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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Firstly, not sure where this should go, so if it needs to be moved let me know. Secondly, I haven't logged on in a while so I cant remember if our accounts have our truck details linked, so I will put all relevant info to my truck here:

05 LLY, just had an engine swap done. Batteries were replaced originally last fall. No issues through the winter or up till the engine swap. Has multiple lightbars/LED pods and other LED accessories, including rocklights (I know, horrible) all of which have been there and had no issues for the past year. Aftermarket radio and subs. Gauge tuner. Phone and accessory chargers from cig lighter. Has an EGR delete and lift and all of that, but I dont really know if thats all relevant.

Off the bat, I am not blaming the shop. They are the last party I will blame in this, and I will take it back to get them to fix the issue if it turns out to be their fault. I am trying to see if this is a 'natural', over time issue or something that I did.

ISSUE: I got my truck back from a shop in Georgia after about 4 months of work for an engine swap. The mechanic told me that they were having issues keeping her charged and he thought it might be due to the metal shop roof, dont know if thats actually a thing. I took her home and then went back to school in Nashville with no issues, besides the fact that my rocklights would not connect to the app. A week or so after I found the issue with the lights, the positive and negative wires were in the opposite locations, negative wire on positive terminal, positive wire on body ground. The shop had told me they did not touch my batteries and left them connected to the truck, just disconnecting the block grounds. I fixed it and moved on. Then a week or so later I began having 4wd issues. I cleaned the ground on the driver side frame, under the door and after a little while the issue went away. Then at the beginning of October, my truck was dead one morning, I got it jumped, and had the batteries tested and they were bad and I had them replaced under warranty. (I have the highest cranking amps batteries AAA offers). The truck was fine for another month or so, and then I drained the batteries with the glow plugs. Called AAA and used my last service request of the year to get it jumped. Then 2 days later, it was dead again. Had it jumped and went to Advance Auto where they said my batteries tested good, as well as my alternator. Turned over the next day without incident. Another 2 days goes by and its dead again. I am at a loss for what might be causing this, because everything was fine last year, the only new edition would be my radio, but I was fine from for the month before and after the engine swap. According to my gauge tuner and the cluster, I am between 13 and 14 volts when its running. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 

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Robert I'm just throwing this out there.

I have had two dead battery issues with my 2007.5 truck when all else checks good.

One was the radio amplifier. It was randomly coming on when the truck was stopped. Had the appropriate module reflashed to correct.

The other was with the passenger side battery going dead which pulled down the driver side battery. The problem was the negative battery cable clamp for the passenger side battery. The clamp looked good, everything was clean and tight, it actually ohmed out good. Using a vom I back probed the wire at the clamp, noting the reading, then checked the voltage at the battery post. There was a voltage drop. Then holding the clamp and wife starting the truck I felt an inrush of heat in the clamp. Installed a new clamp and all has been well for a couple of years.
 

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Locate an pull your fuse for the radio and see if the problem goes away. Aftermarket radios are often the cause of parasitic drain. If that doesn't work, there are many videos on Youtube about locating parasitic drain. After the truck's electrical system is 'sleeping', my preferred method is using a volt meter across each fuse to see if there is voltage present. Voltage means that there is a current draw and somewhere on that circuit is the problem. Wiring charts available at GMUPFITTER.COM will help you to determine what devices are on the suspect circuit. And there may be more than one bad circuit, so keep on going until your draw is something in the neighborhood of 25 milliamps.
 
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