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2006 Silverado 3500 6.6L LBZ SRW CrewCab Long box. Lots of Km.
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I needed a truck to haul heavy logs and have been looking for an LBZ for the past two years.
I finally found my 3500 four door 8' box SRW LBZ, I had to have it inspected as I had purchased it from a different province.

I changed 4 balljoints (mevotech), three rear Ujoints and center bearing (timkin) two front hubs (timkin), tie-rods(mevotech), steering box and return hose (did a good flush), pitman arm (greasable moog i think), bump stops, I had to add front mud guards that I took from my blazer, headlights were too worn and cracked from the sun so I had to get used ones from Kenny-U-Pull, I had rear parking break mechanism changed on both sides with the new seals and gaskets and should be properly torqued, finally found a good mechanic who wasn't trying to rip me off; that's another story... anyway, and brand new tires and rims. ( i don't like the rims with the chromy covers on them, besides, one of them fell off.

So it finally passed the inspection and it's waiting in a parking lot for alignment. I finally ordered the Haynes duramax manual and intend on reading through its entirety. This is my first diesel engine and I want to treat it right. given that it has a whole lot of milage, (I don't remember how many hours) and that it came from a farmer that said (it wasn't strong enough for what he needed to do anymore; I'm thinking it's safer to believe it's been abused). I guess it's to say that I'm wondering prioritywise, what maintenance and preventive care I can put on the engine to treat it to last. I read that it's good to clean out the turbo once in a while and that might be a winter project, preferably not THIS winter, but if you guys say that it's a must to clean it before a code appears, I'll make it work.
I don't intend on tweaking any specs, but if the truck treats me right in the next 2 years or so and it helps me rack up some extra money, I'm considering adding an extra gas tank for WVO or biodiesel, living in Quebec though, I'll have to mix it 50/50 with diesel most of the year. still, a seperate tank for this.
Considering gas prices going really high around here and pandemic mid-life-crisees buying all the pickups around, I felt like this year was my last chance to find a good condition LBZ at affordable price.

Anyway, nice to be part of this comunity, I've alread read a whole lot of usefull experience from you guys (and gals maybe).
 

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Welcome to the DF!
 

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Registered
2006 Silverado 3500 6.6L LBZ SRW CrewCab Long box. Lots of Km.
Joined
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks mray.
To continue on my own, I've been told that putting an additive to the fuel once a year or so is good to help lubricate the fuel pump, one of them... or both, as this is a costly part. not entirely sure what that additive is yet.

I read that changing the air filter basically every oil change or once a year is good also. Since this diesel engine works with a whole lot of pressurized systems, I suppose that just dusting it off like an old rug isn't good enough? cause that's what I'd do with my gas engines, as long as I could see sunlight through the folds. It only happened once that I did change it.

So anyway, going to do an oil change on it cause I don't know when it was done last. For some reason the CanadianTire didn't have any regular filters so I got synthetic filter and full synthetic oil. I'm not cheap and apparently it's better, I don't know why exactly. But I don't mind paying a bit extra if it's better for the engine.
I noticed that there's partially synthetic oil for diesels and I thought that odd.
What are your points of view on synthetic oil for the Duramax 6.6?
I've been putting fully synthetic in my 4.3L Vortec. I've been told that once you go synthetic though, it's not good to go back. So I never have. Thoughts?

lastly, I think, there's apparently some issues with both the OE transmission line (problematic clip) and the water pump impeller (it being plastic is prone to breaking). That these issues can be replaced with aftermarket parts that don't have these problems.

thanks again.
 

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I run dieselkleen additive every tank cause it's easy to find not expensive and works for me (everyone has their brand of choice), these trucks aren't particular on type of oil used. Air filter depends on where you drive it, I just keep an eye on mine. Haven't seen to many problems on the LBZ tranny lines and the water pump usually starts leaking from the weep hole when they need replaced. This is just from my reading and experience and there may be one here and there that have had these problems.
 

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2006 Silverado 3500 6.6L LBZ SRW CrewCab Long box. Lots of Km.
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Alright guys, here we go FML.
Serves me right for thinking I could work a whole 2 months with a half a million Km truck.

Forgot to mention above that I change the Steering box for a refurbished one and in doing so broke a return hose (normal stuff) and so had to wait to get that piece. Anyway a couple days ago I got a leak from the powersteering pump-to-booster line, got a new one and was planning on changing that today IF time permitted it. Went around town to run some errands and I notice some other liquid leaking on passenger side, normally where I see condensation from AC leak (but I'm not running AC), yellowish oil... odd... On the way back home P003A...

Now I know none of these seem to be related. I didn't really check more in depth about that passenger side oil leak, but while I was there I wiggled my transmission oil lines, that can't be right, can it? no leak from those like to transmission, but from above it somewhere, like I said I didn't check.

I came inside to feed my kid and read about that code and all that it entails.
Now as I understand, If I want to change any vane position solenoid or valve position sensor, I need a special device for ''re-learning'' the computer to the vane position. (I assume this device is about 400$ on average from a quick search). But of course, having so much mileage on this engine, the problem is most likely a really dirty Turbocharger that has to be removed cleaned/replaced. I guess what I'm wondering is IF I did remove and clean that turbo myself, what can tell me if the Vane Solenoid and Vane Position Sensor and defective (also) and need replacing, considering relearning process is needed (even thought that's the least of my worries). Then haynes manual says to check the No.4 Camshaft bearing for spinning as this one feeds the Turbo and if that fails well so does the fresh Turbo. Trying to figure out where that is, is that even anywhere near the Turbo, cause I'd change it anyway ''while I'm there''.

Speaking of ''while I'm there''... I've been losing coolant with no apparent leaks... so... yeah.. I'm in the process of building a house and have a second kid on the way now. Don't have a garage for storing a big heavy duramax engine to work a whole lot of stuff on it. I could ask somebody, but it'll cost me; either for rental of a space or for work to be done. Either way I'm thinking I'm gonna have to take out the engine some time soon.

Internet advises me not to drive with 003A, I havn't had any power loss yet.
What do you guys think? cut my losses or pay somebody 5 to 8 grand? parts not included.
I'm motivated, just that I do my mechanics outside and was hoping I'd have time before I needed to really work on engine stuff.
 

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Considering gas prices going really high around here and pandemic mid-life-crisees buying all the pickups around, I felt like this year was my last chance to find a good condition LBZ at affordable price.
snaptube vidmate
Anyway, nice to be part of this comunity, I've alread read a whole lot of usefull experience from you guys (and gals maybe).
welcome to the forum
 
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