I believe you need a scanner that can do programming and it has to be compatible with gm software which you might need a license fee for. The scanners to do it I think start about 2k and go up. The typical cheap auto parts store code reader cant do it.

 

So you think basically it’s a dealer only thing?
Anyone have an idea what the typical cost for R&R of body control module and programming?

 

Anyone with the equipment can do the programming. It takes a computer and another device that interfaces with GM's website. You can 'rent' the data and process directly from GM. As far as 'installing' the BCM, you disconnect BOTH battery negative terminals, then remove all the connectors to the BCM, then remove the BCM itself, then reinstall the BCM and plug in all the connectors. Re-attach the battery cables. I'm reasonably sure that you can get pre-programmed to your VIN# BCMs from various sources that aren't GM dealers. If you have a modified car, swapped engines, etc, that may not be a good idea, though.

 

If I could get a BCM pre-programmed that would be a much better option. My truck is stock at this point. Any recommendations on sources for pre-programmed BCM’s?

 

When you replace the BCM you will need to perform a theft deterrent learn and program key fobs after initial programming.. You can't pre program those setup procedures.

 

BT Diesel works would be my go to for BCM stuff.

 

Back to the beginning, what is wrong with the existing BCM and how do you know that the BCM is at fault?

 

My truck often dies when I hit even a small bump.
i’ve been working through lots of potential fixes.
I have removed, cleaned and put dielectric grease on the two grounds on the front of the truck body near the suspension, then the two below the front door pillars and the two on the dash under the windshield.
I have replace the brake pedal switch.
I have replaced the trailer brake controller which fixed the trailer brake alarms.
After cleaning the grounds, I went almost two weeks after cleaning the ground with little to no issues. Then they came back.
yesterday it started doing it as I left work. I found that if I wedged my boot under the brake pedal pushing it upwards fairly hard, I had no more issues all the way home (45 miles). I got a bungy cord and hooked it to the brake pedal and up to the dash tightly trying to simulate the boot pressure. All the way to work this morning and all the way home, then it died once.
It seems clear to me that there are multiple issues going on, or at least the issue is manifesting itself in multiple ways.
The only codes I get refer to the headlights, tail lights, and license plate light circuits and my scanner mentions the BCM. I need to work through what might be causing the codes to pop and determine whether the codes are directly related to the engine dying, but this is got me thinking about the BCM.
Up until the boot and bungi cord thing, it was very intermittent. Sometimes I would go for days with no issue, then have it happen five times in a few miles.
I’ll take any advise anyone is willing to provide.

 

The BCM ECM ABS and a lot of other modules and circuits all work together all the time to make your truck function correctly. The way to success on your part is to test anything you think might be wrong, then prove that it is the ONLY possible thing to fix the problem. Sometimes that's fairly easy, such as a short in a circuit, other times it is a witch's caldron of uncertainty and complex interactions between various parts of the truck. Without some pretty expensive equipment, it can be frustrating to find the answer. When you have problems, pick just one, and solve it and maybe it fixes others in ways that you will understand only after you solved the problem. Then pick another - and maybe you don't solve that one, but then move on to another. Eventually, you will get the job done.

One thing I would suggest is that when you refer to 'codes' or that your 'scanner mentions BCM' let others in on the conversation. What codes? What mention? What could a reader of your post make of this?

I remember a series of posts by a man whose wife is an endurance horse racer and travels all over the country. His problem was that with his wife driving to various races, trailer, and horses in tow, the truck would - without any perceptible reason - just shut down electrically, and then maybe start, maybe not for hours. He spent more than a year solving the problem. In the end, it was that the battery feed to the fuse box was loose or not making contact 100% of the time. The fix was quite easy, the problem was finding the problem. Your situation is somewhat similar, the problem is hard to find and understand what is happening to your truck. My message is that you shouldn't decide what the answer is until you have done all the investigation (testing) needed to make sure your answer is the right one.

The bungy cord on the brake pedal sounds a lot like a bad stop light switch and that involves the ECM and BCM - or some other wiring in that area. Lights that don't work correctly are often because of bad grounds. Get the wiring diagram and start testing the grounds. https://www.gmupfitter.com/wp-conte.../Sierra_Silverado_Electrical_Body_Builders_Manual_Service_Manual_2015_en_US.pdf or maybe a corroded connector or ???





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I agree, and that’s what I have been doing, one thing at a time working my way through it.
As I mentioned, I have replace the brake pedal switch (brand new GM part). Yet I still have some brake pedal issues. I had my much more nimble Daughter help me with that one and she really struggled getting the switch installed. I am thinking she may have slightly bent the shaft on the switch or something that has made it slightly out of adjustment…rendering it pretty much worthless.

 

Here are the codes it typically throws after the truck dying:

 

Again, still have to work through them. I’m had been a maintenance electrician for 30 years prior to a career change. I know how to troubleshoot, however it would be nice to have some of the scanning tools and modern equipment that I see folks on youtube using to work these things out.
I have a bluetooth code reader and that is helpful, but what I would like is one if those scanners that has all the wiring diagrams in it. And has live diagnosis and circuit triggering functions.
I bought this truck with the intention of keeping it for a very long time. I don’t mind spending money on tools, but its hard to figure out what I need at this point.
Have considered shelling out the $600 for the factory service manuals. Thoughts on that? Maybe the good info from the link above will get me by…
Thank you all for your help and incite. I firmly believe the internet and groups like this make the world a better and more intelligent place!
I’ll get this resolved sooner or later.

 

Instead of $600 just get you an alldata subscription for your year. It’s all electronics and helped me with em ECM gremlin I traced for like 3 years that would happen randomly or multiple times in a day. It’s the cheaper of the subscriptions as you only need access to your trucks stuff and not the entire system. It has step by step diagnosis methods for everything to help narrow it down.

 

You can get factory service information direct from GM

• $20 for 3 days
• $150 per month

Techline Connect Diagnostic System Software | ACDelco

I used ALLDATADIY for 3 years and liked that very much. BUT it applied to only 1 VIN# and no help on other vehicles or models, As long as you know it's for your particular truck, it's GREAT.

 

Can anyone provide opinions on how Identifix/Solenis compared to Alldata?

 

I cannot but if it’s a subscription for service it’s most likely very similar, Alldata had similar to my tech line subscription. Maybe try to find a shop close that uses the other two and see if they have any insight

 

Looked on Youtube. Several vids comparing the different diagnostic software. I am leaning toward Intellifix/Solenis right now.
Should have tried this type of thing years ago!

 

Look for a ground wire near each headlight. They might be on the fenders. They might also be near the top grill attachment. I have cleaned those 2 grounds on many different vehicles and seen the ghosts go away. I don’t know why those two grounds are often loose. Those grounds cover the dash and the computer on many different makes.

 

That’s my plan, get those codes to stay clear first.

 

Get the auto sync, go to WAM, or White Automotive online you can see options, you can unlock etc

 

its plug and play more stuff for 2016 prior than 2017 up, but you pay for what you want like remove speed limiter etc, comes with some stuff installed, you can get navigation while moving etc

 

the ground zone for front-end lights is under the radiator support on the driver's side - zone 1

 

I am thinking I may nee to replace the Body Control Module in my 2015 Chevy 2500HD Duramax Crew-cab.
I understand that these modules must be programmed once installed.
Can anyone tell me what is involved in programming the BCM? Is it a dealer only thing? Can it be done with a reasonably priced store bought scanner type device?
What is the story on these things?
Thank you!

Every module has a build number which has the hardware and software version numbers in it. When you replace the module you either need to get one with the same version number or there are online third party companies that can program it for you. Alternatively you need the dealer to install and program it.

 

Well, I think I figured it out. Very long day, almost ended with a tow! BUT, I believe I may have found my problem. The PO had installed some sort of aftermarket accessory and used the ECM fuse in the engine compartment fuse box as a power source. After many other attempted fixes I had the truck in a position where it would not start/crank at all today. i I opened the fuse panel and R&R’ed all the relays/fuses that had anything to do with the engine starting or running and to my amazement the truck started right up! So I hopped out and wiggled a few relays and then touched the aftermarket fuse adaptor thing and poof, engine died! Wiggled a little more & started the truck back up and repeated the problem several times. I ended up bending the tabs on the adaptor so it would get a stickier and more solid connection. After that, I could not wiggle it enough to make it lose contact.
Time will tell, but I have high confidence that I found the problem.
Now I just need to come up with a permanent solution. Hate the hokey fuse adaptor things. Need to find out what the mess does and a solid way to hard wire it together.
Fingers crossed!
I’ll post a pic or two in the next few days. Maybe someone on here will have a good recommendation for a permanent fix.
Thank you all for your help!

 

So what does that fuse tap device power up?

 

Pretty sure it is for the lift pump. It was late last night when I got everything finished. Will verify and take a pic of the aftermarket fuse adaptor this afternoon or tomorrow afternoon.

 

Trying to bump this up, see if there has been any other update on this. Posted in another thread but sounds like you had a lot of the same problems as me. I have 2015 Silverado 2500. For the last 3 years have had intermittent Service Trailer Brake system light. Been to dealer 3-4 times and they can't figure out. Now recently have had these issues in order:
-Hard crank and start intermittent
-Parking sensors stopped working
-Pulsing headlights with turn signal use, especially when fog lights on.
-Turned truck off and had absolutely no power, wouldn't even turn over, as if no batteries in truck, after playing with buttons on fob powered on and restarted
-Service Stabilitrack
-While driving, engine kept running and driving however all electrical components began flashing/skipping. Pulled over and turned off engine and it again was completely dead as if no power at all.
-Got in truck and again was completely dead with no power at all.

Batteries were replaced in December '23, and are holding at 12.6 on meter. All the above has only started within last week, before that, was only getting trailer brake issue. No add on accessories to the electrical systems. All input helpful.