3.0 Duramax won’t fire
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Did you check to the fuel filter to see if you have gel?
The temperature is in the 50’s.
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I don't think I've heard about a crank/no-start yet.
Presumably you're getting a dealer to look at it.
Let us know what they find.
Yes, it’s at the dealer now. Truck is brand new. I’ll let you know, hopefully they can find something.
That’s what happened the first time, wouldn’t start first try and then it did start. That was last week the day after I purchased the truck. Then day before yesterday it wouldn’t start on multiple attempts but an hour later when the tow truck showed up it started. Good thing I guess because tow truck driver had no idea how to put it in neutral without the engine running. Drove to dealer and now waiting to hear what they found.
Had this happen twice now, last time was just this afternoon. Went to start and the engine keeps spinning over but no start. Event probably lasts for 10-15 seconds. Nothing you can do but let it crank until it quits spinning. Next push of the button, it fires up like nothings wrong.
Truck has 3,000 miles, no clue what is going on.
Truck has 3,000 miles, no clue what is going on.
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I wonder if the computer stores the reason for unsuccessful start attempts?
Certainly sounds like computer is looking for a signal it's not getting. Bad or weak or misadjusted sensor or poor harness connection somewhere.
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Just out of curiosity but what happens if you try to start with the key fob or app?
This also happened to me once last week. The truck had less than 500 miles on it. I don't know if I stopped the initial no-start sequence with another push of the button, or if it timed out itself.
But a second try at starting was successful. No problems since.
Hopefully it never happens again. Will post if it does.
But a second try at starting was successful. No problems since.
Hopefully it never happens again. Will post if it does.
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My 21 Silverado with the 3.0 is 5 weeks old, with 1500 miles. I have had the starter issue 3 times so far. Last week was the worst. I came out of the doctors office , stepped on the brake, pushed the starter button. I think it cranked for 30 seconds before it stopped. I feel so helpless because there's nothing I can do to stop it. I called two dealers and both said they never heard of the issue. Both were unaware of being able to pull up a trouble code on it. Both also said the same B.S. story about if we can't duplicate it, we won't fix it. I'm turning my camera video on every time now before I try starting. Hopefully I can video it. I've got an appointment to see if the tech's can pull up any codes. Dealer wanted me to leave it for a few days to see if they could duplicate it. I said NO! that's my only means of transportation. Maybe if enough of us with the issue complain, GM will do something about it. Let's keep each other informed.
2017, 2500HD, LTZ, front guard, Duraflap mudguards, Leer bed topper
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1,050 Posts
Dang ‘puters
There is a “start sequence” of course.
Do you recall the oil pressure immediately after it lights up? I ask because if the engine does get ”oil pressure good”, and fuel pressure good, it starts firing injectors, then it gets happy.
I have seen the sequence documented somewhere...
Also, should the “attempt start” button, bounce or fail to release internally there won’t be a “start” as the ‘puter will throw a hissy-fit as it isn’t liking a stuck switch.
This is somewhat “normal” .. should the “start” button is pressed and before it starts the driver hits it again, the ‘puter sees that as a “try to start, never mind, shut off” sequence. That’s how it works on my brides’ button car.
So my “dealer questions”:
There is a “start sequence” of course.
Do you recall the oil pressure immediately after it lights up? I ask because if the engine does get ”oil pressure good”, and fuel pressure good, it starts firing injectors, then it gets happy.
I have seen the sequence documented somewhere...
Also, should the “attempt start” button, bounce or fail to release internally there won’t be a “start” as the ‘puter will throw a hissy-fit as it isn’t liking a stuck switch.
This is somewhat “normal” .. should the “start” button is pressed and before it starts the driver hits it again, the ‘puter sees that as a “try to start, never mind, shut off” sequence. That’s how it works on my brides’ button car.
So my “dealer questions”:
- does it get oil pressure? (If not it is damaging the crankshaft main journals.
- have you replaced the start button?
- have you replaced the brake safety interlock?
- how about anti-theft feature error (is On-stare doing a vehicle disable command?... yes, they have been hacked before and I doubt the dealer will research..
- loaner vehicle.
- safety issue.. who pays when it shuts down on the interstate?
- document time, mileage, location of failures for Lemon Law.
- remain calm when discussing.
- contact GM rep
I have a 2021 GMC Sierra 1500 AT4 with the 3.0 Duramax that is 4 weeks old with 2500 miles. The following has happened three times. I press the brake, press the start button, the engine turns over for approximately 10 seconds without starting. Each of the three times it has started on the next attempt.
The dealer looked at it after the second time and could find nothing wrong.
After reading this thread it appears to be more than an isolated case.
The dealer looked at it after the second time and could find nothing wrong.
After reading this thread it appears to be more than an isolated case.
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Do these trucks have the auto stop/start system? If so, is there a relation between the observed problems and this system? Just wondering to myself.
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Start button (or key) on late model GM's) isn't connected directly to the starter.
Button or key sends signal to the computer, and the computer does a start cycle.
Quickly press and release the button, or 'bump' the key and the truck will go thru whatever glowplug cycle is required (based on temps) and then continue with the start cycle.
Either they aren't seeing correct feedback from one of the sensors, so not requesting injection -- or the injection request isn't being acted on.
Sensor issue or connection issue seems likely.
Button or key sends signal to the computer, and the computer does a start cycle.
Quickly press and release the button, or 'bump' the key and the truck will go thru whatever glowplug cycle is required (based on temps) and then continue with the start cycle.
Either they aren't seeing correct feedback from one of the sensors, so not requesting injection -- or the injection request isn't being acted on.
Sensor issue or connection issue seems likely.
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