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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, so about 10 years ago my best friend and me went out test driving new trucks. We went to a dodge dealership and test drove a 1500. loved the throttle response but wanted more. Went to Toyota dealership, Tundra, really liked their new 2007 body style, just not how the truck would be lazy for awhile before it downshifted. Hit the ford dealership and, well. He wasnt a ford guy anyway. We hit the Chevy Dealer, and similar thing to the Toyota, it was 50/50 chevy or toyota at this point, but before we left the sales guy told him he had to drive one more truck. He had never driven a diesel to this point and i think it was the first one i ever rode in too. I remember he punched it (damp day) and lit the tires up. SOLD. a few weeks later he got his truck he ordered from the dealership. He tragically died in a roll over accident awhile ago and when his wife decided it was time to sell his truck so i bought it. It feels to me like his truck lost alot of Jam it had when it was original. I could be wrong but i remember it squeezed me in my seat. I am not mechanically retarded, i know my way around a LS engine (to a degree) but since i got this truck, i started doing research on diesels and performance mods and well... my head hurts. The engine is hard for me to wrap my head around, i don't know any of the plumbing and well, honestly it looks like a nightmare to work on. Soooooo, i need advice. the last diesel i drove was my buddies 2011 LML, he had a DPF delete and a bullydog tuner on it but it sank me into the seat when i squeezed the go petal. I am looking for the same thing in my 08 LMM Truck. I would like to make as much as the new L5P (445hp~900tq) if possible. I watched Gale Banks on "Destroying the Duramax" in his youtube videos and i am unsure on how to achieve my goal. Should i get just a tune? EFi Live? Should i do a intake kit with a tune? Exhaust? I would like to go the route that would be the most reliable and get a EGR/DPF delete as well. I would like it to be Clean (no or very little smoke) and quiet if possible. Please, lay your wisdom down apon me, my budget is 1,000-4,000 canadian rubles
 

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You will need your budget just for a transmission that can take the torque. Or if you spend your whole budget on engine performance upgrades you’ll have a dead transmission.
 

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That isn’t necessarily true.

Many of us have mild tunes on stock trans with hundreds of thousands of miles recorded.

It depends on what you want to do with it. If you want to hot rod every time you go to the store then a trans upgrade will eventually be waiting for you. But if you want to clean it up and remove unnecessary emissions components and enjoy some pep-that can be had for around 1500-2000. This is also something you sound capable of doing yourself. If you decide to remove the egr yourself-fair warning she’s dug in there pretty tight. Other than that it’s pretty straight forward and this community has a ton of write ups to help you along the way.
 

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How much would a trans build cost? and if i did go that route what would be the weak link? i would ideally like to keep the truck as stock as possible but i will pay for upgrades for weak links for maximum durability. however i have a 57 pontiac that i would like to build sitting in storage right now too, so id rather spend money there but i am down for all recommendations and cautions. i typically do not subscribe to the lead foot everywhere but im not gonna lie, i will occasionally hammer down maybe few times a week. i will be towing as well
 

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I don’t think on an 08 lmm, that he can feed his stock transmission 445 hp and 900 ftlb of torque for very long till it belches really bad and vomits or gets a good case of diarrhea.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Lets say i wanted a EGR/DPF delete and a mild tune with the capabilities to push it to 500-600hp at a later date. basically future proofing the parts i put on now. what would you guys recommened i look at?
 

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what would you guys recommened i look at?
Doing a Dmax swap into the '57 Star Chief. marx
There's enough acreage under the hood to fit.
 

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what would you guys recommened i look at?
Doing a Dmax swap into the '57 Star Chief. <img src="http://www.mysmiley.net/imgs/smile/evilgrin/evilgrin0039.gif" border="0" alt="" title="evil0039" class="inlineimg" />
There's enough acreage under the hood to fit.
Seriously considering. but a 6.0 and 4L80 from a junkyard is infinitely cheaper to make go fast since i can do a majority of the work myself. diesels? witchcraft. however stock Dmax would still be a blast in it.
 

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Inspiration Vid;

 

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Our motors are (basically) the same. Take the L5P power numbers with a grain of salt, we all know these are crank numbers and not wheel.

You want reliability, exhaust is a must, egr delete is a must. A decent trans build is gonna cost. It was 5K for me to build my own like 5 years ago. To build the same way I did is gonna be around 7k with our loonie right now.

So get a 4" exhaust with a muffler and potentually a resonator to quiet it down and eliminate the DPF. Either get the EGR delete from HSP, SDP or other ruputable source. Sinisters stuff fits like crap, I had to modify it to make it fit. Your going to want efi live from somewhere like moonshine, duramax tuner, ridgerunner...do research and go with what you want. I would highly recommend a lift pump. Stick to a 90hp tune and done go full retard on the skinny. The tranny really doesnt like added power if you have the habit of mashing it. If you plan on playing with it, start saving for the transmission.

As for plumbing, airbox goes to turbo, turbo goes to hotside pipe, hotside pipe to intercooler, intercooler to coldside pipe (airgrid heater is part of this section), coldside to Y- bridge, y-bridge feeds the manifold to all the valves. Your rightside up pipe has a Y in it where the egr ties in. Fuel lines - tank to filter, filter to cp3, cp3 to rail, return lines to cooler, cooler to tank..
Just a brief crash course. Took me a bit to wrap my head around this stuff as well. More questions, feel free to ask.

Gorgeous truck, grats
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You good sir... you are exactly the guy i was looking for. i was about two clicks away from buying sinisters egr delete kit before i figured i should find a forum and ask. thank you for the save good sir!. My buddy who passed was born in PG, fitting i follow your advice on it
 

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So, lets say i have the transmission built where is my weak link? i am going to sell my old truck and i may put that cash into my new truck so my budget can be upwards of 10 thousand.
 

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Ok, this is what i came up with and its associated costs. this is in canadian rupees mind you.
Intake, EGR delete, Y pipe, Intercooler piping = 4500$~
Fass Titianium 165 Lift Pump = 1000$~
4" Exhaust/DPF Delete = 550$~
BD Fuel plug = 100$?
EFiLive with Tune = 1000$~
Plus maybe 1200$ in labour if i go that route.
Total 6650~7500$

If i use a 90hp tune, with the better flow it should (hopefully) give me more gains down low which is where i want them and not scatter my transmission immediately. Trans and maybe a banks intercooler down the road. This kit does say it allows me to reroute my PVC system and remove the resonator box. is this something i should look into? thanks again gents

. With a 90hp tune and
 

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Lets say i wanted a EGR/DPF delete and a mild tune with the capabilities to push it to 500-600hp at a later date. basically future proofing the parts i put on now. what would you guys recommened i look at?
i would start with the delete and tuning with EFI live, then i would go from there. You may find that you have more power then you know what to do with at that point anyway, and additional mods may not be needed. However, in the event that you do want more, the tunes can simply be updated down the road to incorporate newer hardware as you add it to the truck. The tune is 100% the most important thing to do first, without it, everything else is just expensive bling.

you will likely use a significant portion of your budget on the tune and delete so i would do that now, see how you like it, then if you need more later, its easy enough to add on power.

The stock transmission is good for ~50-100 HP over the stock configuration depending on who you ask, its a great transmission but its not indestructible if you try hard enough. the transmission will be your limiting factor for now, the turbo, injectors, intake ect, can make more power, the transmission just cant take it. so the build should be next. Then once you have your tune, and build transmission, drop in a bigger turbo, or twins and bigger injectors if you really want to burn through tires.

If your comparison though is an LML with a delete and bully dog on it, i think EFI live is all you need.



So, lets say i have the transmission built where is my weak link? i am going to sell my old truck and i may put that cash into my new truck so my budget can be upwards of 10 thousand.
after the transmission your weak link is probably the connecting rods and pistons, but its quite a jump to that point. The head studs may also start to become an issue at high boost levels as they will stretch and the heads can lift off the block under load. ARP head studs fix that, but again, your a long way from needing them.


this is a highly modified engine but it does show the correct factory plumbing minus the intercooler that would connect the two open pipes.


pipe with filter on it goes into the mouth of the turbo, turbo compresses air and sends it out the pipe on the right, goes into intercooler to lower the temperature, then it goes into the intake of the engine. The smaller diameter pipe in the center of the engine is coolant to the radiator.

I have no idea whos engine this is, looks good though.


 

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I see the steering bridle, where ya put the saddle at? :howdy
 

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I see the steering bridle, where ya put the saddle at? :howdy
you just straddle the turbo. The goal is to see who can stay on longest as the turbo heats up. >:)



i figured the picture of it on a stand without all the extra wiring, fuel lines, ducting ect would make it easier to understand the air routing.
 

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I see the steering bridle, where ya put the saddle at? <img src="http://www.mysmiley.net/imgs/smile/characters/character0176.gif" border="0" alt="" title="char0176" class="inlineimg" />

i figured the picture of it on a stand without all the extra wiring, fuel lines, ducting ect would make it easier to understand the air routing.
Sure helped! Thanks brother 👍
You can save quite a bit on the lift pump. 195 gph is good for about 3000 hp.
Awesome, could i get away with a 95? would that support 500-600 if i decide to spend money like a child in the near future?
 
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