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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, got a wierd one. Dead stock 2012 LML just hitting 93k on the odometer.Threw a Tstat code on me. So I changed out my thermostats last week without any issue. Swapped them out, buttoned it all back up and topped off the fluid. Codes gone and good to go. I drive it for a few days no issues. Yesterday I drive an hour up into the mountains to scout some camping spots and smoke starts coming from the passenger side of the bay. Smelling like syrup and pancakes. Mmmm delicious! However, I pop the hood and can't see any excessive fluid anywhere in the bay. Finally I look back at the firewall behind the turbo and see some dripping from a hose coming from there. Trucks fine no codes no overheating, other than the "ENGINE COOLANT LEVEL LOW," so I finish 4wheeling around the mountain and make my way home an hour and half later. After it cools off I end up putting 2/3 of DEX antifreeze in the reservoir to bring the level back.

Today I remove the resonator and intake pipe, and I can't see any excess fluid again. Fire it up and the drip starts. Turns out, it's coming from the coolant line coming from the firewall into the EGR! This happen to anybody else? Can this even be fixed? I have a Werhli High Flow Bundle and EGR delete kit in the garage ready to go. Just need to get the tuner and exhaust lined up. Can this be fixed on the cheap unitil I am ready to delete, or do I bite the bullet and rock and roll and open it up and let it breath? Attached a couple pics for reference. Advice and suggestions?
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easy fix ten dollar fix at napa parts store.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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I think it's the plastic quick coupler.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Oh, didn't even think about the quick connect fitting @d9er. Duh on my part!! Thanks for the tip on the Doorman fitting @Reno Classic. Called my local O'reilly's and they have it in stock. I will let you know how it works out.
 

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Quick tip buy a black and white one replace them both it's easier.
 
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Even the SS will fail when the O Ring gets old and brittle. Better to use a good heater hose and worm clamps, one and done!
 

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It’s the heater hose connection in the first photo. They kind of suck to take off so buy the good version of tools to take off the QD if you haven’t already. I used the Performance Tool plastic ones and it worked, but it probably could have been easier.
 

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It’s the heater hose connection in the first photo. They kind of suck to take off so buy the good version of tools to take off the QD if you haven’t already. I used the Performance Tool plastic ones and it worked, but it probably could have been easier.
you don't need tools. just for hose clamp.
 

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Wow i have change plenty of them and i've never had to use a tool on a disconnect. Excuse me my forefinger and my thumb that's all I've ever used.
 
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You gently push quick connect towards the heater core and press the two white tabs and then pull it off. Sometimes you have to twist a little as you do it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hey all, thanks for all the great advice. I got everything buttoned up and fixed up. New fitting and hose and clamps! But no more leaking and temps are where they need to be. No idea how you could possibly take that fitting off without the tool. But either way, done! Now I need to find a tuner for my truck. Time to install the Werhli High Flow Bundle kit!!
 
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