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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was putting new shocks on today and noticed some oily residue on my passenger side rear axle just inside the end of the axle. Starts up high on the front side and looks like it’s weeping downward. Blown axle seal is what I’m thinking. Anyone concur or have any other recommendations? Thanks!



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I suggest you change the bearings in that one side along with a new 2 piece seal. Double and triple check that you get the inner hub to seal ring off when you change it.

52 ft lb to set the bearings and seals, back off then finger tight only. Did 3 on the 04 before I did bearings and fixed the problem. I think I had it to under 1 hr. No need to pull the caliper off the bracket, just pull the whole bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I suggest you change the bearings in that one side along with a new 2 piece seal. Double and triple check that you get the inner hub to seal ring off when you change it.

52 ft lb to set the bearings and seals, back off then finger tight only. Did 3 on the 04 before I did bearings and fixed the problem. I think I had it to under 1 hr. No need to pull the caliper off the bracket, just pull the whole bracket.
I ordered inner and outer bearings and an inner seal. All AC Delco stuff. So I’m confused at the “finger tight” portion. You’re telling me that final torquing is finger tight? On what fasteners? Thanks!


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Final torque on the bearing nut (it takes a special socket) will be finger tight (little to no preload on the conical bearings) without using the socket. The 52 ft*lb is to set the inner seal as its a 2 piece design and the rubber liner to hub takes a little to get it on correctly.

Lube up the hub before sliding the hub on to make it easier to get the seal in place. Before stabbing the axle in, pour in as much oil as possible to the hub to pre lube the bearings as it takes a while for the oil to flow from the center out to the hubs. I also soak the inner side of the 2 piece seal in oil (to help it survive the initial movement) and twist the inner portion by hand (this will also help explain the 2 piece thing). Again double and triple check that the inner ring of the seal comes off the hub. It looks like its part of the hub, but its not. If its stuck on there, use a flat drive punch and a hammer to stretch the ring by placing the punch on the seal ring and striking it lightly with the hammer. This will make the ring "grow" as it stretches the metal a little.
 
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If you’re going to put new bearings in it, do yourself a favor. “Lightly pack” them with bearing grease or soak them in gear oil before putting them in. It takes longer than you’d think for oil to get out there. I’ve seen new/dry bearings burn up before because of lack of lube during assembly.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, makes sense. I’ll have to pick up that special socket. Thanks for the input guys!


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Help needed!
I got everything off (rotor, clip,castle nut, retaining pin) now the fricken hub won’t slide off. There has to be something more holding it on. Every video I’ve seen shows them sliding the hub off after the castle but is off. Most videos all show different style parking brakes than mine which allow a pry bar to be inserted up top to assist in getting the hub off. Ive banged Pryed and pulled the crap out of this hub and it ain’t coming off. What am I missing?

2011 Silverado 2500 LTZ


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Disregard, I lost my $#!t and tore my brake shoes off like a complete heathen and was able to get a pry bar in there to get that POS inner seal broke free.


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Unless your parking brake is worn badly (like left applied) the shoes should not have been holding it. You could have used a dead blow hammer or block of wood and tapped the back side of the flange. The seal was probably holding it (means inner ring was stuck to hub). Hopefully you got it all apart and back together with no issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Unless your parking brake is worn badly (like left applied) the shoes should not have been holding it. You could have used a dead blow hammer or block of wood and tapped the back side of the flange. The seal was probably holding it (means inner ring was stuck to hub). Hopefully you got it all apart and back together with no issues.
The rotor was off. It was finding an opening to pry from that was the issue. I’ve never messed with drum brakes and didn’t know how to get the shoes off. I eventually figured it out and got everything done. Yes, inner seal was stuck pretty bad. I’m doing the driver side this weekend and I guarantee it’ll go smoother since I’m now familiar with what’s going on back there. First time was rough though!


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I did mine last fall for the same type of leak. Was not too bad, spent more time looking for the special socket to put things back together. I would recommend when topping off the diff oil to run it for a week or two and check it again. It takes a bit for the oil to work down the axle tube and the level will drop down a bit. Actually after I filled to diff oil I jacked the axle up to let the oil go down to the replaced assy to make sure it got enough oil the new bearings. Still added a bit a week later. Dean
 

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I jacked up the opposing side as far as the floor jack would go, let it sit for a couple of hours, then lowered and re topped off everything. Someone once told me it takes a while for the oil to run down the tube to the end. Jacking it up helps the process. i also add as much oil to the hub as possible before it runs out before final push and sealing of the axle. Bearings and seals need oil to live on startup.
 

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Mine is in the shop for axel seal leaking. Under warranty. ‘19 with 50k.


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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Mine is in the shop for axel seal leaking. Under warranty. ‘19 with 50k.


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That ship sailed awhile ago, mines an ‘11. I don’t mind the work. Helps me learn about the truck and I like saving the coin. Of course a warranty would be better.


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That ship sailed awhile ago, mines an ‘11. I don’t mind the work. Helps me learn about the truck and I like saving the coin. Of course a warranty would be better.


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Yeah, a bit if a learning experience the first time. Now ready to go again if the other side ever starts leaking. Really not that bad. Much better for pulling the axle than having to take the cover off for the old C clip designs of the old days. Dean
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yeah, a bit if a learning experience the first time. Now ready to go again if the other side ever starts leaking. Really not that bad. Much better for pulling the axle than having to take the cover off for the old C clip designs of the old days. Dean
No doubt!, I bought seals/bearings for the other side as I’ve replaced both front hub assemblies and the one rear. I figured might as well be ready for the last one standing. I got a blind hole bearing puller for a front dif bearing that I think will speed up the process even more. I’ll report back once I try it. Has to be better than a hammer and punch for bearing removal.


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No doubt!, I bought seals/bearings for the other side as I’ve replaced both front hub assemblies and the one rear. I figured might as well be ready for the last one standing. I got a blind hole bearing puller for a front dif bearing that I think will speed up the process even more. I’ll report back once I try it. Has to be better than a hammer and punch for bearing removal.


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For bearing race R and R this is what I use. Works great. Dean

 
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