Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum banner
  • Hey Everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this months Ride of the Month Challenge!
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I am hoping somebody might have a solution. I have an 07.5 d max. About 5 years ago i deleted the dpf installed an AFE intake and installed a small single milage tune from atp. Everything was great until about a year ago after i cleaned the air filter(dry) On hot days after coming of the highway to a stop, i get the p0101 and reduced engine power. Only after coming from a long drive on the highway and the first stop. I can clear it and then its fine. Last year i did try replacing the maf sensor and recently installed an egr blocker plate. I have also replaced the hump hoses on the intake. I am at a loss as to what is causing this. It doesn't do it in the winter. Will putting my stock air filter housing and filter back in work ok with the tune? This all started after i cleaned my filter. Thanks for any and all help.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,057 Posts
You cleaned the filter.

Is it a foam filter by any chance?

If so, have you tried putting your stock filter back on? In all honesty the stock filter does a better job that the aftermarket setups. Doesn't look as sexy though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,132 Posts
Might be a leaky EGR valve, if you still have yours.



# PIP4932C: Duramax Diesel Airflow Leak Equivalency Ratio Or Induction System Leak Indication And P0101 - (Aug 15, 2014)
Subject: Duramax Diesel Airflow Leak Equivalency Ratio Or Induction System Leak Indication And P0101 Models: 2007-2015 Chevrolet Express, Kodiak, Silverado 2007-2015 GMC Savana, Sierra, Topkick Equipped with the 6.6L Duramax Diesel Engine RPO code LGH, LML This PI was superseded to update Recommendation/Instructions and Model Years. Please discard PIP4932B.
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern
A dealer may have encountered a customer concern of a SES light on and DTC P0101 has been found. During diagnosis of P0101 the dealer technician will be directed to monitor the Airflow Leak Equivalency Ratio (ALER for 2007 - 2013) or Induction System Leak Indication (ISLI for 2014 - 2015).
This ratio will help decide where to start looking for an air intake leak
Recommendation/Instructions
Complete the current SI diagnostics for any symptoms or DTCs found. If during diagnosis the tech has found that the ALER/ISLI is above or below the specification the tech will have to carefully check for leaks in the air intake. Below is a description of where to look depending on the actual ALER/ISLI reading.
Note : There can be no modifications to air intake, exhaust, ECM calibrations, or MAF sensor to utilize these diagnostics. Note : The EGR valve position must be at 0% or commanded to 0% for the ALER/ISLI to be used to determine a potential location of a leak. If the EGR position is not at 0%, using the ALER/ISLI is not valid Note : The specification for ALER/ISLI is different depending on the engine in the vehicle. Please make sure the correct specification is being used from the description below. If the ALER reading (with EGR position at 0%) is less than 0.86:1 for a 2007-2010 LMM engine:
Inspect for anything which could result in an unexpected rise in measured airflow. This would include leaks in the boosted side of the Turbo (not including the EGR valve) or a shifted/skewed MAF sensor. In rare cases, an aftermarket low restriction exhaust system could also cause low readings.
If the ALER reading (with EGR position at 0%) is greater than 1.20:1 for 2007-2010 LMM engine:
Inspect for anything which could result in an unexpected drop in measured airflow. This would include leaks in the unboosted side of the Turbo (between the MAF sensor and turbo), a shifted/skewed MAF sensor, damaged Turbo, exhaust leaks between the exhaust ports and the turbo, or a leaky EGR valve when closed.
If the ALER/ISLI reading (with EGR position at 0%) is less than 0.90:1 for a 2010-2015 LGH or LML engine:
Inspect for anything which could result in an unexpected drop in measured airflow. This would include leaks in the unboosted side of the Turbo (between the MAF sensor and turbo), a shifted/skewed MAF sensor, damaged Turbo, exhaust leaks between the exhaust ports and the turbo, or a leaky EGR valve when closed
If the ALER/ISLI reading (with EGR position at 0%) is greater than 1.10:1 for a 2010-2015 LGH or LML engine:
Inspect for anything which could result in an unexpected rise in measured airflow. This would include leaks in the boosted side of the Turbo (not including the EGR valve) or a shifted/skewed MAF sensor. In rare cases, an after-market low restriction exhaust system could also cause high readings.


Use the current SI procedure for Charge Air Cooler Diagnosis (Induction System Smoke Test), Charge Air Cooler Diagnosis (Full System Air Leak Test), or Charge Air Cooler Diagnosis (Charge Air Cooler Air Leak Test) as needed.
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys, I will put the stock airbox and filter in and see what happens as well as change the fuel filter as it's almost due.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,363 Posts
Do you have a device that can read your MAF g/s ?
Depending if ATP left your MAF stock calibration or re-calibrated it for more airflow, when you cleaned it you might have blown some holes in it with water pressure.
Hold the filter up to the sun and look thru the filter, if you can see sun light thru it you damaged the filter which allows to much airflow thru it, setting off the code.
Stock MAF calibration your usually good up to about 40 g/s re-calibrated maybe 45-48 this is while idling, over these numbers the code will set.

YES, stock airfilter filters better that's obvious BUT
Oh well, he'll find out if he goes back to stock the true differences.
Just to give you a idea upper left corner 41.8 idling, I would get the code with the stock MAF calibration.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,363 Posts
? How did you clean the airfilter and dry it.
Direct water pressure will damage the filter, drying with compressed air will damage the filter.
Best way IMO is to have 2 airfilters, this way you can R & R the filter with the clean one eliminating down time and clean the dirty one at your leisure and let it dry naturally, this is the best way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I cleaned the filter in the sink. No pressure of heat. I always let the filters dry for a day. I would never use compressed air. I will check the maf g/s. Thanks.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,057 Posts
Hey guys I am hoping somebody might have a solution. I have an 07.5 d max. About 5 years ago i deleted the dpf installed an AFE intake and installed a small single milage tune from atp. Everything was great until about a year ago after i cleaned the air filter(dry) On hot days after coming of the highway to a stop, i get the p0101 and reduced engine power. Only after coming from a long drive on the highway and the first stop. I can clear it and then its fine. Last year i did try replacing the maf sensor and recently installed an egr blocker plate. I have also replaced the hump hoses on the intake. I am at a loss as to what is causing this. It doesn't do it in the winter. Will putting my stock air filter housing and filter back in work ok with the tune? This all started after i cleaned my filter. Thanks for any and all help.
Only when hot..........not in winter.............Have you checked the condition of your braided 1/2" fuel hoses between the fuel tank and the CP3? There is a GM TSB about the one beneath the drivers side and the one on the LR of the engine coming up from the frame. Particularly when the fuel gets hot, (return fuel is warm and a low fuel tank level exacerbates this issue) the lines can collapse restricting fuel.

It does not necessarily sound like this is yoru issue but it is something for you to consider in any event.

Here is a link:

https://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/...und-fix-p0087-when-under-load.html#post775709

In addition there was also a thread on here where one member had to resort to running a completely flexible line all the way from the tank to the Fuel Filter. He didnt really have to, it turned out the hose on top of the tank was the culprit. He went a bit overboard but it was a LONG and Very frustrating journey for him.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,363 Posts
I cleaned the filter in the sink. No pressure of heat. I always let the filters dry for a day. I would never use compressed air. I will check the maf g/s. Thanks.
Many people will that’s why I mentioned this.
https://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/aftermarket-mods/999295-new-afe-bad-filters-grenadeing-turbo.html
Check this thread’s YouTube video with the idiots using compressed air blowing directly on the filter media damaging it, then bashing aFe’s filters trashing out the turbo. Duh

407 has a good point on what to check :thumb
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,363 Posts
FYI, dry airfilters do NOT filter as good as the oiled ones, if your in a dusty environment oiled would be better.
Maybe if you use a sock that’s for the filters this would catch more dirt.
I know some people have had issues with oiled filters, but this was from over oiling.
I’ve used oiled aftermarket airfilters on every vehicle I’ve owned since 1995, I’ve never had any issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,170 Posts
FYI, dry airfilters do NOT filter as good as the oiled ones, if your in a dusty environment oiled would be better.
Maybe if you use a sock that’s for the filters this would catch more dirt.
I know some people have had issues with oiled filters, but this was from over oiling.
I’ve used oiled aftermarket airfilters on every vehicle I’ve owned since 1995, I’ve never had any issues.
You are correct.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,057 Posts
FYI, dry airfilters do NOT filter as good as the oiled ones, if your in a dusty environment oiled would be better.
Maybe if you use a sock that’s for the filters this would catch more dirt.
I know some people have had issues with oiled filters, but this was from over oiling.
I’ve used oiled aftermarket airfilters on every vehicle I’ve owned since 1995, I’ve never had any issues.
One of the other issues with the oiled filters is the owner failing to service and oil them as they require. Without the oil they are not nearly as good at filtering as the paper filters.

I have NO doubt you service yours correctly but many do not. 'dunno;
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,363 Posts
Every 5k-6k I swap out for a clean airfilter and it’s usually pretty dirty.
That where all I can do is 'uhNo when people think they can go 25-50 k on the stock filter.

If you’re able to monitor MAF g/s, after you change to a clean filter, note the MAF g/s reading while idling.
When the numbers drop about 5 g/s change out your filter.
If you don’t then your no better than the guys that don’t service their oiled or dry filters.

One guy I know said his was around 35-38 clean stock filter after a few years it was down to 25, he couldn’t figure out why he was having a few issues.

Monitoring the MAF g/s will tell you when you really should change your airfilter.
As far as the owners not servicing their filter, that’s on them, that’s not the fault of the product.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well i put the stock air box and filter back in. So far so good. I probably won't know for sure till next summer. We are supposed to get snow next weekend. Does anyone know where i can get a maf sensor gasket? I have tried GM and all the local parts stores. Nobody seems to know. Thanks again for the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,363 Posts
Did you ever check your MAF g/s to see how high the numbers was when idling ?
If your not careful cleaning and allowing the filter to dry naturally this could cause thinning of the filter media, which allows more airflow going thru than the MAF is calibrated for setting off the code.
You could have more air coming thru a section that’s not sealed, knowing the MAF g/s would be a sign of this happening.

The hotter the engine small changes.
Like hot temps where I’m at my g/s is around 40-41 idling cold as the engine gets to operating temps 38-39, now with cooler temps in the 70’s my g/s is 44-45 idling cold at operating temps 41-42.
Recently one guy found his g/s was at 46 and having this problem,, he found a section that wasn't sealed allowing more airflow, causing higher g/s fixed it, no more issues.

Stock your not having this problem, if you haven’t checked out what I’ve suggested to verify, then it’s best you stay stock.
Glad you’ve solved your issues.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top