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Discussion Starter #1
Ok started changing ball joints and all I got to was the brake caliper off. my question is what tools do I need??? like what size what kinda snap ring plyers and so on. all I have is a small 200 piece craftsman set and it isnt working out for me so far. if anyone lives in des moines(im in waukee) and would allow me to borrow tools that would be greatly appreciated to. Thanks. I got MOOG ball joints and I am doing all 4
 

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They need to be pressed in and out.
 

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I have the press tool but dont I have to remove the nut on the ball joint itself? also what size is the nut on the mount for the caliper I have the caliper off but cant get the other piece off to remove the rotor
 

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^^exactly what i needed thank you! now anyone know about snap ring plyers do I need to get a certain size or can I just grab one
 

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A standard set should work just fine. If you need any additional parts let us know, we'd be glad to help.

Good luck with the rebuild, check everything twice.
 

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Thanks just found out today all four are bad and the shop wanted 800. I just replaced my outer tie rods and now gotta do ball joints hopefully with the socket and snap ring plyers it will be smooth sailing. Thanks again this forum has helped me out more then once thats for sure
 

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Thanks just found out today all four are bad and the shop wanted 800. I just replaced my outer tie rods and now gotta do ball joints hopefully with the socket and snap ring plyers it will be smooth sailing. Thanks again this forum has helped me out more then once thats for sure
Well how'd it go. I just did mine. Well have one side done and the other one stripped down. I stopped tonight because the Moog lower ball joint says mount to inside on the rubber grease cup. Well if I mount it the way it says te grease zerk will be pointing in the opposite direction than it needs to be. The A-frame has an indention where the grease zerk should set to make it easier to grease the joint. I'm wondering if I have the wrong part or if it really has to be mounted with that side of the joing inboard. The top joints I know are specific in how they need to be mounted but don't know about the lowers.

Not trying to steal your thread. BTW you will need a good strong mid-sized pickle fork to break the spindle from the ball joing shaft. You also will need a torque wrench to make sure you have everything torqued down correctly.

Russ
 

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mine were the same way. I installed it as it said and just used a grinder to make a little indentation so I could get the grease gun on it while installed.

as far as snapring pliers..i didn't use any. I am guessing you might need them for the uppers? I put cogito UCAs on and didn't mess with the uppers...just pulled the a-arm.
 

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mine were the same way. I installed it as it said and just used a grinder to make a little indentation so I could get the grease gun on it while installed.

as far as snapring pliers..i didn't use any. I am guessing you might need them for the uppers? I put cogito UCAs on and didn't mess with the uppers...just pulled the a-arm.
Thanks, I've done some reading and found out that the "mount inboard is just indicating where the pressure relief is on the rubber boot. This is where grease will come out if you over fill or where old grease will come out when you lube the joint later. you want any grease as far away from your disk pads as possible so "mount inboard" is stamped on the grease boot to achieve that. If you look at the boot you can tell that is why it says to mount that side inboard.

I'm pretty sure I could have gotten my grease gun on it even facing forward. So here is the easy fix that I just did, very simple compaired to busting loose those caliper bracket bolts and busting the lower ball joints with the pickle fork. Take a flat blade screwdriver and gently pry the grease boot off of the ball joint turn it 180 degrees and reinstall. I used channel lock pliers to gently squeez it back down flush and not puncture the boot. Worked like a champ and now the grease zerk faces the depression in like the original and overflow of the boot is inboard. Hope this helps someone else.

Russ
 

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well worked on it for 4 days and cudnt get the spindle to move a inch its my DD so I ended up taking it to the shop. sucked but needed it fixed
 

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Damm bro get beer and get to my shop , done in 2hrs and set the alingment wish I was closer to the world, some shit I could help on , pay it foreward you know
 

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Finished mine up this morning. I'm fortunate that it's not my daily driver. Now that I have done it once I could get it done in 3 - 4 hours. The lower BJ's are a PAIN to bust loose. It took 20 - 30 minutes of pickle fork hammering to get them to bust loose. I found that if you go at it from the rear of the truck forward with the pickle fork that it works better. I used a 5lb slege to bust them after working the pickle fork in with a 1lb sledge.

MAN did it ride so much better today though. The lowers were probably OK the uppers were more than way shot.
 
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