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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just a quick question... I did a lot of searching and couldn't find my answer... but why is it these brakes/rotors dont last long? My truck has 44k for miles and the rotors have been turned about 10k ago... what brand can I get that will last longer? Also, do I replace all four cornors or just the front?

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Are your rotors just warped or are your pads wore out? Usually the original pads will last a really really long time. Most guys get at least 100k out of them.

My rears didn't last quite that long but my front pads are still doing well. But my rear rotors are warped a little.

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I think you got a lemon.. My truck is 4 1/2 years old and still has the original brakes/rotors on.
 

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Are your rotors just warped or are your pads wore out? Usually the original pads will last a really really long time. Most guys get at least 100k out of them.

My rears didn't last quite that long but my front pads are still doing well. But my rear rotors are warped a little.

Sent from my phone, probably while driving and eating a sammich
yeah mine looked fine when I swapped em at 110k....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My brakes are fine, it's the rotors. My 07 classic lasted until I traded at 69k and felt great. From what I've seen, the new body styles had a change done...
 

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From what I know the only thing that changed was the body and the emissions garbage on the motor. The frame, suspension and brakes are the same as an lbz I believe.

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Discussion Starter #8
Weird... of course... my service manager told me that they cheapened up the rotors on the new body style hence my comment. Like I said before, my 07' classic brakes were awesome as well as my 04'.
 

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As far as I know....the brakes on all are the same, minus the new LMLs....as they are bigger.
 

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100k miles on mine and about 1/4" of pad left. Im starting to get a little squeak though. Should I ignore the noise as long as the brakes are working fine? Not trying to highjack the thread, just thought it fit the subject.:cookoo[1]:
 

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100k miles on mine and about 1/4" of pad left. Im starting to get a little squeak though. Should I ignore the noise as long as the brakes are working fine? Not trying to highjack the thread, just thought it fit the subject.:cookoo[1]:
Dont ignore it. Its your wear tabs rubbing the rotors. If you dont replace them it will tear up your rotors. Unless you bend the tabs back a little bit. This will buy you some time if your pinched for cash
 

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Anytime you turn warped rotors you make it easier for them to warp the next time, It basically cuts the high points off and leaves them thinner than the low spots. This makes certain parts of the rotor want to expand and heat up faster than other areas leading to more warping. In my opinion, cutting a rotor is only going to buy you time before you end up replacing them, with that said, I will cut a factory rotor because they seem to be built better than most of the parts store ones and last pretty well. After 1 cut I replace them with the better ones the parts store sells, (I had a cheap one fail, the disc seperated from the hat going down the road, NOT FUN) and I wont cut the replacements Ill get new ones.
 

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Just a quick question... I did a lot of searching and couldn't find my answer... but why is it these brakes/rotors dont last long? My truck has 44k for miles and the rotors have been turned about 10k ago... what brand can I get that will last longer? Also, do I replace all four cornors or just the front?

Thanks
Do you do alot of towing or hard breaking? What are they doing? What part is not lasting, or are both thr rotor and pads going? Rotors warp due to heat. The thicker the metal the less warping. Vented rotors help with cooling and improves breaking. Ebc makes some good ones. Also tempered metal is harder than nontempered. The heating and cooling of your rotors from driving tempers the metal. So if you turn them when they first so signs of warping you dont have to take much material off, keeping close to factory thickness. This will prevent warping as soon as a new rotor. I know some one on here will argue this cause of the thickness issue. Obviously every situation is different metal quality and so on but id have t type a novel to cover every aspect. Hope this helps. Give us a bit mor info brother maybe we can better answer you.
 

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You should do some research about "warped rotors" Vs hard spots and wear spots. There is alot of falsehoods about this subject. I have a pulsating brake pedal when the brakes get hot ,its hard or irregular wear in the rotor and it is aggravated when they are hot during hard braking , my pedal NEVER pulsates when I am not towing and using alot of brake down a hill. Do the research and you will be amazed at what you find on how to avoid these problems and increase milage you get on these trucks brakes. Drilled/slotted rotors are not the way to go, research that as well. I am just trying to help spending alot on brakes like I did and wasting a ton of money and time.
 

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Dont ignore it. Its your wear tabs rubbing the rotors. If you dont replace them it will tear up your rotors. Unless you bend the tabs back a little bit. This will buy you some time if your pinched for cash
:drinkThank you.
 

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The brakes on my truck squeal off and on. This has been going on since it had about 5000 mi, it has about 29000 now. Since my wife drove it most of the time until recently I didn't pay much attention to it. They don't do it all of the time so I'm thinking its not the pads.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
From my searches, I have found people stating the cross drilled rotors are best but them some stating the opposite. I am not thrilled with going back to GM rotors or brakes and need to know what people have had the best success with. Do I spend a lot of money on some cross drilled or buy the cheap rotors with lifetime replacment from autozone and swap them out when the warp? Just dont want to waste cash if you know what I mean... thanks
 

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Mine are warped and I have 86k on em. Bought me some cheap ones and new pads for 210.00. Probably wont last but gotta be better than what I have now.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have roughly 48k on mine and would like to get something that I dont have to worry about. I had these turned at 31k becasue of warpping already... ugg... this sucks..
 

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I have almost 200,000 miles on my oem brakes. Never once had them changed. Everytime I was at the shop the guy tells me I had plenty of pad left. I dont tow so I guess I am lucky on getting 200,000 miles. Im thinking now to get some slotted/ drilled rotors from r1 concepts. I have those brakes on my srt8 jeep and I have no compaints.
 
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