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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone ever use the amazon mouth piece on their lly? I’m a very budget conscious guy and the ease and timely ness of a bolt on is ever increasing as my kids get more and more into extra curricular sports and events
 

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Anything's better than the stock inlet duct.
Price point is 'bout the same as the LBZ/LMM inlet duct (where you cut back the intake tube to fit).

But I don't see a provision for the Turbo Resonator to attach, just the port for the CCV hose. Some people leave 'em off and plug the port, if that's your thing.

However, you could still mount the resonator for the 'looks', utilizing the T-30 bolt in the front.

https://www.amazon.com/Manifold-Int...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

When ya go to swap it out, and start struggling with the crankcase vent hose, be careful not to damage/stretch that large white wire that goes over the top of it, to the turbo sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What about the egr delete? Do I lose my grid heater?
 

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Depends on what method you use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I got an eBay kit looks identical to the sinister kit with the blue pipe which is what I assume would get rid of the grid heater. I’m on Cape Cid and would think I need the grid heater.
 

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I would be VERY leery of the cheap EGR kits on fleabay.

Mainly, how you deal with the up pipe. I can almost guarantee that the block plate support tab in that kit will not line up properly for the bolt to fit.

Misaligned, when the bellows expands, it won't move in a straight line, but lateral out and blow the bellows. If the holes don't line up EXACTLY, don't pry and force it over.
Removing the up pipe at that point....has it's own can of worms that could be.

Backup Tip;
If the blocker doesn't fit, it is possible to slice off the end of the cooler tube and use it to secure a $10 blocker plate.
It's mount lined up perfectly before the removal and won't need to be forced to fit.

But as far as the grid heater, that's an emission thing to help warm up the engine quicker...after it's already started. Starting without it shouldn't be an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So if doesn’t line up right just chock it and a better kit. That’s ok.
 

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Or...slice off the end and use it instead.
Once you get to that point in the removal process and find out the plate doesn't line up.....(other than repressing urges to kill the kit seller) you'll be looking for a solution, as it will be all apart and no way to seal it up and drive.

A chop saw at that point will look very pleasing.
Just have a backup plan is all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks man! I already have the kit just been trying to decide if it’s worth not having the grid heater.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So to follow up on an old discussion I ordered a ProFab welded up pipe to alleviate the bellows issue. Hope to get it in stalled this week
 
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