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Discussion Starter #1
My 2013 has been giving a P003A error regularly for several months (boost control position not learned). I can clear the code but it comes back after a few days. The dealer says the vanes are likely stuck and they want about $2000 just to tear it apart and see if that is the problem. I thought I would do it myself and now I am wondering if that is a good idea as it appears removing the downpipes and up-pipes may be much more difficult than I thought. I have a Haynes Techbook but it only goes to 2012 and it appears the pipes can be removed without too much difficulty on those earlier models. I have the ALLDATAdiy repair guide and it recommends dropping the tranny to get the downpipe out for a 2013 but I am not sure that will help much. One site says the downpipe can be lifted up and around the turbo, but there doesn't seem to be enough room to do that. Other threads talk about removing the cab. I am sure not going to do that. Is this indeed going to be very, very difficult? I have much of the "easy" stuff off but am hesitant to tackle the pipes. I can't find a thread or site where someone has replaced a 2013 turbo. Any advice is appreciated.
 

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You don't need to drop the tranny to remove the downpipe and uppipes but it's tight at the firewall and you'll likely have marked up knuckles when you're done. Lifting the cab off the frame is the way to go if possible.

I had to replace my stock turbo with a new one due to blown seals, and if I didn't have a hoist and shop to use I'd would have handed the job off to a diesel shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You don't need to drop the tranny to remove the downpipe and uppipes but it's tight at the firewall and you'll likely have marked up knuckles when you're done. Lifting the cab off the frame is the way to go if possible.

I had to replace my stock turbo with a new one due to blown seals, and if I didn't have a hoist and shop to use I'd would have handed the job off to a diesel shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks SheeB. Is yours a 2012? It seems the 2103 is quite different? I have a shop but sure not willing to lift my crewcab off.
1075914
 

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No, '13 is the same as a '12.

My truck had the EGR removed, so it was alot easier to work around back there.

If you are going to do it yourself, look into buying a "top side creeper" and save your front side of your body from leaning over.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yah, I am a bit sore today from bending over. I was re-reading some links and it appears the down pipe and up pipes just need to be unbolted from the turbo but not removed from the truck. Thus I think I understand that I don't need to mess with the passenger side manifold bolts, but the drivers side manifold bolts may need to be removed to access oil line. I will dig a bit deeper into the truck tomorrow. Thanks for the tips. Looks like I am stuck at home with this COVID stuff so this gives me something to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The downpipe did come out rather easily through the fender well. The further I go with this the more I realize that this configuration is quite different than the 2012, and with everything that comes stock from the factory I still have significant work to do to get all the components in front of the turbo removed, plus the oil drain and up pipes seem very, very difficult to get to. Can't invite any young guys to come help me with this COVID pandemic, so I may replace the VGT Boost Solenoid since it is "easy" to get to now, button it back up and run some Revive through it. If it still is giving me problems I will drop it off somewhere.
 
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