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My two cents worth...I did some reading from others posts about carrier bearings and u-joints and thought I would share my job and hope it helps someone else.
I had a low rpm vibration and discovered my carrier bearing was going bad, rubber around it mainly. I purchased the bearing at O'reilly's, mistake, and decided NOT to get a shop press. I removed the old carrier bearing by carefully cutting it at an angle with my angle grinder and then a chisel once I was almost through it to pop it off. Yes I did knick the shaft but didn't matter. The bearing from O'Reilly didn't fit and wasn't the correct fit so I had to suck it up and pay 178.00 at dealer. Anyway I put the bearing and shield in the oven at 150 deg and the shaft in a bucket of ice water and salt, not sure if this worked like we hoped, and it went on about 1/8 inch and had to tap the new one on with a punch on the inner race without much difficulty! The U-joints had to be beat off using a socket and vice with the drive shaft in vice at welds. However be careful not to let it slip and dent the driveshaft like we did just barely. Found one of the joints to be dry and stiff which was probably the main cause of the vibration. All done and drives smooth!!!
I hope this helps someone else with the main points being...
1. Buy the correct bearing from dealer or internet (cheaper) part # 88934865.
2. You do not need a shop press, however may be a little easier.
3. You can do this on your own or with a friend, which is how I did it making it much better! About a 3 hour job if you have the right parts.

Good luck and hope this helps others.
Gus

2003 GMC Sierra Duramax crew cab long bed
 

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My two cents worth...I did some reading from others posts about carrier bearings and u-joints and thought I would share my job and hope it helps someone else.
I had a low rpm vibration and discovered my carrier bearing was going bad, rubber around it mainly. I purchased the bearing at O'reilly's, mistake, and decided NOT to get a shop press. I removed the old carrier bearing by carefully cutting it at an angle with my angle grinder and then a chisel once I was almost through it to pop it off. Yes I did knick the shaft but didn't matter. The bearing from O'Reilly didn't fit and wasn't the correct fit so I had to suck it up and pay 178.00 at dealer. Anyway I put the bearing and shield in the oven at 150 deg and the shaft in a bucket of ice water and salt, not sure if this worked like we hoped, and it went on about 1/8 inch and had to tap the new one on with a punch on the inner race without much difficulty! The U-joints had to be beat off using a socket and vice with the drive shaft in vice at welds. However be careful not to let it slip and dent the driveshaft like we did just barely. Found one of the joints to be dry and stiff which was probably the main cause of the vibration. All done and drives smooth!!!
I hope this helps someone else with the main points being...
1. Buy the correct bearing from dealer or internet (cheaper) part # 88934865.
2. You do not need a shop press, however may be a little easier.
3. You can do this on your own or with a friend, which is how I did it making it much better! About a 3 hour job if you have the right parts.

Good luck and hope this helps others.
Gus

2003 GMC Sierra Duramax crew cab long bed
Just buy the bearing from a Dana-Spicer distributor, you can get the OEM bearing for around $60, there are several part numbers but 212258-1x is the cheapest. The only difference is the 212258-1x does not come with studs or the 1/4" shim. Not all trucks came with the shim, and you can re use your old studs/shim or even use bolts instead of studs. For comparison, the bearing that comes with the shim For comparison, the bearing that comes with the studs and shim is $95 (Spicer part# 212032-1x) . The spicer bearing IS the OEM bearing, so buying it through a Spicer distributor/driveline shop is essentially cutting out the middle man, AKA the dealer.
 

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Just did my carrier bearing. Decided to go with the urethane from Inland Empire so maybe it will last a little longer. I went ahead and took it to a shop since I didn't have a press. The cost of the removal and replacement took about 40 minutes initially and cost $45.

I left and the truck felt great, till I got on the freeway and got the truck up around 65-75mph. Had one hell of a vibration so as suspected the drive shaft needed to be balanced. Took it back to the shop and the machine they had in house couldn't spin it fast enough to get it balanced out so they had to take it to another shop with a more robust machine that could run it about 3500rpm.

Now the truck runs great with mild to moderate acceleration all the way up to 100mph. However with moderate to hard acceleration I get a pretty harsh vibration between 30 and 45mph. Taking it back to them to recheck the balance and driveshaft angle. Other than that I think a lot of it is the urethane bearing, no give and it transfers everything to the frame.

Thoughts/suggestions?
 

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Just did my carrier bearing. Decided to go with the urethane from Inland Empire so maybe it will last a little longer. I went ahead and took it to a shop since I didn't have a press. The cost of the removal and replacement took about 40 minutes initially and cost $45.

I left and the truck felt great, till I got on the freeway and got the truck up around 65-75mph. Had one hell of a vibration so as suspected the drive shaft needed to be balanced. Took it back to the shop and the machine they had in house couldn't spin it fast enough to get it balanced out so they had to take it to another shop with a more robust machine that could run it about 3500rpm.

Now the truck runs great with mild to moderate acceleration all the way up to 100mph. However with moderate to hard acceleration I get a pretty harsh vibration between 30 and 45mph. Taking it back to them to recheck the balance and driveshaft angle. Other than that I think a lot of it is the urethane bearing, no give and it transfers everything to the frame.

Thoughts/suggestions?

Yeah, Im not a fan of the stiffer rubber mount for the bearing, its going to transfer more of the vibration to the vehicle, AND, IMHO with less give it will be tougher on the actual bearing portion of the CB.

The harsh Vibration between 30-45 mph sounds like it could be a worn "stub and slip". The splined shaft and slip yoke that are in the middle of your driveshaft.
 
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