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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
HI, first off I have a 59 chevy truck that I just finished doing an original (original is easy) I parted out another but now I want to build a second twin with the old body I have.

I need a new frame and I have a crazy thought of putting in a GM Diesel engine from late 90's. I have found several old worker trucks 3500's that would be great donors for drivetrain and even might be able to use its frame if there isn't to much cutting and welding. I want to create a towing beast this time.

My main question is it worth ... or can it even be done is to remove the emissions for these diesel engines? i.e. for someone that isn't a mechanical engineer.
If I picked up a high millage downer (of course get engine rebuilt.) strip off the body ... I have a bad feeling that I will find a spiderweb of electronics that I won't need but won't be able to identify what I do need.

It seams like everyone plops in a 350 into these classics.
 

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HI, first off I have a 59 chevy truck that I just finished doing an original (original is easy) I parted out another but now I want to build a second twin with the old body I have.

I need a new frame and I have a crazy thought of putting in a GM Diesel engine from late 90's. I have found several old worker trucks 3500's that would be great donors for drivetrain and even might be able to use its frame if there isn't to much cutting and welding. I want to create a towing beast this time.

My main question is it worth ... or can it even be done is to remove the emissions for these diesel engines? i.e. for someone that isn't a mechanical engineer.
If I picked up a high millage downer (of course get engine rebuilt.) strip off the body ... I have a bad feeling that I will find a spiderweb of electronics that I won't need but won't be able to identify what I do need.

It seams like everyone plops in a 350 into these classics.

If you're not ready to take on a massive task, I'd try looking for a 12V Cummins.
It sounds like you're wanting to put a 6.5 in this truck, not a 6.6 Duramax. Correct me if I'm wrong, but you said late 90s.

You can do whatever you'd like, it just depends on how far you're willing to go and how much you're willing to spend.
Go on YouTube and you'll find thousands of videos like cummastang I think it is, a really nice... 54' Ford I believe it is with a 12v. :thumb
 

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U want to make it awesome...6v53t Detroit diesel...easy to work with fairly available no emissions and cooler than iced lizard shit
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ya looking at the difference between Cummins vs Duramax,
HA ha I like the idea of Detroit diesel but that is hard core. :)

I'm mostly browsing for a good complete running doner with high miles, want it chevy to stay true to brand, have a $5,000 dollar budget for a doner and what I see it isn't hard to find one. looking at a 2500 from 2007.
Since I don't have one on hand to take apart just wondering if its just unplugging certain wires here or there to dig down to the root engine or is it so intertwined that it is imposable to run without every wire in place?
I understand 80% of electronics are for emissions but since I don't need emissions is it as simple as pulling 80% of select wiring, or do I have to come up with a new logic board to run it.
 

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Ya looking at the difference between Cummins vs Duramax,
HA ha I like the idea of Detroit diesel but that is hard core. :)

I'm mostly browsing for a good complete running doner with high miles, want it chevy to stay true to brand, have a $5,000 dollar budget for a doner and what I see it isn't hard to find one. looking at a 2500 from 2007.
Since I don't have one on hand to take apart just wondering if its just unplugging certain wires here or there to dig down to the root engine or is it so intertwined that it is imposable to run without every wire in place?
I understand 80% of electronics are for emissions but since I don't need emissions is it as simple as pulling 80% of select wiring, or do I have to come up with a new logic board to run it.
Your harness basically lays on top of the engine and around it. It isn't really that bad as people put it out to be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have found several more then 10 good donar trucks way cheaper then buying a frame and engine alone. (salvage title to high milage are below $5,000). Thank you for the input I would like to get one mid 2000's a tone available in this window,
I will need to plug in the frames into my computer to see how they align with each other.

Visually off the web they look about $2000 worth of cutting and welding apart.
and New frame for a 59 chevy cost over $8,000 and built for street racing not towing. :)

I just worry if I got a truck with duramax engine and carefully took it apart, basically all body off if I could someone with a average knowledge of electronics, be able to isolate the function of the engine and get to back running.

I guess on a scale one to ten (ten being easy) for someone that knows the basics of engines can rebuild a classic 350 without a problem. Be able to figure out a basic engine like this what was running.

I ask this for I never worked / tore down a post 1978 car. It appears I could buy a 2005 Silverado for about $5,000 in my garage (and that isn't including the parts I could sale off). or I could buy everything piece by piece for a little over $20,000 (I need a ton of stuff rear drive train) like a ton of stuff other then body.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
HA HA, I thought it was a original idea ... nope "ApacheMax" already started it.

To bad the guys appear to be put in place ... see if fits ... then weld people ... and didn't model the frames in Cad to check alignments. They totally put the cab 2" too much forward.

But thank you for the help, really got my head together, will be clicking through the Silverado 2500 auctions for the next 6 months, even GOV actions would be sweet if lucky. Just don't kill me if I chicken out and drop down to a Vortec.
I first have to model the Silverado frame in CAD and compare the alignments with my apache becouse I feel those ApacheMax people just winged on the frame so I think it could be tighter.

Thank you. for the help though.
 

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I hope I didn't ruin your dreams bud.

Just trying to help.
It's literally a body swap is what you're looking at. It literally wouldn't make sense to reinforce the frame when a modern uodated frame can be had without any problem. Their issue was a ccsb frame with a standard cab long bed.
 

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