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it does you no good if you are under 500rwhp
 

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damn it.

the 06+ intakes are the ones that flow fantastic up to 500hp.

the lb7 and LLY intakes are pretty much junk. I don't know where everyone read that ALL year models have a great intake design.

that being said. replace your turbo mouthpiece. it is a terrible design on the LLY. either buy the AFE bladerunner or you can buy an LBZ mouthpiece and modify it a bit.

From there either install a stock LBZ intake, they flow very good and the filters are very efficient throughout all %clogged levels. filters are cheap too. my source- http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/r...filter-GM-duramax-diesel/erm/productDetail.do

if you want a aftermarket CAI stick with S&B (dry filter, oil causes headaches for some) or a Bill's Custom Intakes.

EDIT: not calling you out or flaming you bigblackmax. I just see this A LOT, LOL

manufacturers may claim hp boosts etc. but this guy on duramaxdiesels with an LBZ tested both at the track with no noticeable difference
I compared both the stock one with the PPE mod and an S&B at a track on the same night, ran the same times and trap speeds with both intakes, so its really up to you.
So unless you want the looks or turbo sound of a aftermarket, people sell stock LBZ or LMM intakes pretty cheap. if not just getcha a regular old CAI
 

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If your truck is stock there is a airbox mod you can do. Just use the search tab. I use S&B and have had no problems their one of the more reasonably priced intakes.
 

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If your truck is stock there is a airbox mod you can do. Just use the search tab. I use S&B and have had no problems their one of the more reasonably priced intakes.
are you talking about the 06+ intake mod??

I have heard that the 01-05 airbox mod is crap. causes fitlers to be toast at >10,000 miles. I wouldn't hack into your 05 intake, save it incase you ever need to use it again or sell it
 

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are you talking about the 06+ intake mod??

I have heard that the 01-05 airbox mod is crap. causes fitlers to be toast at >10,000 miles. I wouldn't hack into your 05 intake, save it incase you ever need to use it again or sell it
Ya I didn't realize what year of truck he has until now, I always look at the posters sig which has nothing.
 

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I opened this thread and knew exactly what would be said before I opened it, haha...

lddrew is right on track.

S&B, Banks, AFE, or Bills Intakes are some options. Avoid a K&N filter and dry elements are better imo for the average user. An oiled filter is ok, but make sure you clean MAF frequently. I recommend cleaning it a few days after re-oiling your filter, you also want to make sure you don't over oil your filter.
 

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Ya I didn't realize what year of truck he has until now, I always look at the posters sig which has nothing.
i gotcha man, yeah took me a minute too then i saw it in his username. it's all good :drink

I opened this thread and knew exactly what would be said before I opened it, haha...

lddrew is right on track.

S&B, Banks, AFE, or Bills Intakes are some options. Avoid a K&N filter and dry elements are better imo for the average user. An oiled filter is ok, but make sure you clean MAF frequently. I recommend cleaning it a few days after re-oiling your filter, you also want to make sure you don't over oil your filter.
thanks tony, and x2 to everything you said

so were can i find the afe mouthpiece and how much
AFE 46-60029 LLY Turbo Mouth Piece for 04.5-05 LLY GM 6.6L Duramax
 

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This is my 06 lbz set up on my 05 lly i had to modify the mounting plate for the newer air box also had to get the maf recalibrated for the 06. I now have a CAI by K&N and it has given me significantly cooler temps and more whistle.


Sent from m
 

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I'd stick to Banks or S&B myself.

Be careful with metal intake tubes because you can actually raise the temp of the incoming pre-turbo air (ie not good).
 

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^ I've read that before on this site that metal tubes can make it hotter but you honestly think that tube will get hot enough to change any air temps comin in that fast? Not being a smart ass just asking
 

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Not really.

Most metal intakes are made out of aluminum which doesn't retain heat very well.

At a full stop, you might see a ~10-15 IAT difference between plastic and aluminum. Once you start moving, and there is air flow to get all that heat out of the engine bay, there is even less.

You could easily offset the difference between an aluminum based intake system vs a plastic one by someone farting in front of your vehicle.

Steel might be different, as it retains heat better than aluminum, but I dont think I have ever seen someone make an intake with steel.
 

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Thank you, I've been hesitant to buy a full metal power afe one bit night just send it now
 

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Not really.

Most metal intakes are made out of aluminum which doesn't retain heat very well.

At a full stop, you might see a ~10-15 IAT difference between plastic and aluminum. Once you start moving, and there is air flow to get all that heat out of the engine bay, there is even less.

You could easily offset the difference between an aluminum based intake system vs a plastic one by someone farting in front of your vehicle.

Steel might be different, as it retains heat better than aluminum, but I dont think I have ever seen someone make an intake with steel.

Steel and aluminum do have different heat transfer rates, but it's not really a big deal since the real issue is steady state heat transfer (ie sustained high engine bay temps). For the same reason that aluminum is used in radiators, it's not a good idea in areas where you want to keep engine heat away from incoming air (ie discourage heat transfer). On the flip side, the boost tubes have hot compressed air well above engine bay temps so in that case you would want to encourage as much heat transfer as possible, thus aluminum is a great choice there. Plastic does a much better job as an insulator and therefore is best suited for the pre-turbo side. Heat transfer isn't a phenomenon that only occurs at a dead stop either........just try hauling a decent 5th wheel up a good incline on a hot summer day with an aluminum intake and I'll bet you'll wish you had something different before cresting the top. The LLY's are especially succeptible so even with an aux radiator I wouldn't suggest it.

I'm not the only one either:
http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/0...7-intake-upgrade-waste-money.html#post1284174
 

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What really happens when you get hot air in your turbo? And most twin set ups I see have a aluminum intake why is that?
 

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Check out Bill's Custom Intakes first! He has 4" intake tubes and some really good intake options. E-mail him any questions you have and he will help you out. Alot of guys on here go thru him. You will get faster spool up, and more turbo sound too. And you can buy a new mouthpiece from him too.
 

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What really happens when you get hot air in your turbo? And most twin set ups I see have a aluminum intake why is that?


Hot air going into a turbo just lowers its efficiency and that of the overall engine.
On an LLY it's a bigger pain since they already have overheating issues.


They have aluminum intakes on twins because each setup is custom and plastic molds are very expensive.
 

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Steel and aluminum do have different heat transfer rates, but it's not really a big deal since the real issue is steady state heat transfer (ie sustained high engine bay temps). For the same reason that aluminum is used in radiators, it's not a good idea in areas where you want to keep engine heat away from incoming air (ie discourage heat transfer). On the flip side, the boost tubes have hot compressed air well above engine bay temps so in that case you would want to encourage as much heat transfer as possible, thus aluminum is a great choice there. Plastic does a much better job as an insulator and therefore is best suited for the pre-turbo side. Heat transfer isn't a phenomenon that only occurs at a dead stop either........just try hauling a decent 5th wheel up a good incline on a hot summer day with an aluminum intake and I'll bet you'll wish you had something different before cresting the top. The LLY's are especially succeptible so even with an aux radiator I wouldn't suggest it.

I'm not the only one either:
http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/0...7-intake-upgrade-waste-money.html#post1284174
Having an aluminum intake will make a truck blow up if it's hauling a 5th wheel.



Here's some dyno material for you

https://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=tQetE2V6iXkPIRG35oX6CFQ&single=true&gid=1&output=html

The Cold air inductions intake is aluminum, and provided the least amount of temperature climb and the lowest IAT's (excluding the intakes that positioned the filters in a non-stock location). An intake on that list that has the same filter location, but is made of plastic is the Air Raid.... which actually produced HIGHER IATS (3-9*F), and higher temperature climb (8*F).

as a mentioned before.... negligable enough that someone farting in front of your vehicle can offset it.
 
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