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Looking at your pics, it almost appears as if the pin is wearing excessively or getting ready to shear.

Have you checked your trailer brakes and their settings? Do you feel the trailer brakes "grab" like the drums might be warped or something? The only other thing I can think of is to check the hitch to see that it is binding itself in the tube and not sitting on the pin. I.E. check to see that there is no gap on the top (IIRC the hitch gets pulled to the top of the receiver to lift the rear of the truck).

What model of WD hitch do you have? I want to look through the instructions. My Blue Ox said to set trailer and truck on level surface, take two measurements: 1 - unloaded hitch height, 2 - loaded hitch height. The difference should be about 1". I had to play with the settings on the chains a couple of times to get it where it needed to be along with keeping proper traction. About 1-1/2" was the magic number for me. Truck sat level, and had good traction. If it got to less than 1", I would loose rear traction on dry ground. Stock tuning on 06 true LBZ.
Two different trucks and two different travel trailers. Same issue. I’ve been trained by General Motors on proper hitch/trailer loading and towing procedures. Hitch and brake settings are dialed. Hitch is a Reese dual cam with 1200 lb bars. Same set up that my RV tech friend has sold and setup for years again without an issue like this. 🤷🏻‍♂️
 

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Two different trucks and two different travel trailers. Same issue. I’ve been trained by General Motors on proper hitch/trailer loading and towing procedures. Hitch and brake settings are dialed. Hitch is a Reese dual cam with 1200 lb bars. Same set up that my RV tech friend has sold and setup for years again without an issue like this. 🤷🏻‍♂️
Was not implying that you had it set wrong, just asking questions to see if there might be something that you have not checked. I know sometimes we are so involved that the little things get overlooked.

Have you tried disconnecting the WD when backing up having to make hard turns? Again, trying to see if the issue causing the bent pins can be identified. Would not be surprised if it turns out to be something simple causing the issue.

Reason for wanting to read the instructions is more for my own reference. I ran a BlueOx SwayPro and liked the ease of hookup. I have seen several others out there like the equalizer and am not a fan of the friction bar setup on the bracket for the way you have to connect it. Once I figured out the combination on my setup, I was able to do it in the driveway without lifting the truck with the trailer jack quite easily even though the the setup was not quite straight due to the dip at the hitch.
 

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That had to have been a serious decel and no trailer brakes..... would be curious to see the articles and or pictures... Haven't seen anything... How long ago?

EDIT saw 2 (in last 4 years and the AUH has been mad 30% stronger) and those trailers were HUGE and alot of weight, sounds like there were other issues...... I'm in an ultra lite and only 28'
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Wonder if those failures are due to a damaged tube? One small dent i that tube will increase failure significantly.
 

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Wonder if those failures are due to a damaged tube? One small dent i that tube will increase failure significantly.
I read the one story from the owner and it was on RVnet. He had a 5ver hooked up and made and Emergency stop and it let loose into the back of his F350 dually. The other 2 photos I dont have the back story. As a welding Engineer and someone who has designed and built tube structures, I personally would not use that hitch.
 

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Look at a Pullrite version. All steel, higher GVW rating...Happy with mine :)
 
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As an Engineer, I know the importance of several things associated with the design of the hitch. I agree that pulling with one of those is not high on the list of things I would do.

For elderly or challenged people I can see where the hitch platform is attractive. However, proper inspection of the platform is of the utmost importance.

As you know from welding engineering any defects in the tubes amplifies the stresses in that location. The primary thing I am not a big fan of in the design and fabrication of the hit is the ends. While it may not be a big thing to some, those fixed ends are an issue in themselves. Ideally a slot cut tabbed end while more labor intensive allows for minor flex of the tubing without creating a the moment (potential to bend) as easily. I could see adding a few bracing tubes at mid points along the diagonals to help with the unbraced length of those tubes causing failures.
 

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ChevyTech77 - something came to me. Have you check the spacing on the pin retainer hole? My though is that the hole may be too far forward or back thus transferring load to the pin instead of to the from and back of the ball mount shank. All of my shanks have a defined wear mark, I would need to check my WD hitch to see, but I think the hole is half way between the 2 wear marks.
 

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ChevyTech77 - something came to me. Have you check the spacing on the pin retainer hole? My though is that the hole may be too far forward or back thus transferring load to the pin instead of to the from and back of the ball mount shank. All of my shanks have a defined wear mark, I would need to check my WD hitch to see, but I think the hole is half way between the 2 wear marks.
I'm not sure I am following you. I know my shank has a wear mark from where it meets the outside "box" of the hitch but I'm not sure about any other wear mark.
 

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Shank pics. Obviously, the one with the head and ball on it is the one currently in use. The bare one is the first shank I had that was too long to use in my 1/2 ton trucks. I don’t ever remember the bare shank bending pins. Other than the shank change, all of my hitch equipment has stayed the same but it has all been used in three different trucks all with the same issue of bending pins. I bought some plain pins from the local trailer supply store the other day and got the same answer about the bending pins question as I’ve gotten from everyone thus far, “WOW, I’ve never seen that happen before.” How the hell can I be the only one with this issue? 😣🤷🏻‍♂️
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When I look at the "dressed" shank, I see what appears to be 2 wear marks on the top between the pin and the ball. The left wear mark looks to be about the same distance to the pin as the pin to the end, as I would expect. The second mark is closer to the pin. Part of the way a receiver and shank work is that the shank rides on 2 points in the receiver. Point 1 is between the ball and the pin, point 2 is either the end of the receiver tube and the shank or the end of the shank and the tube. When I look at the old shank, The wear pattern is about even on both sides of the pin hole.

If we look at this geometrically, the shank binds on the tube to support the load. if the distance from the pin to the support points in both directions is not approximately equal within the "slop" of the pin/hole setup, this changes the support points. The support points now become the pin and one of the other 2 contact areas.

When you install the hitch, do you have to pick it up to put the pin through?

It looks like you changed the shank to pick the ball up, I wonder how expensive it would be to either change the ball on the mount to a higher one, or have the shank re-drilled to the height you need it.
 

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When I look at the "dressed" shank, I see what appears to be 2 wear marks on the top between the pin and the ball. The left wear mark looks to be about the same distance to the pin as the pin to the end, as I would expect. The second mark is closer to the pin. Part of the way a receiver and shank work is that the shank rides on 2 points in the receiver. Point 1 is between the ball and the pin, point 2 is either the end of the receiver tube and the shank or the end of the shank and the tube. When I look at the old shank, The wear pattern is about even on both sides of the pin hole.

If we look at this geometrically, the shank binds on the tube to support the load. if the distance from the pin to the support points in both directions is not approximately equal within the "slop" of the pin/hole setup, this changes the support points. The support points now become the pin and one of the other 2 contact areas.

When you install the hitch, do you have to pick it up to put the pin through?

It looks like you changed the shank to pick the ball up, I wonder how expensive it would be to either change the ball on the mount to a higher one, or have the shank re-drilled to the height you need it.
I changed the shank because the long one was too low for my older 1/2 ton. I had to drop the ball height down one hole for the HD I currently have. I might be able to make the old shank work now.

Also, I think the wear marks your seeing is from the hitch on my 2017 1/2 ton. It had a weird ring on the outer end of it that was like a 1/2 pipe. I think I do need to pick up the newer shank a little to get the pin in.
 

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When I look at the "dressed" shank, I see what appears to be 2 wear marks on the top between the pin and the ball. The left wear mark looks to be about the same distance to the pin as the pin to the end, as I would expect. The second mark is closer to the pin. Part of the way a receiver and shank work is that the shank rides on 2 points in the receiver. Point 1 is between the ball and the pin, point 2 is either the end of the receiver tube and the shank or the end of the shank and the tube. When I look at the old shank, The wear pattern is about even on both sides of the pin hole.

If we look at this geometrically, the shank binds on the tube to support the load. if the distance from the pin to the support points in both directions is not approximately equal within the "slop" of the pin/hole setup, this changes the support points. The support points now become the pin and one of the other 2 contact areas.

When you install the hitch, do you have to pick it up to put the pin through?

It looks like you changed the shank to pick the ball up, I wonder how expensive it would be to either change the ball on the mount to a higher one, or have the shank re-drilled to the height you need it.
Ok, now that I’ve had time to try what you were asking, I think I found something.

So yes, I have to pick up very slightly, to get the pin to go all the way through (pin going into the hitch from left to right), with the hitch installed with the ball up. I cannot get the pin in at all, if I try to put the pin in from right to left, unless I pick up on the hitch.

Now, if I flip the hitch over (ball down) the pin goes in from either direction without issue. So, that leads me to believe that the hole in the shank is drilled too low slightly, in the normal installed position (shank going down) See the picture I have attached of the bottom of the shank. It tells the story.

My long/spare shank? Pin slips in from either direction, without issue at all. I can’t make it work though because the ball height will be too low and it would have to be drilled right through the weld joint.

We are leaving for a camping trip Thursday night. Not sure if I can find a properly fitting shank before then.
 

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Also, I don’t think that I would want to oversize the pin hole in the “dressed” shank to correct this. I don’t see that being a good idea.

One last thing, both shanks have about the same amount of play in the hitch.
 

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I wonder if you can change the ball to a "high rise" type. Curt makes one 2-5/16" Trailer Ball (1-1/4" x 2-5/8" Shank, 2" Rise, 10,000 lbs., Chrome) features a 2" rise. They also make a 1" rise. In chrome they are 10,000 lb and in raw steel 25,000 lb. One of these may be enough to get you back to the long drop shank that did not bend pins before.

You said that the new "neutral" shank has always bent pins in multiple receivers? This leads me to think its in the shank and not the setup or trailer being too heavy. Instead its transferring a lot of weight onto the pin that it should not be. You may check (I think you can do this without the trailer) to see that the pin is "loose" in both the up and down position on the long shank vs the neutral shank.

You might take some measurements with pictures and call Curt with your issue. If the hole is in the wrong spot, they may replace it for free. As for the hole being elongated up and down, no MFG in their right mind would tell you to do that, but depending on how much its off, it may be acceptable.
 

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I wonder if you can change the ball to a "high rise" type. Curt makes one 2-5/16" Trailer Ball (1-1/4" x 2-5/8" Shank, 2" Rise, 10,000 lbs., Chrome) features a 2" rise. They also make a 1" rise. In chrome they are 10,000 lb and in raw steel 25,000 lb. One of these may be enough to get you back to the long drop shank that did not bend pins before.

You said that the new "neutral" shank has always bent pins in multiple receivers? This leads me to think its in the shank and not the setup or trailer being too heavy. Instead its transferring a lot of weight onto the pin that it should not be. You may check (I think you can do this without the trailer) to see that the pin is "loose" in both the up and down position on the long shank vs the neutral shank.

You might take some measurements with pictures and call Curt with your issue. If the hole is in the wrong spot, they may replace it for free. As for the hole being elongated up and down, no MFG in their right mind would tell you to do that, but depending on how much its off, it may be acceptable.
The pin is neutral with the long/blank shank.

Yes the hitch has bent pins since we bought this shank, with our 2015 Cherokee TT, because the long shank wouldn’t work with that trailer. This is the third truck that this shank has been used on with the same results. This pin has bent the worst by far. Others haven’t been nearly as bad.

Both travel trailers that I’ve pulled with this shank and bent pins with should NEVER bend a pin. I’m using 1200lb WD bars, set correctly, tongue weights under 900 lbs and trailer weights 8500 and less. All of these pins are specd for 10,000lbs and working in the automotive engineering sector, I can tell you that ratings are on the safe side of allowable. Hitch equipment is no exception or at least isn’t by law.

I’m going to take the truck to the trailer parts store today and fit a new shank to the truck. I’d never feel comfortable towing our travel trailer with a “re-drilled” shank. 👍🏻
 

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I agree. Like I mentioned, the "high rise" ball may be an option. It looks like you were only 1"-2" short with the original shank.

Re-drilled in the vertical if it did not go through the weld would be just as strong as the original drilled holes. Most of the forces are resolved through the gusset on the back side.

Don't know how long you have had that new shank, but if its a Curt, it might be worth getting in touch with them. Especially looking at the curt website and how expensive just the shank for one of those is priced at.
 

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I agree. Like I mentioned, the "high rise" ball may be an option. It looks like you were only 1"-2" short with the original shank.

Re-drilled in the vertical if it did not go through the weld would be just as strong as the original drilled holes. Most of the forces are resolved through the gusset on the back side.

Don't know how long you have had that new shank, but if its a Curt, it might be worth getting in touch with them. Especially looking at the curt website and how expensive just the shank for one of those is priced at.
I’ve had it for 5 years and it’s an off brand.

I was talking about opening/redrilling the dressed shank so the pin goes in smooth. On my way to the trailer supply store shortly. They are a Curt dealer so I would assume that they have a shank that will work with my hitch. The WD bar head is Reese but that will work on any shank.
 
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