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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2020 3500 L5P, just turned over 77k miles. I love the truck in general, but want to upgrade the ride quality. I tow fairly often, mostly just light stuff but heavier stuff once in a while. I'd love to level the truck also. I'm thinking of doing Kryptonite UCA's with bilsteins, but open to opinions. What would be best for improving pavement ride while not sacraficing towability?

Thanks in advance!!
 

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Put on a set of Bilstein 4600s or 5100s. That'll give great ride characteristics and you won't lose any towabilty, in fact, the towing experience will be better as well.
 
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Will that set sensors off? Tire shop has mine at 60 front 80 back
On my 3500, the fronts are at 50 and the rears at 60. Any lower, and I'll get a warning light. Bitter cold mornings will make it dip, but usally clears within a few miles of driving.
 

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For the best ride levelled:

Go max 2.5" for proper angles and ride quality. 2" will be the best.

If you plan on doing only a 2" level the kryptonite UCA's will be the best, if you do 2.5"-3" level then go with the Cognito UCA's for the extra droop. It is not recommended to do over 2" with the kryptonites, ride quality will be affected. The best shocks are King 2.5 resi but are expensive. The bilstein 5160 resi is a great alternative, if looking for a more budget freindly great shock then bilstein 5100 is plenty (Most people go this route). Both Bilsteins you'll have to run shock extensions out front but that's okay. The bilsteins are a robust shock, very durable and reliable. SuspensionMaxx Keys are really good, up to 2.5" of lift. They also sell a differential drop and skid plate drop to bring the CV axles to a more tolerable angle. Running your tire pressure down and increasing your tire to wheel ratio will also help.
 

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80 is a big reason your ride is pretty sht. my rears I keep at 70 because the ride doesn't bother me and keeps the wife out of the truck..... lol

if it's too low it will I believe under 45or 50 it goes off
3500 SRW will go off around 60 on the rears. If you have a relationship with your dealer, they can reprogram the rears to 70 instead of factory 80, then you can go lower than 60 before going off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
For the best ride levelled:

Go max 2.5" for proper angles and ride quality. 2" will be the best.

If you plan on doing only a 2" level the kryptonite UCA's will be the best, if you do 2.5"-3" level then go with the Cognito UCA's for the extra droop. It is not recommended to do over 2" with the kryptonites, ride quality will be affected. The best shocks are King 2.5 resi but are expensive. The bilstein 5160 resi is a great alternative, if looking for a more budget freindly great shock then bilstein 5100 is plenty (Most people go this route). Both Bilsteins you'll have to run shock extensions out front but that's okay. The bilsteins are a robust shock, very durable and reliable. SuspensionMaxx Keys are really good, up to 2.5" of lift. They also sell a differential drop and skid plate drop to bring the CV axles to a more tolerable angle. Running your tire pressure down and increasing your tire to wheel ratio will also help.
Are the suspension maxx keys much better than the kryptonite?? Thanks for info on shocks. And by tire to wheel ratio, you mean a little bigger tire would ride better, correct? I’ll need new tires this fall and have been debating on doing 35s anyway… If that helps the ride quality too, I’d probably be sold.
 

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Do your tire inflation both loaded and unloaded using the "chalk" method to gain best possible ride quality as associated with tire issues.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
3500 SRW will go off around 60 on the rears. If you have a relationship with your dealer, they can reprogram the rears to 70 instead of factory 80, then you can go lower than 60 before going off.
Are these pressures still on for towing as well??I’m going to let some air out. Been thinking of a battery compressor to live in the truck so if I have to put in some air before hauling, not a huge deal. I’m in Montana so big temp fluctuations, not sure if that makes a significant difference or not. Should I start by leaving fronts at 60 and lowering backs to 70?
 

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Are these pressures still on for towing as well??I’m going to let some air out. Been thinking of a battery compressor to live in the truck so if I have to put in some air before hauling, not a huge deal. I’m in Montana so big temp fluctuations, not sure if that makes a significant difference or not. Should I start by leaving fronts at 60 and lowering backs to 70?
I posted my last post as you posted this. But no, most guys that have these trucks do not tow or haul, so they lower the pressure to unsafe levels.
 

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Are these pressures still on for towing as well??I’m going to let some air out. Been thinking of a battery compressor to live in the truck so if I have to put in some air before hauling, not a huge deal. I’m in Montana so big temp fluctuations, not sure if that makes a significant difference or not. Should I start by leaving fronts at 60 and lowering backs to 70?
No, these pressures are not safe for towing.

during winter months when I am not towing, I air down. Spring to fall when towing I air up.
 

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On my 3500, the fronts are at 50 and the rears at 60. Any lower, and I'll get a warning light. Bitter cold mornings will make it dip, but usally clears within a few miles of driving.
Just to give you fair warning, that’s quite unsafe. Not only will you have unsafe handling, if you throw a couple average weight Americans in the front seats you are over capacity of those tires. Now throw several people in there and gear and you are way overweight. There is a sticker on your door jamb with the required pressures for your tires, you might want to take a look at it.
 

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Just to give you fair warning, that’s quite unsafe. Not only will you have unsafe handling, if you throw a couple average weight Americans in the front seats you are over capacity of those tires. Now throw several people in there and gear and you are way overweight. There is a sticker on your door jamb with the required pressures for your tires, you might want to take a look at it.
Not exactly true. The pressures listed are for max towing and/or capacity. Meaning upwards of 3700lbs of capacity on the rear axles. The front tires are max at 60, so 50 won't phase it unloaded. The rears are max at 80, so unloaded at 60 is fine also. Even a cab of 5-300lb people won't phase the truck, even at the lower pressures. The seats might be stressed, but not the truck, tires, or axles. 😂 Look at a tire rating chart. The capacity difference with pressure isn't that dramatic, even with the rears 20 psi less than max. Fully loaded would be a different situation, entirely.
 

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In the warmer months, the cold psi is close to 55F/65R. Towing a 9000lb TT is not an issue with tongue weight around 1200 lbs with the pressures currently running. I would also air up if I still had my 15k fifth wheel. Big difference in tongue weight, though.
 

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Not exactly true. The pressures listed are for max towing and/or capacity. Meaning upwards of 3700lbs of capacity on the rear axles. The front tires are max at 60, so 50 won't phase it unloaded. The rears are max at 80, so unloaded at 60 is fine also. Even a cab of 5-300lb people won't phase the truck, even at the lower pressures. The seats might be stressed, but not the truck, tires, or axles. 😂 Look at a tire rating chart. The capacity difference with pressure isn't that dramatic, even with the rears 20 psi less than max. Fully loaded would be a different situation, entirely.
I have tire pressure charts. At 50 psi your tires are rated for a bit over 2600 pounds. There’s over 5000 pounds on front axle, you do the math.
 
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