rear seat lift kit (#1425) from Lee:
LMI Welding Quality Metal Fabrication

I will most likely be incorporating a budget friendly DSP into the mix although I have not made that decision yet.

Next I am going to modify a wedge shaped subwoofer box I already own to fit my Sundown SA10, most likely down firing due to excursion.

Lastly I'm pretty sold on the new Pioneer TS-Z65CH components, they sound very clean to my ear using Crutchfields "compare the sound" feature.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSZ65CH/Pioneer-TS-Z65CH.html

I'm going to break this install up into various smaller jobs to make things a little easier and "more fun" for me. Probably going to start with sound proofing the rear seat area and back wall along with installing the rear seat lift kit.
 
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