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I've been told that Stanadyne is an excellent additive, but I see a Injector Cleaner, a Diesel Fuel Additive, and a Lubricity formula. Is anyone using these? Do I need all 3 or will one of these be fine, if so which one is the best at helping keep engine clean and running smoothly? Thanks for any help/suggestions.

Charles
 

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The VERY best additive to add lubricity is to buy yoru fuel from a station that has Bio in it. Even B5 adds more lubricity than any other additive you can buy.

In addition it is an excellent fuel system cleaner.
 
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I haven't seen a pump marked with bio component in several years and even then the guy working the station didn't have a clue what was put in the tanks last shipment.

I don't use Stanadyne but just reading up on their products I would pick the red label Performance formula.
 

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Talked to fuel delivery driver at exon yesterday.He said exon just started putting lubrisity in?
I use stanadine lubrisity every tank.Now they have XL ,purple label,which some say is better?
Use search button .Theres probably 900 hours of reading material already posted.
 

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It's a 2018-2019 roll out across the Country (according to their site), so it may have just hit your region.
 

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I asked if it had bio and said a month ago they got syn,no bio in it.
Exxon sight says detergents ,nothing about lub.Sight seems to jump around a lot .
I’ll have to look at it more later .

Fleet has an old 2005 vid of bio showing no water separation .I didn’t know that.Man there water test strips are expensive.Like 180 for 10.
 

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I asked if it had bio and said a month ago they got syn,no bio in it.

Exxon sight says detergents ,nothing about lub.Sight seems to jump around a lot .

I’ll have to look at it more later .



Fleet has an old 2005 vid of bio showing no water separation .I didn’t know that.Man there water test strips are expensive.Like 180 for 10.
I work at a refinery. We are required to put bio in the shipments.
As for lubricity, different regions have different lubricity specs. Some don't have any specs.

Bob Anderson
From my Galaxy S9+ using Tapatalk.
 

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Propping up Corn subsidies.

Just like most all gas has 10% ethanol in it.

There are a few scattered places offering E-free gas.
That's what I use in all my small engines.
 
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Bob, is the bio requirement from the State? At one time Texas mandated quality diesel that pretty much matched CARB requirements.
I believe the mandate is from the Feds. Each state does have certain specs like octane or vapor pressure.
Anything up to B2 requires lubricity additive to be added. Between B2 and B5 is considered acceptable with B5 being the target.
The lubricity is added at the terminals or when loaded in railcars.

Bob Anderson
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I think the labeling is state specific. In Alabama, it can have up to 5 per cent without any labeling.

From 5 to 20 it has to be labeled, but most use wording that says "up to 20 per cent". I understand Alabama prohibits anything over 20.

The truck stops are only place here that have over 5, and the Pilot station told me the splash blend so it's possible to get a higher concentration in your tank.
 

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I think your right.My in-tank fuel pump in my dirt bike looks like a corn cob.Jets in carbs clog way too soon .

Ethanol free gas stations .

https://www.pure-gas.org/
I've started using an ethanol treatment in all my small engines.
I'm not too concerned about the biodiesel, but the ethanol is a crock. It has lower fuel mileage. It corrodes and it takes an unreal amount of water to make.

Bob Anderson
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I think your right.My in-tank fuel pump in my dirt bike looks like a corn cob.Jets in carbs clog way too soon .
I have a vintage 1-owner 1987 22" Murray mower. Always starts, and it leaves a cut like no new mower does. But for the last 20 years, the throttle wouldn't idle down.

You could move the lever and raise the Rs, but the lowest it'd go was 'bout 1/2 throttle, which is where I like to run it, so it never bothered me.
I had kinda forgot 'bout it.

Then a Buc-ees not far away opened up an expanded 2 canopy area, with E-free 91 octane, Diesel, and bulk DEF on all the aisles.

Filled up the old Murray, did some mowing ('bout a tank full), rolled over and pulled the throttle back.

It dropped down so low, it had a Harley lope goin' on. :laugh:
I have full throttle range now.

Exhaust smells a lot better too.
 

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There are lots of ways to meet specifications for diesel fuel but with all of the government diddling with things it tends to be cheaper to use bio to meet lubricity standards than anything else. I haven't kept track over the last few years but last time I checked it was pretty hard to find any diesel fuel for highway use that doesn't have bio in it. In my mind it is an almost universally good thing. The only problems with bio tend to be with non-compatible rubber fuel lines, cleaning out accumulated crud in fuel systems that previously ran on straight dino fuel and problems with turning to lard in cold weather. Those things don't really apply to our trucks but they do to some older vehicles.

If I'm out of date, please feel free to correct me but that is the way I see it.

As for red died "farm" diesel, last time I checked on it there was still too much sulfur in it for road use but the reason it is died red is because it is exempt from road use taxes. If you get caught with it in your truck (very unlikely) you can be prosecuted for tax evasion but I've never heard of anyone being hassled for pollution.

A friend of mine who is a big time farmer and an ardent John Deere man says that his newest tractors all require un-died fuel and that Deere will not warranty ANYTHING on the tractor if they find red fuel in it.

He has his own tanks and buys his fuel in February when it tends to be cheaper around here. He had to get another tank when he got his newest tractors because he still has older equipment that needs the sulfur of the older fuel. So now he has two kinds of diesel as well as gasoline for his farm equipment. Of course his wife's car is running farm gasoline because, after all, she picks up parts in town from time to time while she is shoe shopping.

And that's all I know about that.
 

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Ah, the great fuel additive debate. These can be nearly as good as what brand of oil is "the best". Some who have been here as long or longer than I have seen these many, many, many times. Hook'em can attest to that. As indicated, ULSD doesn't have the lubricity it once did (prior to 06 I believe. There was a study done 12 yrs ago now by Diesel Place that compared the fuel additives on the market at that time. Bio came in first, Opti-Lube XPD came in 2d, Stanadyne, FPPF and AMSOIL (now called injector clean) were all in the top 10 for lubricity. There hasn't been a large batch study that anyone can find since that time so most refer back to that list. Many will say and use 2-stroke oil for lubricity.

Last month, AMSOIL put out a new article about lubricity in different states and a high frequency reciprocating rig (HFRR) lubricity test. They were testing AMSOIL Saber Professional 2-Stroke oil along with Quicksilver TC-W3, Penzoil Outboard TC-W3 and AMSOIL Diesel Injector Clean. The Diesel Injector Clean had the lowest wear scar meaning it provided the most lubricity.

Here is a link to the report.

Personally, as many have, I have tested many on that old list to include Opti-Lube XPD, Stanadyne, FPPF, AMSOIL and several others over the years here. Based on better fuel economy, quicker starts, smoother idles, I have stuck with AMSOIL Diesel Injector Clean combined with their Cetane Booster, which btw is now available combined into a new product simply called AMSOIL Injector Clean + Cetane Booster. We have always recommended regular use of fuel additives. Doing so is doing what you can to help protect these expensive trucks as best you can. Which one is "the best" that is mostly someone's opinion based on their use of product X. My recommendation is try several different ones and see which provides "the best" results for you.

If I can be of assistance with anything, please don't hesitate to ask.
 

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E free is all I use in our small engines however, in Florida, due to the infinite wisdom of our legislature, they are allowed to sell fuel with up to 5% E as E free. Our good friend who has the local distributorship gets our fuel from Georgia where it is true E free, not sure about other states. Our chainsaws run cooler (infrared) with E free and the ATV doesn't have carb adjustment issues since going to E free.

As far as lubricity, we use ATF, bio, hydraulic oil from the tractors, whichever is available, all filtered @ 1 micron with no issues. ATF is probably the best followed by bio.

The best injector cleaner is GM part # 88861803 aka X66P about $20 -$25, which is no longer offered through GM. This stuff is the only thing that I have found that will really make a difference in your balance rates, several threads on this particular product in the forum. We have a dealer in our area that still has 98 in stock so you might get lucky if you have your dealer do a regional inventory check. I bought a dozen about 6 months ago, just because it is no longer available through normal channels. This is the best injector cleaner, bar none, just hard to find for a decent price. Available on ebay but the prices are absurd.
 
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