I put aftermarket controller in and worked better. I wish there was a work around to totally redo the wiring from cab to back, at least new harnesses etc. my trucks a bit older and well been salting her for years!
I follow problems about the ITBC system pretty closely and have found that when your truck tells you to “check trailer wiring”, that is exactly where the problem is about 90% of the time. And the problem is usually with the trailer wire grounding, or more properly, not grounding, or even shorting. I'd spend a little time checking the trailer's wiring, particularly the electrical brakes, and you'll likely discover the problem.We also have “check trailer wiring” notification along with the annoying sounds.
I used a P3 on my 2013,,, worked great.. Even though the ITBC was bypassed I still got an occasional brake message in the dash, because the OEM controller was loose in the dash..We’re experiencing the same issue. We just purchased a 2015 GMC 2500HD along with a 2007 feather lite trailer. New brakes were installed along with a junction box and a new cable. Our mechanic was trying to save us a little money using a cheaper plug that was somewhat loose in the truck receptacle so we were having connection issues. After installing a better plug we now have brakes, turn signals, brake lights, emergency flashers and running lights We also have “check trailer wiring” notification along with the annoying sounds.
After searching forums this weekend we’re thinking it would be best for us to have an aftermarket controller installed. We looking at the Tekonsha P3. Especially considering all the problems with the factory integrated system.
My question is, will this solve the problem that is happening because the receptacle has the brake and ground at the top, or will that still be a possible problem? Thanks for any responses. John
Correct, run a new power lead from controller to rear harness, or find the power lead under the hood and tap it there...Thank you.
I tested the trailer plug ground pin to the metal on the hitch getting good continuity. As I mentioned earlier all systems are working, but we’re still getting the display and dinging. We’re thinking about installing a Tekonsha P3 bypassing the factory controller. Tekonsha says I’ll need to use a blue wire from the P3 back to the 7 pin.
Again, thank you. I would like to try doing this installation myself. The controller aspect seems pretty straight forward. Could someone advise me where or how to pass the new wire through the firewall? JohnCorrect, run a new power lead from controller to rear harness, or find the power lead under the hood and tap it there...
Did this fix your problem? Sounds like all other suggestions are hit-or-miss. Having the same issue with 2016 RAM 1500. Thanks in advance.So thanks for the replies guy. I hit the original poster up on PM. He linked his problem to the true alter. I went and looked at my trailer today. I popped one tire off and got under the drum and found a broken wire running to my magnet for the emergency brake.
I have the part on order to replace but I’m pretty sure that’s going to be the problem.
I recently hit a curb pretty good in a tight gas steroid parking lot. Must have knocked the wire loose and got it stuck inside the bearing as it rotated. I’m guess it was intermittent If the wires some how made a connection and made it turn off.