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Guys looking for trailers, get the torsion axles. They tow and ride so much better. I have a dream coach horse trailer with 2 8000lb torsion axels and an old Hoosier stock trailer with 2 3500lb torsion axels, no hopping, skipping etc, they both pull much better than any thing with springs.
 

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Guys looking for trailers, get the torsion axles. They tow and ride so much better. I have a dream coach horse trailer with 2 8000lb torsion axels and an old Hoosier stock trailer with 2 3500lb torsion axels, no hopping, skipping etc, they both pull much better than any thing with springs.
All true, until you run the trailer over a curb when loaded. All the weight goes on the one wheel/spindle, with no transfer to the rear axle. Bent spindle/axle. I know, you’re an excellent driver and would never run over a curb........then you are one in a billion! Torsion axles do have their advantages, but also their disadvantages.
 

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TRAILER SPRING FAILURE ISSUE - SUGGESTING AIR BAGS TO REDUCE LOAD ON SPRINGS cont.

me to transport my '38 Packard V-12 ( dry weight 5,600 lbs) That data plate says as to "ratings"..... "cargo not to exceed 5568 lbs. !


Damn good thing you didn’t load that car up, you would have been 32lbs overweight and we’d have been forced to call the weight police on yourself. Coulda kilt half the county >:)
 

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2013 Chevrolet 3500 crew cab extended bed dual rear wheel
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guys looking for trailers, get the torsion axles. They tow and ride so much better..
damn right ! If you can afford it, only way to go !
 

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2013 Chevrolet 3500 crew cab extended bed dual rear wheel
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So...no pics?
+ + + + + +
Wrong - I noted in the above post that the air bag manufacturer has detailed photos, both of the air bags themselves, and of the mounting hardware, on their site.

As for my own installation, as I noted, nothing interesting as to how the air bags bolt on to the axles - again, photos clearly show what that looks like on any similar round axle as well as mine.

As for the brackets that transfer loads from the TOP of the air-bags to my trailer's frame - not practical to get a good clear photo - (unless I rolled my trailer over on its side....!). No brain surgery or rocket science there - just used "off-the-shelf" steel channel purchased from my local hardware store - a few minutes with my arc welder, carbide blade, hand-drill & bench drill press was all that was involved.
 

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Actually, I think this was a long time coming.

Since the beginning of this trip, I'd noticed that that the equalization linkage never sat quite flat, despite the trailer being pretty level front-to-back. I knew the axles had equal load (due to the fact that it has an equalization system as well as having weighed the trailer axles separately at a CAT scale) and never really gave it much thought. But after replacing the spring back, the equalization linkage is completely level. Here is a picture of the driver side (same side as the spring pack failure) about 8000 miles prior to the spring collapse (this was taken in Little Rock right after I decided to replace all four trailer tires in response to a blowout of one of the four-year-old OEM garbage tires that were on it up until that point). Compare this to the picture in the first post. I think that one of the leafs had been cracked for a long time, and over the 9000+ miles we put on it in under a month the increased load on the remaining leafs caused a cascading failure that culminated in that mess on the side of I-80/90. From now on I'll always inspect my leaf springs and associated hardware before heading out on a long road trip.


Dang, that looks a lot like my old Sprinter 5th wheel.

Glad to see you got it all fixed up. Trailer problems suck! If you ever want to experience real trailer problems, start backing them down into saltwater on a regular basis! But, I guess driving on salted roads is almost as good.

There's still good people on the planet. Nice to see examples!
 
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
@JimmyD and @blythkd1, I know we've discussed this in the past so I figured I'd tag you guys on this. I just put two sets (one for each axle) of SumoSprings on my fifth wheel with the hope that it'll prevent the leaf springs from blowing up. They were very easy to install; the only annoying parts were rerouting the gas and electrical (brake) lines which would have interfered with the springs, and jacking the trailer up enough to install them. I didn't use any of the spacer blocks in my install.

Driver side, before:



Driver side, after:



Passenger side, before:





Passenger side, after:

 

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JD, looks like a great improvement. (y)

Am curious if it makes any difference in how it tows. My money is on that it tows one hell of a lot better.

For sure, it will lessen the road shock/s on the camper which can be nothing but good.

Thanks for giving me yet another idea of something to look at for the new camper. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
JD, looks like a great improvement. (y)

Am curious if it makes any difference in how it tows. My money is on that it tows one hell of a lot better.

For sure, it will lessen the road shock/s on the camper which can be nothing but good.

Thanks for giving me yet another idea of something to look at for the new camper. ;)
Haha, no problem. Another thing I noticed was the very small wiring used for the brakes; it looks like 14 AWG to me. I have been running this trailer with the gain at 10 and I'm wondering if the reason I have to run it maxed out is that there's significant voltage drop due to the small wires. I may look into the feasibility of replacing that crap with 6 AWG. Another thing that occurred to me is that the passenger side brakes have a longer run of wire because they're on the other side of the axle and the connection is made on the driver side. That would tend to result in the driver side getting more braking force, which I haven't noticed but I'll pay more attention to this next time we are out (hopefully next week). If I notice that effect I will embark on a rewire project and I'll ensure that the wire lengths are the same on both sides. In practice that will probably mean adding extra wire in a loop or bundle to the driver side to increase its resistance, since shortening the run to the passenger side is likely impractical. But with 6 AWG between the axles and main wiring harness the net resistance to each brake should be reduced compared to the present configuration.
 

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Looks great. Let us know how it tows, mainly how the ride is in the truck. I'm always interested in the best bang for the buck to improve chucking and jarring.

One nice thing about the '18 being broke down back in the spring when we took the last camper road trip, the F550 did not accept much BS from the camper. I assume it was bucking and jarring as normal but it didn't really seem to affect the ride up where we were. Getting ready to take off with the new gasser though so I may need to invest in some camper suspension mods.
 
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