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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Saw this on another forum, gathered all the pieces and put it on.


Items needed:
Coolant filter base is a Baldwin - cfb5000
Coolant filter baldwin is B5134, (I ordered that one, but they got me the FPPF?!?)
2 - 5/8 - 5/8 - 3/8 tees
8 hose clamps
3/8 heater hose 5ft should be enough
2 - 3/8 npt to 3/8 hose barbs
2 - 3/8 npt plugs
teflon tape
L bracket - about 6 inches long
2- 3/8 x 1 1/2 bolts + washers, lock washers, nuts











I will pull it off at about 300k (22,000 miles) and report back
 

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Looks good TSC...
 

· the world famous
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very nice!! ive always had them on my big trucks.. they do work and they are beneficial! nice post! i see a project in the near future!!
 

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Looks good. I'm thinking of tackling this project myself. Anything that will help in the long run:rockin
 

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where can you get a kit like this, and how much $$ are they going for?
 

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Thats sounds like a cool idea.. might just have to do that.. just because :)
 

· yep yep...
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looks clean, i've been wanting to do that since i blew my HG's probly some nasty stuff in the block.
 

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Where is it plumb'ed to? the heater hoses?
 

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subscribed. a clean cooling system for $50, how can you go wrong. how did you hook them up to the heater hoses. did you just splice into one of them and run it to the filter and then back to the other end of that same hose?
 

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Good Job!

very nice!! ive always had them on my big trucks.. they do work and they are beneficial! nice post! i see a project in the near future!!
Coolant systems on large trucks differ from the Dmax. There, to protect from cavitation damage, added Nitrites in the coolant mix provide a protective layer on the engine cylinder liners. As the Nitrites slowly break down, the Coolant filter removes the resulting sediment created.

After so many miles, replenishing Nitrite levels require adding SCAs (supplemental coolant additive). Coolant test strips (cheap and readily available) will tell you the freeze level and ph level, along with the remaining Nitrites level to determine the amount of SCA to add.

The old PS 7.3 that seem to run forever was this type of Diesel and had this type of coolant setup. The Dmax isn’t and Dexcool coolant doesn’t need SCAs or the filter to remove the Nitrite sediment.

The filter add-on kits I’ve seen for the Dmax are well over $100…that’ll buy enough Dexcool for more than 4+ coolant changes (read Clean, Fresh), which never seemed prudent. However, with the excellent parts list info above, $30 or so is cheap insurance. And you can easily pull it off the system at a later date if needed.

Periodically checking the ph level is cheap too.

It’d be interesting to see if the next filter change is cleaner or about the same, and the ph level before and after.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yea, the FPPF filter - and this time I got the baldwin have no additives, not needed with DexCool.

I did change the coolant too. Maybe in 25 K or so, I'll swap the filter again. They're cheap enough
 

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the coolant filters ive dealt with at work are mostly a conditioner dont realy see the point of hassling with them on a d-max. They are also a pita to change at least on the freightliners. seems like theyre always froze on and after u get them off the new one always wants to leak.
 
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