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OMG
:horsepoo
This thread

For the love of torque, Just get a TruTrac and be done with it...I've seen used ones go for less than $500 on eBay and a new one is $950...yeah it's not cheap but it's 100x better and stronger than a G-80 and it works at any speed.

Adding custom parts to a G-80 and making some sort of hybrid will only cause the other weak aspects of the unit to become more evident, changing out the 11.5 for a 10.5, really? By the time you invest fluids, time, headache and then switch back out to an 11.5 again what did you save over just getting a TruTrac? And in the end you'll just have another used G-80???
OK
 

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Word.
 

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Is there anyone already making a billet, or possibly titanium cam gear that you guys might know of. Titanium might sound a little ridiculous, but seems to me the cam gear is most often the first to go and needs a serious upgrade...
There is no market for it, G80 failures are far less common than everyone who's had one fail lets on.

If you replace the common failure parts twice in the life of the vehicle thats ALOT.
OMG
:horsepoo
This thread

For the love of torque, Just get a TruTrac and be done with it...I've seen used ones go for less than $500 on eBay and a new one is $950...yeah it's not cheap but it's 100x better and stronger than a G-80 and it works at any speed.

Adding custom parts to a G-80 and making some sort of hybrid will only cause the other weak aspects of the unit to become more evident, changing out the 11.5 for a 10.5, really? By the time you invest fluids, time, headache and then switch back out to an 11.5 again what did you save over just getting a TruTrac? And in the end you'll just have another used G-80???
OK

The Tru Trac would be great IF it worked well in reverse.
 

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There is no market for it, G80 failures are far less common than everyone who's had one fail lets on.

If you replace the common failure parts twice in the life of the vehicle thats ALOT.



The Tru Trac would be great IF it worked well in reverse.
The parts fail when you beat on them...the G-80 doesn't do well with burn outs, high speed LSD duties or with higher horsepower, not torque, but horsepower...you'll be replacing not only the G-80 but whatever else it takes out when it grenades allot more frequently once you pass it's comfort zone...

What your implying is like saying LBZ piston failure isn't because they're weak, it's only because you hear about it, and not because there's numbers of people pushing past their feasible limit...like LBZ pistons the G-80 has limits...we're touching on one of the biggest banes to owning and tweaking most any GM product, they're so well engineered you have to replace dang near everything once you start digging into them and really make some serious power, however why discerning vehicle owners like GM products "is" because they are so well engineered to begin with, it's truly a catch 22

The Truetrac works in reverse...
http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@per/documents/content/ct_128302.pdf
 

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The parts fail when you beat on them...the G-80 doesn't do well with burn outs, high speed LSD duties or with higher horsepower, not torque, but horsepower...you'll be replacing not only the G-80 but whatever else it takes out when it grenades allot more frequently once you pass it's comfort zone...

What your implying is like saying LBZ piston failure isn't because they're weak, it's only because you hear about it, and not because there's numbers of people pushing past their feasible limit...like LBZ pistons the G-80 has limits...we're touching on one of the biggest banes to owning and tweaking most any GM product, they're so well engineered you have to replace dang near everything once you start digging into them and really make some serious power, however why discerning vehicle owners like GM products "is" because they are so well engineered to begin with, it's truly a catch 22

The Truetrac works in reverse...
http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@per/documents/content/ct_128302.pdf

Link all the marketing literature you want, the Tru Trac is completely lazy in reverse and is marginally better than an Open diff.


I think you would be shocked and amazed at how many G80s are still out there kicking ass on the drag strip and the pulling track.

Guys want to replace the G80, thats fine, just understand what you are giving up and what you are getting when upgrading.
 

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I haven't seen this directly covered on any forums or tutorials... The g80 will not lock at speeds above 20-30 mph (its one of the two). Looking at functionality videos and a little experience with burnouts and watching sled pulls, if the governor locks in at speed below previously mentioned it definitely stays locked... Correct? That being said, driving through deep snow above these speeds (which is pretty often where I live and travel) the diff will not lock in when i need it to... I know we could go all day with hypotheticals, but this probably my main concern. No lockup above 20 with g80 and no reverse with the tru trac... can't we just have the best of both worlds!?
 

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I have a grizzly locker. Scrubs tires while accelerating through a turn. Dangerous to let anyone else drive my pickup in the snow/ice that doesn't know how to drive with a locker in the rear. Not the best option for someone looking for a factory feel, you can definitely tell the difference in my opinion; especially if you do a lot of city driving/turning.
 

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I haven't seen this directly covered on any forums or tutorials... The g80 will not lock at speeds above 20-30 mph (its one of the two). Looking at functionality videos and a little experience with burnouts and watching sled pulls, if the governor locks in at speed below previously mentioned it definitely stays locked... Correct? That being said, driving through deep snow above these speeds (which is pretty often where I live and travel) the diff will not lock in when i need it to... I know we could go all day with hypotheticals, but this probably my main concern. No lockup above 20 with g80 and no reverse with the tru trac... can't we just have the best of both worlds!?
I am in one of the snowiest parts of the country and I can tell you its fine. Its not uncommon for me to blaze a trail up the road for 3-4 miles ( the first and last part of my commute) in a foot of snow and through drifts deeper yet. I also sled pull the crap out of my 01 for years now and can tell you that once she's locked she stays locked.

There is a way to trim/modify the fly weight so she will engage at higher speeds, but I've never seen the need to so haven't tried it.

I have a grizzly locker. Scrubs tires while accelerating through a turn. Dangerous to let anyone else drive my pickup in the snow/ice that doesn't know how to drive with a locker in the rear. Not the best option for someone looking for a factory feel, you can definitely tell the difference in my opinion; especially if you do a lot of city driving/turning.
I read post after post after post after post of guys that claim the grizzly is excellent and you don't know its back there. I've only had a detroit( eaton unit that the grizzley is a knock off of) in one of my own vehicles, but driven/ridden in plenty. I always had a hard time believing the street manners were what everyone claims. I wrote off the claims as people who don't truly do any urban winter driving even though they claim to.
 
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