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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The hitch on my new Silverado 3500 has the 2” sleeve and that, along with my trailer stinger rattle and bang horribly! There’s lots of anti rattle clamps out there, but I’ve been told that they generally don’t work or quickly bend out of shape.

Are there any recommendations out there for a good reliable clamp or some other system that really works?


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The hitch on my new Silverado 3500 has the 2” sleeve and that, along with my trailer stinger rattle and bang horribly! There’s lots of anti rattle clamps out there, but I’ve been told that they generally don’t work or quickly bend out of shape.

Are there any recommendations out there for a good reliable clamp or some other system that really works?


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I recently added one to my set up. I could only find a 2inch Road Master one before this trip, so I have it between the sleeve and the hitch. Had not issues with it on the 260 mile trip. No banging or movement.
I will probably by a 2.5 inch clamp after this trip, however at this stage, I am a believer.
 

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I've seen some YouTube videos of people drilling a hole into one of the four sides of your hitch box, tapping threads, and screwing a bolt in to provide tension on the receiver and hold it tight. It was more professional than I'm making it sound, but not something I've wanted to do.

So far, I just take the receiver out when I'm not towing, and when towing the tongue weight of the trailer eliminates that rattle but replaces it with others anyway. :)
 

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I've hammered in a wood shim to stiffen it up on my previous truck. For whatever reason the one on my current truck does not rattle.
 

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2017, 2500HD, LTZ, front guard, Duraflap mudguards, Leer bed topper
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I like the ease of removing the hitch and/or stinger.. pull the locking shaft and all slips out.
Jamming stuff between the parts will lock in place, but no longer easy to swap.

If you only use certain hitches, weld additional steel to one side and top. Grind off to “slip-fit” in receiver.

Repeat weld/grind on the hitch, same sides as the sleeve... repeating slip-fit.
 

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If you're willing to leave your ball mount installed most of the time, drill a hole thru the bottom of the hitch mount, through the ball mount (and adapters if applicable), and then put a 1/2" or 5/8" class 8 bolt and lock washer thru the hole with the nut capturing the bolt inside the ball mount. The hole should be drilled about 1/2 way (front to back) through the hitch. Once installed, it is just a matter of removing the bolt/nut and then the ball mount can be removed. I've used this for years and it works well and it's cheap - the cost being a bolt, lock washer, nut, and some of your time.
 
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I like the ease of removing the hitch and/or stinger.. pull the locking shaft and all slips out.
Jamming stuff between the parts will lock in place, but no longer easy to swap.

If you only use certain hitches, weld additional steel to one side and top. Grind off to “slip-fit” in receiver.

Repeat weld/grind on the hitch, same sides as the sleeve... repeating slip-fit.
I agree completely. It is a PITA to remove the anti-rattle every time you want to remove the hitch. I only use mine for my Rock Tamers and to avoid the side-to-side teetering.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I appreciate the replies. I’d thought about a weld bead filed down for a slip fit and while it would help the slop between the 2” insert and the 2-1/2” hitch, it won’t help all the slip between the 2” and stinger. That’s unless I also put beads on the stingers, but I have several.

A friend has just tried the threaded bolt trick but we’re waiting to see if they’ll wear down over time. That’s a lot of force on them going down the road.

I completely agree about it being a PITA to have to use a wrench every time you use a hitch, but that roadmaster does look pretty beefy. I guess it will depend on how bad the rattle bugs me.


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I appreciate the replies. I’d thought about a weld bead filed down for a slip fit and while it would help the slop between the 2” insert and the 2-1/2” hitch, it won’t help all the slip between the 2” and stinger. That’s unless I also put beads on the stingers, but I have several.

A friend has just tried the threaded bolt trick but we’re waiting to see if they’ll wear down over time. That’s a lot of force on them going down the road.

I completely agree about it being a PITA to have to use a wrench every time you use a hitch, but that roadmaster does look pretty beefy. I guess it will depend on how bad the rattle bugs me.


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This is why we can’t have nice things... always welding, grinding..

But we can turn the radio up...
 

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$65 for a u bolt is highway robbery. Hit up your local hardware store and expect to spend $4.00-$5

If your hitch shank is solid, you can drill and tap it and use a bolt rather than a pin. I’ve done it and it worked great.


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I’ve used the clamps and prefer them. Only adds a minute to swapping it in/out. Unfortunately, having a B&W and Rock Tamers now, there is no room for a clamp. The B&W hitch is probably the loosest fit I’ve ever had on a hitch. I’m using one of B&W’s rubber dampeners but if you think a clamp is a pita, try my setup. It it’s the only way to quiet it right now.
 

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I’ve used the clamps and prefer them. Only adds a minute to swapping it in/out. Unfortunately, having a B&W and Rock Tamers now, there is no room for a clamp. The B&W hitch is probably the loosest fit I’ve ever had on a hitch. I’m using one of B&W’s rubber dampeners but if you think a clamp is a pita, try my setup. It it’s the only way to quiet it right now.
I'm not quite understanding why there isn't room for the clamp with a B&W hitch.
 

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I'm not quite understanding why there isn't room for the clamp with a B&W hitch.
Because I have the Rock Tamers mounted on the hitch. I guess the clamp would work if I got a longer U-bolt and flipped the clamp backwards. But there is not enough room behind the RT’s for the u-bolt to sit on the hitch as it’s presently set up. Hence the rubber gasket which I have to compress to get the hitch pin in.
 

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Ever drive an old truck, everything rattles. Enjoy the truck for the truck. Buy a Cadillac or Prius for when not trailering.
 
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