I know you don't want to rebuild but due to your towing environment you might want to consider a BatMoWheel. Faster spool up, better pressure curve at the bottom end, and lower EGTs. Here is a link. I'm in a smog state so "stock-looking" is important. It might be important to you too if DSP gave the guberment your address.

 

If a rebuild will work I would go that route but seeing how it's been on the truck for so long I don't know if something else may wear out on it. I'm not to knowledgeable about turbos and what I would need for a rebuild, I would go that route knowing it would work fine and save some mulah$$...
Thank goodness they did away with the smog nonsense here in Boise last year so by by egr.

 

Call and talk with them and they will give you any info you need to know

DDP LLY/LBZ/LMM Stage 2 66mm Billet VVT Turbocharger

DDP LLY/LBZ/LMM Stage 2 66mm Turbocharger

dansdieselperformance.com

 

This is what was in the glove compartment when I bought the truck several years ago. Don't now anything about it but I will start researching it..

 

A rebuild is not as simple as R&R the compressor. With that many miles on it the complete vane system, turbine, and bearings should be replaced. IOW, buy a quality rebuild and then substitute the compressor with the BatMoWheel. It will look totally stock. Otherwise it's an aftermarket, or Garrett upgrade.

 

copy that... any recommendations as there are sooo many was to go. Plus being new to the turbo world...

 

MBMCH!

Damn, Christmas eve already, where has the time gone? Oh yeah, some dumb ass decided to build a system in the truck...

Almost done now, just need to cover the floor and roof with fatmat, install a control knob in the dash and put it all back together. I'll be upgrading the speakers next month, need a break from the truck and get back to office work, orders have arrived and I need to start makin' money again.

Some pics of the install in the back:

View attachment 1126372

View attachment 1126373


This was all I got done yesterday, worked right up till 6PM, a good 10 hours of routing wires, laying fatmat down, creating 4awg cables for the 2 amps, building an amp board out of some hpde board from a sign job I had, as well as packing the C pillars with fatmat and thinsulate.

Sure does sound good back there now! No cheap, thin metal sound from the rear wall anymore, and the flappy vents are all quieted down with covers made out of thermozite, left open on the sides so they still operate but are muffled.

Gonna tackle the rear floor right now, should be quick since its relatively flat with not a lot of protrusions. Unbolt the seats, lay them back, do the floor, roll them back into place and bolt 'em back down.

Really wanna take the truck for a ride to see just how much quieter it is with the doors and rear wall done, but I'm gonna wait till everything's done...

Here is a good video of a turbo rebuild for a LBZ stock turbo.

 

oh man this is great, Thanks

 

I have the Spoologic wheel and rebuild kit. The stock turbo appeared to work just fine with my desires for towing, city and highway cruising. I have to thank you for turning me on to this. Makes it a lot easier than spending hours hunting for it.

 

Did I miss it somewhere or why do you think you need a new turbo?
It doesn’t seem like you’re trying to make a lot of power or anything, so depending on what you’re wanting to spend, a cheetah would be my choice. But anything comparable will do nicely. A stock replacement is also an option if it’s affordable and available

 

Did I miss it somewhere or why do you think you need a new turbo?
It doesn’t seem like you’re trying to make a lot of power or anything, so depending on what you’re wanting to spend, a cheetah would be my choice. But anything comparable will do nicely. A stock replacement is also an option if it’s affordable and available

it has over 200,000 miles on it, I think it's time for a rebuild. I really don't want to spend a ton of dough if I don't need to. I have a spoologic rebuild kit and comp wheel. I don't use it daily but when I do it's for towing, around town and the highway usually for picking up stuff. I'm not looking for major HP. Also looking into getting a Edge CTS3. I have the hand held when I got the EFI Live several years ago buit would like to upgrade...

 

I’ve had a couple different trucks with over 300k on them with no turbo issues or any reason to mess with them. If it isn’t showing any issue, why mess with it?
Nine years ago I bought an LLY with 305k on it, and it was well over 500k last I knew and still had the original untouched turbo on it. And my last LBZ I sold with 300k and still had the factory turbo on it.

 

thats my other consideration, "if it's not broke don't fix it"

 

Yes do not try and fix what is not broke. 278k on factory turbo here with no issues.

 

Don't it need be balanced on a rebuild? Or just if you swap wheels?

 

From what I have seen you do not need to balance from a rebuild.

 

. . . .I tow trailers here and there, have to drive thru the mountains in Idaho as well, some times pulling a trailer, 2000lbs to 7000lbs.

"if it ain't broke, don't fix it" . . . makes sense sometimes but is dependant on your environment. When I'm taking off on a 15hr. flight over water to NZ I'm kinda glad the FAA replacement policy is based on hours of service regardless how pristeen a part appears. Driving the kids to school or navigating 10-15 miles from home, who cares! What is the cost and inconvenience of a failure? But look what you wrote and ask the same question in the mountains of Idaho. It's an insurance policy and its a useless cost . . . until you need it! Millions of homes in Calif don't have earthquake insurance . . . until its paid for!! LOL. Your truck has a 1/4 million miles on it and "may" go another 250k. What is "peace of mind" worth . . . it differs for everyone.

The thread started as looking for improvement in the towing situation. There are better than stock alternatives but all require either complete turbo replacement or R&R of the compressor. If you are going to the pain and suffering of replacing the compressor it's rather foolish to not clean up the turbine and replace a bearing. YMMV

 

"if it ain't broke, don't fix it" . . . makes sense sometimes but is dependant on your environment. When I'm taking off on a 15hr. flight over water to NZ I'm kinda glad the FAA replacement policy is based on hours of service regardless how pristeen a part appears. Driving the kids to school or navigating 10-15 miles from home, who cares! What is the cost and inconvenience of a failure? But look what you wrote and ask the same question in the mountains of Idaho. It's an insurance policy and its a useless cost . . . until you need it! Millions of homes in Calif don't have earthquake insurance . . . until its paid for!! LOL. Your truck has a 1/4 million miles on it and "may" go another 250k. What is "peace of mind" worth . . . it differs for everyone.

The thread started as looking for improvement in the towing situation. There are better than stock alternatives but all require either complete turbo replacement or R&R of the compressor. If you are going to the pain and suffering of replacing the compressor it's rather foolish to not clean up the turbine and replace a bearing. YMMV

I have the rebuild kit minus the turbin, I won't be driving it for a while. After giving it some thought I think I'm going to go on the safe side and pull it this way I can take a good look at what else is going on behind there, perhaps replace the stock Y bridge while I'm at it..

 

when it rains it pours, all in one day. My 02 1/2 ton chevy blew a head gasket, the 08 Xterra tossed b1 o2 sensor code and my beloved LBZ just blew the up pipe belows driving down from McCall pulling a trailer loaded with lumber... Which one to fix first...?!?!? Xterra....

 

. . . my beloved LBZ just blew the up pipe belows driving down from McCall pulling a trailer loaded with lumber.

Your word "beloved" kinda answers your question in my book. Otherwise, choose the one with the least amount of effort!

 

Yikes well, you can only go up from here!