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I currently have a 99 2500 Burban with a tired big block. I have considered buying a crew cab in the spring but I use my burban for hauling not only the camper but the family. I have read a lot of the threads here about the duramax conversions on the 01 and up burbans but haven't seen anything about putting a duramax in my vintage burban. Anyone out there have any suggestions ??
 

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It would be easier to swap a 12v cummins
 

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TDI is right though. That's why you can't find much information on older vehicles with the dmax engine. People generally would put 12 valves in them because of the easier wiring.
 

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Do a google search for Duraburb and you will find a dealer in Tx that sells what you are looking for.
 

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Hate to sound like I'm raining on your parade but..............

Well yes TDI is right, the GMT400 88-99 platform did have a option for the 4BT in P35 step vans, it was mated to the TH400 and 700R4, thats pretty straight forward and even OEM functional (an important consideration when doing a professional scale swap).

Since the Dmax was not around in the 90's there is no way to do it 100%, its a PITA but you can swap a stand alone 6.6 into Pinto if you wanted, just not very practical.

Another consideration out side of the professional value of the finished product is end value, is it (90's era GM) really going to be worth what you have in it? Probably not. I would recommend dumping the 99 and moving up to a 2003, then at least you can get into a LBZ, If your going to invest that much (10K for a DIY) might as well have something you can get your money back out of years down the road.

just our 4 cents here at DuraBurb

talk to thefermanator at dieselplace, he did one and said never again.
 

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I had a high mileage '99 6.5 Suburban, loved it very much and put a lot into it to keep it running flawlessly BUT I looked at the conversion route and the easiest was to the 12V Cummins at about 15K by Predator of California. Then I had to look at 'what else' I would want to do to it after sinking that much money into the motor and what the end product would be and then how much it would be worth. It would have been a labor of love because I would have had to keep it forever. Then I started looking at the D-Max conversions and fell in love with one done by Duraburb, great work! I had to 'trade up' to the Duraburb and I am happily getting 19 mpg AND have an awesomely performing truck that will do just about anything I ask of it - including making my wife smile when she steps on the pedal to get away from a crazy driver or crowding truck, it just MOVES like the wind! The combination of the Suburban and the smooth and powerful Duramax is just crazy good and GM is led by morons for not putting one out!
 

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I have seen some of duraburbs work first hand, and they are awesome. Next snowmobile trailer pulling rig may just have to be one of those!
 

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Hello everyone. I want to put a lbz in my 2004 burb. The problem is I don't want to buy a doner truck. I was hoping I could just find all the parts on eBay. So my question is what are all the parts I will need to order? I was thinking about keeping my current 1500 diffs. So I know I need the lbz engine, Allison transmission, t case, lbz instrument cluster, 4x4 controller. What am I missing from that list? Also do I need new fuel tanks or can I use the current one?

Thanks, Joe
 

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Hello everyone. I want to put a lbz in my 2004 burb. The problem is I don't want to buy a doner truck. I was hoping I could just find all the parts on eBay. So my question is what are all the parts I will need to order? I was thinking about keeping my current 1500 diffs. So I know I need the lbz engine, Allison transmission, t case, lbz instrument cluster, 4x4 controller. What am I missing from that list? Also do I need new fuel tanks or can I use the current one?

Thanks, Joe
I don't know what the complete swap list is but you're going to need a wiring harness. I think you will save money buying a wrecked donor truck. Why would you want to keep the 1500 diffs? They are car diffs and not very strong at all. I had a old 6.2 Diesel 1500 Suburban with 33x12.5 tires that ate axels, wheel bearings and crown and pinions regularly. Was about to do a 14 bolt swap when a 6.5 turbo 2500 Suburban found me. No more axel issues.
 

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Thanks for the reply. I wanted to keep the diffs because I just had the rear rebuilt but I dont need to keep them. What's the best site to look on for a wrecked one?
 

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we do this for a living so let us offer you some sound advise, I would never recommend a 1500 Dmax project as a first time build, it is very extensive, go 2500.

A) Dont build a 1500 906 (Suburban Body) SUV, it has no resale value as its not 3/4 ton. Also you will need to do radical frame alterations not necessary on the 2500. You will blow the 8.5" rear diff out if you don't de-tune the LBZ.

B) When we build 1500 706 (Tahoe Body) as go fast toys they always get 11.5" Diffs

C) When we build these we start with complete donors for 2 reasons
1) You dont know the condition of a motor on the ground, actual miles, maint history
2) You will spend far more in time & money tracking everything down, a whole LBZ p/u will set you back 10K traditionally, the LLY & LB7 drop the cost 1500+/- per step backwards, not worth it IMO.

You are venturing down a fun adventure but remember you are building a 7-10K SUV into a 25K +/- SUV and you will invest a solid 10-12K to build it. When investing that kind of money do it right, then you will have the resale value and a relatively maint free product.

Just some free advise from a co that builds 4 per month :)
take it for what its worth
 

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we do this for a living so let us offer you some sound advise, I would never recommend a 1500 Dmax project as a first time build, it is very extensive, go 2500.

A) Dont build a 1500 906 (Suburban Body) SUV, it has no resale value as its not 3/4 ton. Also you will need to do radical frame alterations not necessary on the 2500. You will blow the 8.5" rear diff out if you don't de-tune the LBZ.

B) When we build 1500 706 (Tahoe Body) as go fast toys they always get 11.5" Diffs

C) When we build these we start with complete donors for 2 reasons
1) You dont know the condition of a motor on the ground, actual miles, maint history
2) You will spend far more in time & money tracking everything down, a whole LBZ p/u will set you back 10K traditionally, the LLY & LB7 drop the cost 1500+/- per step backwards, not worth it IMO.

You are venturing down a fun adventure but remember you are building a 7-10K SUV into a 25K +/- SUV and you will invest a solid 10-12K to build it. When investing that kind of money do it right, then you will have the resale value and a relatively maint free product.

Just some free advise from a co that builds 4 per month :)
take it for what its worth
So to do the 1500 it's not just as simple as swapping in 3/4 ton axles? Is there custom fab stuff that needs to be made? If that's the case ill just have to wait untill I hve 20k saved up and send it on down to Florida.
 

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Duraburb advice

As a buyer of a Duraburb 2007 Suburban, they know what they are talking about, they have got the product down to a science, very high quality conversion- good advice!
 

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I'd like to build an LMM Avalanche at some point. If there was a Duramax option for the Av from the factory I would have bought one long ago.
 

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Alright so I found a burb just like mine in a 2500 and they will do a straight across trade. With my z71. I really like the z71. Would the z71 parts fit on the 2500?
 

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we do this for a living so let us offer you some sound advise, I would never recommend a 1500 Dmax project as a first time build, it is very extensive, go 2500.

A) Dont build a 1500 906 (Suburban Body) SUV, it has no resale value as its not 3/4 ton. Also you will need to do radical frame alterations not necessary on the 2500. You will blow the 8.5" rear diff out if you don't de-tune the LBZ.

B) When we build 1500 706 (Tahoe Body) as go fast toys they always get 11.5" Diffs

C) When we build these we start with complete donors for 2 reasons
1) You dont know the condition of a motor on the ground, actual miles, maint history
2) You will spend far more in time & money tracking everything down, a whole LBZ p/u will set you back 10K traditionally, the LLY & LB7 drop the cost 1500+/- per step backwards, not worth it IMO.

You are venturing down a fun adventure but remember you are building a 7-10K SUV into a 25K +/- SUV and you will invest a solid 10-12K to build it. When investing that kind of money do it right, then you will have the resale value and a relatively maint free product.

Just some free advise from a co that builds 4 per month :)
take it for what its worth

On average what do you guys usually pay for a doner? Also do you need a custom made drive shaft. If so where do you get them? And what's a good site to look for doners?

Thanks!
 

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On average what do you guys usually pay for a doner? Also do you need a custom made drive shaft. If so where do you get them? And what's a good site to look for doners?

Thanks!
we do this for a living so let us offer you some sound advise, I would never recommend a 1500 Dmax project as a first time build, it is very extensive, go 2500.

A) Dont build a 1500 906 (Suburban Body) SUV, it has no resale value as its not 3/4 ton. Also you will need to do radical frame alterations not necessary on the 2500. You will blow the 8.5" rear diff out if you don't de-tune the LBZ.

B) When we build 1500 706 (Tahoe Body) as go fast toys they always get 11.5" Diffs

C) When we build these we start with complete donors for 2 reasons
1) You dont know the condition of a motor on the ground, actual miles, maint history
2) You will spend far more in time & money tracking everything down, a whole LBZ p/u will set you back 10K traditionally, the LLY & LB7 drop the cost 1500+/- per step backwards, not worth it IMO.

You are venturing down a fun adventure but remember you are building a 7-10K SUV into a 25K +/- SUV and you will invest a solid 10-12K to build it. When investing that kind of money do it right, then you will have the resale value and a relatively maint free product.

Just some free advise from a co that builds 4 per month :)
take it for what its worth
I think he answered your price question, but I think that's for a good truck complete with history, not wrecked. I'd look on Craigs list and Kijiji in for a while you'll find a good wrecked one. I'm not sure how to access the salvage auctions to buy one from the insurance companies?
 
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