Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum banner

boost gauge

5K views 37 replies 6 participants last post by  diesel04 
#1 ·
i am trying to figure this out and am lost. i got the EGT figures out. but the boost is lossing me. i have all the stuff. but do i use the T fitting and put it in after my PPE BIV or do i have to get something to tap into the pipe with it. Help please:confused:
 
See less See more
1
#3 ·
ok. can i do that with the parts that i have there? it doesn't seem like i would be able to.
 
#4 ·
I would take the t-fitting and put it in line with the wastegate boost reference line. That's what i did. But, like he said^^^^^^^ you can tap your ic pipe.
 
#10 ·
I will go take a picture of mine in a minute. Same line the ppe valve goes in, put it before the valve and it will read very accurately.
 
#11 ·
ok thank you. why not after though? wouldn't that be the correct pressure? i don't know.
 
#12 ·
The PPE valve relives pressure so after it will not be accurate. heres mine.

 
#13 ·
thank you. and you said that reads very accruat. i think i will go that route. it looks much easier than taping the ic pipe. thank you
 
#14 ·
No problem, the accuracy comes from being on the outlet of the turbo housing, cant get better than that. Some people prefer to tap the intake to see what the motor is seeing, but the intercooler and hoses restrict air a bit. So, if you read there, you turbo is pushing more than you see.
 
#15 ·
gotcha. getting in to it right now. thank you for your help.. doing the EGT next. then i havea temp sensor to put somewhere. it can withthe set. any ideas where to add it to help it says for trans, coolent or oil.....
 
#16 ·
Well, our trucks come with coolant and trans temp sensors, so you might want to do oil temp. Then again, i have heard that the trans temp sensor is not accurate, might want to stat another thread on that one. Good luck with your projects man, any more questions, just ask.
 
#17 ·
will do. thank you for your help on my problem. almost done withit now.
 
#18 ·
ok i got it all hooked up and turned my truck on and nothing. whats wrong????????????????? no lights or anything checked all wires and they are good as far as i can tell
 
#19 ·
got it. the fuse in the a a fuse was in the wrong hole. lol my bad
 
#20 ·
Where did you tap in for power? If its on your dimmer, they wont come on unless your lights are on.
 
#21 ·
no i used an accr in the panel inside. it is the 10amp in the uper left hand side. just had it backward. lloks good now. will have pics soon
 
#22 ·
Aight, can't wait to see.:drink
 
#23 ·
they it is.



 
#24 ·
I like it, who makes it?
 
#26 ·
Glowshift there 3in1 diesel gauge. looks sweet and has 10 different colors. i used the temp sensor for outside air. lol couldn't figure out wher to put it for oil.
 
#25 · (Edited)
im trying to install my cobalt mechanical gauge but the tubing for it is sooo freakin small 1/8" and its more of a hard plastic material, any suggestions for using a T on the wastegate line since it didnt come with one. I have to keep the same tubing because of how it inserts into the gauge itself. sorry bout the pics there with my cellphone oh and for stealing the thread :D

Finger Hand Nail Sky Material property

Fuel line Water Technology Electronic device Cable
:D
 
#27 ·
im trying to install my cobalt mechanical gauge but the tubing for it is sooo freakin small 1/8" and its more of a hard plastic material, any suggestions for using a T on the wastegate line since it didnt come with one. I have to keep the same tubing because of how it inserts into the gauge itself. sorry bout the pics there with my cellphone oh and for stealing the thread :D

take the tubing into the auto parts store and see if they have a T fitting that will fit it. and not be to small for the wastegate line.
 
#28 ·
You wont be able to T into the nylon tubing. you will need to use 1/8" NPT compression fittings. And dont tighten these very much or they will pinch the hose.

Also be careful with that nylon tubing. Its very brittle and will kink easily. I like to get it warmed up and stretched out straighter before working with it.

Now to adapt it to a T just get one of those universal Ts that have all of the barbs and you cut off the barbs you dont need. Get a piece of rubber hose that the 1/8" NPT fitting will fit into. Then put the T into the wastegate line, and then slide the other hose over the T. Then slide your 1/8" NPT compression fitting into the other end of that short hose and then install the Nylon tubing.

For the keyed power source I always tap into the sunroof fuse under the hood, it isnt used in most all of our trucks. For the light power source I tap into the trailer lights under the hood. I use Add-a-circuits. They are the best way to tap a fuse but they are pricey. To make the install even more discreet, I drill a hole into the fusebox under the recession for your hand to pull the lid off. I drill this right into where the fuses are so I can terminate my loom inside the box. It makes for a very clean install.

Under the hood I also like to wrap everything in GOOD loom and secure it with the fancy wire loom holders that snap into little holes you drill. Another less permanent way of mounting the loop is the stick on zip-tie fasten point deals. Or and even easier route is to just zip tie it to whatever is handy.

I also run all of my wires through the big hole that you can see on the drivers side of the firewall. It is a hole in the insulation, but there is metal still there, Drill a hole for your loom and install a rubber grommet then slide the loom through it. When running your loom, make it look pretty. Start with it down at the pyro, tape the end of it there. Then run it up along the firewall to the hole I mentioned. For the boost line, run it off of the turbo and tie it into the pyrometer loom, running the boost line inside it with the pyro line. Make sure to tape this joint. For the wires coming out of the fusebox, run them out of the way over to the hole in the firewall and tie them into the boost/pyro loom, again taping this connection.

Inside the truck, run all wires up and out of the way. The more time you spend on this the less chance you have of kicking them with your feet. Its tricky to get them over to the drivers side fuse panel area but keep your patience and it will look like you were never there. I like to use some loom for this part as well to keep as clean of look as possible. Then, with the a-pillar removed if you look straight down you will see that there is adequate room to run all of the wires up. this spot is towards the firewall, away from the fuse panel on that side. Run them up through there making sure that you do have excess wire. But before you run the loom up to the a-pillar where it will terminate make sure you get your ground wire up there and attach the aire to a good grounding spot under the dash.

Now the a-pillar, this part is not the funnest. I will assume you have a mechanical boost gauge. Take the white wire from the pyro harness and get yourself an additional piece of white wire. Splice/solder these wires to your light source feed wire you ran from the trailer light fuse. Then heat shrink if necessary. Do the same for the ground wires. Make sure to leave some excess wire though for the boost gauge. you can always cut excess off. The power wire gets hooked directly to the red wire for the pyro harness. Now for the boost gauge, cut off any excess wire and crimp on your female disconnects. Then install the boost line to the gauge (cutting the excess off ) and then your wires, now just push them into the pod and clock them how you want. I do not use the clamps as they are a PITA and the autometer gauges when used with an autometer pod are a very tight fit. The hardest part about this is that you have to juggle the factory a-pillar, the gauge pod, and the wires all at once. I do this with the pod very close to where it will be mounted to reduce excess wire.

Hope this helps.
 
#30 ·
good to know. thanks. plus i read there is not a place on the tranny to put an aftermarket sensor.
 
#34 ·
#36 ·
it looks like it will work to me. mine seems to be accurate. runs about 5 when i take off or up a small hill. and 22 or so when i put it to the floor. and thats what i've heard are good numbers. im happy with it. as long as the hose you have fits in it, it will work
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top