Forgot to mention the check engine light was on. Active codes for 3 of the glow plugs. Otherwise the injector data looked great, fluids look good. Ran and shifted great. We made a deal and I took it home.
First was the 3rd brake light gasket. I figured that was the source of the water on the back corners. It had rained before I went to look at the truck. Ordered a gasket on Amazon that looked the best. Also smoked the lens while I had it off to match the rest of the lights. I later found that was not the only place water was coming in

 

Next I replaced the transmission cooler lines. They had been replaced before but none of the brackets were there and the lines were bent from hitting the steering idler arm. I installed the Deviant Racing 1/2” hose kit. The 10” lift made this job really easy. No drama with the hoses but the Banks air box had to be removed for access and the next problem was found.

 

The PO had NEVER serviced the filter. It was junk to say the least. When I tried to install the new filter it wouldn’t fit. The mouth of the airbox lid where the filter clamps was deformed and now smaller than the new filter. I needed to reshape the opening somehow and reinforce it. A 6” pvc sewer cap worked perfect. I cut a 3/4” ring from the pvc and used my heat gun on the lid to open it back up and fit the pvc. I used some epoxy to bond the pvc to the lid and clamped it until it was cured. Finally, I cleaned the box and tubing, cleaned the MAF and reinstalled everything. It definitely runs better now. On to the next job…

 

Hello and welcome. I dunno, kinda seems like a good contender for a build thread. I'd like to move it there if it's ok with you.

 

Oh, and take some pictures, we love em. You'll have a lot of "help" thrown your way as well. 🤪

 

Too bad so far away that 10" lift would look nice in my 2002 build. Nice looking truck. How many miles?

 

Yeah, I wasn’t sure where to post this or how much detail to put in to it. I’ll post some more pictures too.
The PO said the lift was installed in 2016. Cognito kit. The ride is actually really good, it’s just too much for my family to climb up in to lol. And the toy hauler is 8000lb empty.
I’m almost done with the interior so there’s lots more to post.

 

Truck has 162k on it

 

@JXsedan ,
You're all set in the build thread area. It's your post, so you post as much or as little as you want.
I will say that the rest of the community here loves the details. If you need advice, the guys here will be happy to oblige, and the more of the picture you paint, the better the input you'll get.
Sometimes too it can be used vent about the process. We've all had a bolt snap at some point in our shade tree mechanic profession. 😉
All and all, welcome to the forum, and good luck in your journey. You're in a good spot to receive real, qualified help should you need it.

 

Nice truck! welcome to the forum.

 

Thanks for the welcomes. I actually have an ‘04 as well but it’s a 6.0 gas. I looked at diesels when I bought that truck 7 years ago but didn’t need it then. When we bought the toy hauler 2 years ago the mfr said it weighed 6050lbs. The scale at work showed 7900 with absolutely nothing in it. Started looking for a Duramax then and after 1 trip to Michigan last fall I had to find one. I strongly considered doing the swap on my truck too.

 

I think the next thing I looked at on the truck was the steering. The steering wheel could rock freely a 1/4 turn L-R. I figured one of the heim ends on the tie rods was wasted so I had my wife turn the wheel bac n forth while I looked at everything. Nothing was moving, only the steering shaft. Turned out to be the pinch bolt that locks the steering shaft to the gearbox was not fully tightened. “Wonder how long that’s been loose?” Luckily it tightened up and seems good now. But I did notice a small spot on the ground. And the radio didn’t work.

 

So, the radio. Pioneer dvd touchscreen. When I originally test drove the truck the radio was blasting away. I quickly shut it off and never looked at it again. Now it’s all static. Then I realize there is no antenna mast, only the base. The steering wheel radio controls don’t work either. I picked up an antenna on a trip to the junkyard but it didn’t help. Pulled the head unit to make sure it was connected, it was. But they didn’t use an interface to connect the steering wheel controls. And the cd/dvd drive doesn’t work. Another Amazon order was made. I also made a list of parts needed remove the lift and put it back to stock. I had a few days off so I made a trip to Hicksville to pick it all up. They were great and got me everything I needed.

 

...I had a few days off so I made a trip to Hicksville to pick it all up...

The fact that you can just "make a trip to Hicksville" alone makes me jealous.

 

I should clarify that this all started in April so I’m condensing a lot. The air filter and box repair took a week between finding it, ordering a filter, seeing that it doesn’t fit and 2 trips to Menards trying different things to fix it. I did get some parts from the local U-Pull It but they only had 1500’s. Hicksville was worth the 5hr drive to get really nice parts all in one stop. I also grabbed a few things for my 04 and parts for a friend’s 05.
Originally I planned on the interior last. I would just clean it best I could and tackle that next year. My wife had other plans. Interior was first on her list. The seats had to be recovered and I figured if I’m pulling everything out I’ll replace the carpeting too. We decided to go with darker materials and she ordered some samples.
I was looking at leveling kits and 2-3” lifts too. I still needed all the stock stuff when I take off the 10” kit but wanted it to at least be leveled or up an inch or 2 from stock. Fast forward a bit and I bought the Zone 3” kit withFox shocks. It’s all still in the boxes waiting.

 

Welcome from another hostage in the peoples republik of Illinoistan. Cool build

I'm in the north west.

 

You may need to weld a bracket back on for the front diff. My 2008 when i put in the 6" RCX lift, i had to cut some bracketry to bolt the front in. Can't remember exactly which one. Thinking for mounting the front diff. You're may be different though. the 3" lift is better than a level kit. My 10 came with a level kit and rides pretty darn stiff. I'll swap some day for a 4 or 6" suspension lift.

Yes great build you are doing it right!

 

Exactly right about the bracket being cut off of the lower left crossmember mounting, behind the lower control arm mounting pocket. When I called Hicksville they had me text a few pictures so they could see exactly what I was looking for. But the Zone lift also cuts that bracket off too so I guess it’s a spare part now. I’m also very lucky to still have my 04 for reference. Once the gray truck is done I’ll sell the 04. Hopefully soon as this is really stretching the bank account. On a side note the reason Im posting so much is being home with Covid. Normally I’m working 65hr/week fixing garbage trucks.

 

Exactly, if simply replace with a smaller lift you shouldn't need that bracket. That's only if going for stock diff placement.

Oh man that sucks, hope you get well soon!

 

Oh man that sucks, hope you get well soon!

Thank you. Luckily it hasn’t been too bad for the kiddos.

 

 

Pic of the 04, new truck hooked up to the toy hauler and squatting 4-5”, underside of the new truck.

 

looking good ~
I fixed up an 05 that was smashed all the way to the windshield.

 

Nice work, truck looks great! Is that pinstriping painted freehand?

 

yes,
by Pilsbury in Milford Ma

 

Just some odds n ends to fill in before the interior overhaul. Random parts that I knew were missing when I bought the truck and others I found along the way. The Left front inner fender was missing, the right side is damaged. There is no plastic liner behind the driver’s door panel and the rubber bumper was missing from the bottom corner. The passenger mirror hinge cover was gone. One of the hood rubber pads on the fender was missing. Most of this I found at the local junkyard. I also removed the grill insert, looks better without it.

 

I’ll finish the story with the stereo and related parts quick. My wife ordered the new head unit without me knowing so that was a nice surprise. I had to order a new mounting kit because the one in the truck was broken, and the new interface and wiring to connect the steering wheel controls. Since the stereo is a touch screen it can connect to a back-up camera, so I ordered a cheap one from Amazon.
Most of this was done with all of the interior out of the truck, even the headliner was down for another reason, so the wiring was fairly straight forward. I prepped the new adapter harness and ran the camera wiring and microphone through the dash to the driver’s side. Fed the microphone up the A-pillar and across the headliner to the center. The camera wiring down past the fuse box, kick panel, and out the floor next to the parking brake. The head unit mounting kit is straight forward The hard part is connecting the wires and tucking them safely behind while installing the stereo.

 

Next to finish the back-up camera. I wrapped ran an additional 16ga wire along the camera wire for key-on power and wrapped them with split loom. At the back, the signal wire in the camera cable and the camera ground are run up to the reverse light. Wires are spliced in, soldered and heat-shrinked. The power wire connects to the camera power plug, soldered and sealed also. The other end of the power wire is connected in the fuse panel with a fuse tap. This provides key-on/ignition power to the camera so I can view it anytime through the stereo. The signal from the reverse light runs up with the camera cable to signal the stereo to automatically show the back-up camera when in reverse.