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Hate to sound like I'm raining on your parade but..............

Well yes TDI is right, the GMT400 88-99 platform did have a option for the 4BT in P35 step vans, it was mated to the TH400 and 700R4, thats pretty straight forward and even OEM functional (an important consideration when doing a professional scale swap).

Since the Dmax was not around in the 90's there is no way to do it 100%, its a PITA but you can swap a stand alone 6.6 into Pinto if you wanted, just not very practical.

Another consideration out side of the professional value of the finished product is end value, is it (90's era GM) really going to be worth what you have in it? Probably not. I would recommend dumping the 99 and moving up to a 2003, then at least you can get into a LBZ, If your going to invest that much (10K for a DIY) might as well have something you can get your money back out of years down the road.

just our 4 cents here at DuraBurb

talk to thefermanator at dieselplace, he did one and said never again.
 

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we do this for a living so let us offer you some sound advise, I would never recommend a 1500 Dmax project as a first time build, it is very extensive, go 2500.

A) Dont build a 1500 906 (Suburban Body) SUV, it has no resale value as its not 3/4 ton. Also you will need to do radical frame alterations not necessary on the 2500. You will blow the 8.5" rear diff out if you don't de-tune the LBZ.

B) When we build 1500 706 (Tahoe Body) as go fast toys they always get 11.5" Diffs

C) When we build these we start with complete donors for 2 reasons
1) You dont know the condition of a motor on the ground, actual miles, maint history
2) You will spend far more in time & money tracking everything down, a whole LBZ p/u will set you back 10K traditionally, the LLY & LB7 drop the cost 1500+/- per step backwards, not worth it IMO.

You are venturing down a fun adventure but remember you are building a 7-10K SUV into a 25K +/- SUV and you will invest a solid 10-12K to build it. When investing that kind of money do it right, then you will have the resale value and a relatively maint free product.

Just some free advise from a co that builds 4 per month :)
take it for what its worth
 

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Yes 406 the Z71 parts will swap onto the 2500

No the 2500 axles do not fit the 1500 as they are rear leaf spring and the 1500 is coil
converting it is a 1500.00 option, the front is not swappable.

you will have 10K in a wrecked junk truck, you'll either pay 8-10K for one with a relatively straight front clip and cooling system or 6K for one that needs parts and put another 2-4K into it to make it applicable, thats assuming you want to be in the 75-100K mi range, if you go up into the 250K mi range it can be half that but the resale wont be there later down the line.
Check Copart and IAAI

Yes it requires custom drive shafts, wiring, ac lines, etc, etc,

No Duramax Suburban is Plug-Play, the NBS LMM & LML are the worst of the bunch, we have had several show up over the years needing to be finished, many times its just as expensive to fix and replace whats wrong then if the client just came to us in the first place. Buyer beware at Youtube/DuraBurbinc was the worst so far needing a complete re-power Duramax.

If you aren't familiar with GM high speed LAN communication protocol, programming & wiring the LMM/LML realm usually lends a 7000LB paper weight

the standard rear for the 2500 Sub is the 2nd smallest at 9.5" (next to the Dana60 Quadrasteer at 9.25)
there was a tow option that got you the 10.5" you can tell the difference by looking at it, if the pinion snout has a 6 bolt flange then its a 10.5, you dont need to change it out as they are already a full floater

Hope it helps :)
 
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