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Okay so this may seem like a dumb question but I cannot find anything online and I have not opened anything up yet because I want all of the parts ahead of time. I am doing a full rebuild on my front end and also doing new brake pads, rotors and calipers all the way around. I am doing a rebuild because everything is shot, I pull a 40' loaded horse trailer frequently and it is also my daily driver. I have put all 230,000 miles on the truck so I know things are overdue. The list is long on replacement/upgrades that is being done, I do all my own repairs and maintenance as I refuse to take it anywhere so these forums have been really helpful.

2008 3500 Duramax DRW

Does a DRW have calipers on the rear? Any upgrade suggestions?

I am looking at the Hawk Super pads, slotted rotors and that is about as far as I have gotten.
 

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There are two options for rear brakes on a one ton DRW depending on RPO code. JH6 is 9900 lbs, JH7 is 123,000 lbs. That is not a typo on my part. AllData says 123,000 lbs. It's probably supposed to be 12,300 lbs but that's not what it says. If you have JH6 then get the stuff for JH7 for a factory like upgrade. However with DRW you probably already have JH7.

Beyond that there are lots of people who well supposedly superior brakes. I've never seen anything within reasonable pricing that did much but if you have the money I'm sure you could find carbon ceramic brakes somewhere. Using the engine brake covers a lot of braking needs though.
 

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Okay so this may seem like a dumb question but I cannot find anything online and I have not opened anything up yet because I want all of the parts ahead of time. I am doing a full rebuild on my front end and also doing new brake pads, rotors and calipers all the way around. I am doing a rebuild because everything is shot, I pull a 40' loaded horse trailer frequently and it is also my daily driver. I have put all 230,000 miles on the truck so I know things are overdue. The list is long on replacement/upgrades that is being done, I do all my own repairs and maintenance as I refuse to take it anywhere so these forums have been really helpful.

2008 3500 Duramax DRW

Does a DRW have calipers on the rear? Any upgrade suggestions?

I am looking at the Hawk Super pads, slotted rotors and that is about as far as I have gotten.
Not sure on your caliper question, i would suspect there are calipers and not drums back there though given the weight of the truck. '

Ill add to this though that if your tearing into everything that much and were not already planning to install braided brake lines that may be something you want to consider. There was a significant improvement in pedal feel and stopping performance after switching the rubber lines for braided lines. The line kits around 100$ last time i looked.

Ive always run ACDelco rotors and Raybestos pads without issue. Good service life, reasonably low dust, and good performance.

As for the rotors, i would go with solid rotors. Modern pads dont offgass as much as older pads do so you dont really need the relief for the gases to escape. The slotted rotors will wear the pads faster and they reduce the contact area on the rotor. There great for high performance applications but i would not put them on a daily driver. Same goes for drilled rotors, they just create stress risers that lead to cracked rotors. Solid rotors give you the most surface to clam down on with the pads which is what you want when your stopping a trailer.
 

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Okay so this may seem like a dumb question but I cannot find anything online and I have not opened anything up yet because I want all of the parts ahead of time. I am doing a full rebuild on my front end and also doing new brake pads, rotors and calipers all the way around. I am doing a rebuild because everything is shot, I pull a 40' loaded horse trailer frequently and it is also my daily driver. I have put all 230,000 miles on the truck so I know things are overdue. The list is long on replacement/upgrades that is being done, I do all my own repairs and maintenance as I refuse to take it anywhere so these forums have been really helpful.

2008 3500 Duramax DRW

Does a DRW have calipers on the rear? Any upgrade suggestions?

I am looking at the Hawk Super pads, slotted rotors and that is about as far as I have gotten.
Yes, your truck has calipers on the rear. The DRW calipers are different from SRW brakes. The DRW caliper brackets are different sizes.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, your truck has calipers on the rear. The DRW calipers are different from SRW brakes. The DRW caliper brackets are different sizes.
Thank you, I suspected that I had disc brakes and not drums but was not 100% sure. Do you have any idea of where to get the calipers/brackets for a DRW? I have searched high and low, but it seems like they are a unicorn! I can find the fronts for a DRW and rears for a SRW all day long.
 

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There are two options for rear brakes on a one ton DRW depending on RPO code. JH6 is 9900 lbs, JH7 is 123,000 lbs. That is not a typo on my part. AllData says 123,000 lbs. It's probably supposed to be 12,300 lbs but that's not what it says. If you have JH6 then get the stuff for JH7 for a factory like upgrade. However with DRW you probably already have JH7.

Beyond that there are lots of people who well supposedly superior brakes. I've never seen anything within reasonable pricing that did much but if you have the money I'm sure you could find carbon ceramic brakes somewhere. Using the engine brake covers a lot of braking needs though.
I am assuming you are talking about the exhaust brake in regards to the engine brake?Unfortunately I have not had a chance to delve into that, I know it is on my truck but just not hooked up.
 

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I am assuming you are talking about the exhaust brake in regards to the engine brake?Unfortunately I have not had a chance to delve into that, I know it is on my truck but just not hooked up.
Yes it is. I believe it is an easy upgrade but I'm not the one to ask about that. If you search the forum you will find lots of good info on it.

Here is the place to order brake parts:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2008,silverado+3500,6.6l+v8+diesel+turbocharged,1441211,brake+&+wheel+hub,brake+pad,1684

Any parts store that can't get you everything you might need for your truck isn't a real parts store. You have one of the most popular vehicles made.

I don't generally recommend replacing calipers and rotors unless you have a problem with them. If your truck stops straight, doesn't have a pulsing in the brakes and if the rotors aren't badly scored from metal to metal contact you can probably just put pads on it and be fine. I know lots of people want to do the whole thing at once and if it makes you happy then do it. It just isn't necessary.
 

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I am assuming you are talking about the exhaust brake in regards to the engine brake?Unfortunately I have not had a chance to delve into that, I know it is on my truck but just not hooked up.
If yoru truck is deleted then you must have a tune or you would be in Limp Mode.. If the tune is an EFI Live tune then the Turbo Brake is most likely in the logic for the Turbo Brake, and it should be activated in TH Mode.

If the tune is not EFI Live the logic may not be in the tune. If this is the case then the TB can be activated in your truck for very little expense. Here is a thread that tells you how to do it:

https://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/07-5-10-lmm-duramax-powertrain/926154-turbo-brake-lmm-works.html

Read the entire thread, don'[t neglect the included links. I helped one guy do it and he made all the most common mistakes so this is portion of the thread is very instructive as well.

Any questions, please dont hesitate to ask. If you dont' have it activated, you will LOVE it when it is.
 

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Okay so this may seem like a dumb question but I cannot find anything online and I have not opened anything up yet because I want all of the parts ahead of time. I am doing a full rebuild on my front end and also doing new brake pads, rotors and calipers all the way around. I am doing a rebuild because everything is shot, I pull a 40' loaded horse trailer frequently and it is also my daily driver. I have put all 230,000 miles on the truck so I know things are overdue. The list is long on replacement/upgrades that is being done, I do all my own repairs and maintenance as I refuse to take it anywhere so these forums have been really helpful.



2008 3500 Duramax DRW



Does a DRW have calipers on the rear? Any upgrade suggestions?



I am looking at the Hawk Super pads, slotted rotors and that is about as far as I have gotten.


Just replaced what were likely the original pads rotors and calipers on my 08 LMM. Purchase it in 16 and started hauling an 11,000lb 5th wheel this year. Noticed significant front end wobble and replaced everything with the Powerstop Z36 front and rear. Also added the Kryptonite stainless steel lines and flushed all fluid and replaced with DOT 4. No more wobble, solid quick stops and relatively easy replacement. Haven’t been over the pass with the trailer since replacement but the few hills I have hit the brakes felt solid.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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no one listens , OEM pads and equal to OEM rotors, slots and holes and all the upgrade BS is a waste of money and will not give you performance or better brakes except for perhaps a few thousand miles, I know of what I speak from a lot of wasted time and money thinking it would improve the truck, stick with OEM, and I MEAN OEM !!! GM parts with GM name just like the factory put on, You can do as you please and listen to all the advice , you will be sorry in the long run and never see close to OEM life and performance.
 

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I agree I have slotted and drilled on my 05 and wont do it again. It has a problem of collecting all that brake dust and then when I tow something that I actually need the brakes with they get hot and it smells like smoked brakes.

The rotors are R1 concepts and hawk pads. I think they do it all for show and there truly isn't enough slots or holes to make a positive difference. They also eat pads fairly quickly. Going back oem soon.
 

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Powerstop makes a good setup I've found for good price. Drilled slotted rotors, z36 pads and calipers.
 

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Went with the GM OEM from rock auto, pads and rotors was around $650 shipped.

The dually is indeed the higher GVWR ones listed at rock auto.

The fronts aren’t bad, but the rears are more work. Will need to remove the front spacer though.

The Haynes manual for the full size GM Trucks does have the brake replacement procedure for the dually in there if wanted as a reference, also some good YouTube videos on the process.

You’ll need a special socket to remove and install the rear hub lock nut, new two piece oil seals, and I got two new axle to hub seals. I had to grind down the pins on my tool to get it to fit for some reason too.

The rear floating axles will need pulled, so if in a garage or something, leave enough room to do so.

The hubs are on there pretty good, I had to beat mine off with a hammer. Loosen the lock nut, but leave it on the spindle to catch the hub and bearing though.

The seal will most likely tear apart in the process leaving the inner seal on the spindle. Be sure to remove it, even though it can be hard to tell if it’s the seal or part of the spindle.

The wheel studs will need pressed or beaten out to remove the old rotor, and pressed or drove in a with long punch or pulled with the lug nuts (there is a risk of stripping the lugs this way, but this is the way I did my one hub after taking forever to beat the other side in) when installing the new rotor.

After I was done, I drove each side of the rears up on some ramps to distribute oil to the other side, then checked the level and added as needed.

Also a good time for a tire rotation, greasing, and full brake fluid replacement. May also want to do the power steering flush, as it would be easier to turn when the front wheels are off the ground, and of course the fuel filter if needed since the inner fender is easily accessed.
 
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