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Discussion Starter #1
What do all of you use ? Ive tried the rattle cans and the tractor paint , but it isnt working well . I read in some truck book (8-lug,diesel power,4-wheel,etc) about a 2 step type of primer and paint . but I cant remember what it is .
If anyone can think of it be great or if you all have some thing that works really good please post it ,and may be some pics also
THANKS.
 

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mines not rusting???? ive never done anythign to it..
linex the whole bottom!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
isnt to late to do Linex with all the rust ? plus lots of $$$ to do the bottom ?
(which I'm lacking) the stuff I read about was a 2 step process thats put on with a spray gun. the first step turns the rust black and is suppoesd to seal it and the second can be sprayed any color you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Home of the rust belt . near Buffalo NY.
 

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Get a good heavy duty wire wheel, and take that GM tar crap off. The rust is not as bad looking as what mine looked like before I grinded the tar off and sprayed some bed liner "it was in a can" on it. The flaking tar make it look worse than it actually is:drink
 

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Discussion Starter #9
the Rust bullet looks promising . any more good stuff like that out there?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ive been using a wire wheel for the last 5-6 years to get the tar off.
 

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The product you want is POR-15. It is meant for rusted frames and such. You can get it different colors. Just Google POR-15 and you will find it. Mine rusts alot too being from Wisconsin and the amount of salt they use here. I need to do this to my truck this summer.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I do believe thats the stuff I read about and Im going to give them a call .
thanks guys. but if any one has any more ideas please post them.
 

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I sell the por 15 and can assure you it works as long as all directions are followed. It comes in gloss and semi gloss black, clear and silver as these are the only colors that can be made from non porous pigments. You have to remove all of the tar undercoating. You have to start on clen steel, it can be rusty just has to be free of any undercoating, paint or grease. They make a waterbased degreaser called marine clean that works wonders, next step is to etch the steel with metal ready. Its an acid based etcher that gives the por something to stick to. Once the por15 has been applied you can either leave it as is or paint it. If you leave it unpainted and any part of it is exposed to sunlight it will get bleached because the por has no resistance to uv exposure. Let me know if you need any other help with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
thank you, I will do that . its going to take a while to get the tar off, lol
 

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Rust Bullet is excellent - used the silver on a flatbed trailer several years ago, looks the same today as it did then after sitting outside all that time. I have no experience with the black - it's a gloss paint, currently runs about $47 a quart, and please use a respirator with it, especially if you are crawling around under the truck where there's no air movement. Don't know about that sort of thing with POR-15, but a lot of auto/truck restorers swear by it - price on the website is $44 a quart. I just finished using Eastwood Rust Encapsulator on the differential housing after seeing how bad it was beginning to look while I was installing the new diff cover. We'll see how this works out, but the aroma was bearable, and it normally is $36 a quart - managed to pick some up on a one-day sale flyer for about $25.
I have plenty left to use on the already-rusty caliper brackets, as soon as I get up the energy to pull the duals!

Chuck Hovonick
 

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The product you want is POR-15. It is meant for rusted frames and such. You can get it different colors. Just Google POR-15 and you will find it. Mine rusts alot too being from Wisconsin and the amount of salt they use here. I need to do this to my truck this summer.
X2 on that! POR-15 works great and easy to brush on. You can get a prep kit to degrease and then apply right over the rust. I used it on my '74 Bronco and looks great. Make sure you wear rubber gloves and long sleeves though, or you'll have a hena tattoo for about a week and it won't scrub off...I found out the hard way when I got some on my forehead:rof.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
looks like the scrapers and wire wheels are going to get a work out ,and I better buy some good jack stands . thanks
 

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Has anyone tried using something like herculiner? I know its not a great bedliner like the Line-x or rhino but for a frame does anyone know if it works decent or not?
 
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