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Just got a 2011 3500HD LML with deleted exhaust. 150k

My coolant is a pink / red... anyone know what this is? Picture attached.

Also, I get a low coolant message frequently on my dash message area. Every time I check the coolant, it's above the MIN line. In the picture, that was after the truck was idling for a few min. When it's cold, it's right at the MIN line.

I guess to get rid of the message I should first try to add some coolant? Just didn't know what... stick with the same kind? What is it? I've heard of green, yellow, blue, etc.

Thanks. new to diesels, in case you couldn't tell.
 

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that looks to be the correct color for DexCool, which is the correct coolant for your truck. I got that same message after my delete, had to top off couple times to burp air from the system.
 

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If it's at the MIN when cold, it's time to add some DexCool.

Several manufacturers make it.

Get one of the pre-mixed ones. It's just easier.


If you don't know if the coolant has been changed, it's time to do so.
 

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If it's at the MIN when cold, it's time to add some DexCool.

Several manufacturers make it.

Get one of the pre-mixed ones. It's just easier.


If you don't know if the coolant has been changed, it's time to do so.
I added some more brought it up half way between MIN and MAX. I got the premixed dexcool. Hopefully that fixes it. I'm looking in to a coolant flush. How easy to DIY on that?
 

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If you get full strength dex cool use distilled water, not tap water.
You will save $$ if you buy full strength vs pre-mix.
 

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If you get full strength dex cool use distilled water, not tap water.
You will save $$ if you buy full strength vs pre-mix.
He already bought the premixed, & by the time you buy full strength & distilled water it's a coin toss what is cheaper. And like previously mentioned, "it's just easier"
 

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He already bought the premixed, & by the time you buy full strength & distilled water it's a coin toss what is cheaper. And like previously mentioned, "it's just easier"
Around here Prestone Pre-Mix and full strength Dex-Cool are both around $19. Making two pre mix $38

Distilled water is $.86...making those two gallons cost about $20.

I can buy LOTS of beer or rum for those $18. >:)
 

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Color is correct as mentioned above. Dexcool. But, mine stays topped off completely. If the cooling system was worked on it will take a few heat cycles with refills between to get it back up. I looked at multiple trucks to make sure I wasn’t loosing my mind after I first flushed the system and was chasing a slight coolant leak.
 

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I added some more brought it up half way between MIN and MAX. I got the premixed dexcool. Hopefully that fixes it. I'm looking in to a coolant flush. How easy to DIY on that?
its rather simple actually, theres a metal C clip you pull out on the pass side lower radiator hose, then just shimmy the hose back SLOWLY over a large catch pan and it will drain almost everything, i got just shy of 4 gallons out of my system so make sure you have at least that much capacity in your pan. Then close, fill with water, run the engine a bit, drain again, close, fill with 5050 either premix or, preferable because its cheaper, straight coolant and distilled water. you will need to add coolant a couple times more than likely as air burps out.

as for the distilled vs tap water, distilled is always going to be better, however if you live somewhere where the water quality is very good, with a neutral pH and low dissolved solids, than its kind of up to you. you reach diminishing returns on your investment at some point. Also, if you have a RO system in your house then that water is totally fine to use in place of distilled water.
 

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From 2014 LML manual:Capacity - Cooling System (Pickup Models) 27.0 L 28.5 US qt (7.1 gal)
 

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Is there a block drain, or some plug that can be pulled out to drain the block? Also, I have several jugs of the all makes all models light green stuff in the garage. Any reason I shouldn't use this?
 

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Is there a block drain, or some plug that can be pulled out to drain the block? Also, I have several jugs of the all makes all models light green stuff in the garage. Any reason I shouldn't use this?
no to the drain plug, you need to pull the hose off, unless its a old LB7, but that would be the wrong forum section for that truck.

yes, mixing the green with the remaining dexcool in the block can cause precipitates to fall out of solution that will turn everything kinds gross inside. If you want to switch to green, you can, there is no point because the dexcool is about the same price and lasts 3-4 times longer, but you can do it, you just need to get rid of every bit of dexcool with several full fill and drains with water where you run the engine in between to circulate the heater core and open the thermostats. again, it is best to just run the dexcool, as the same tedious flushing will be required to go back.
 

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Lots of coolant manufacturers make dexcool.

If a place sells coolant, dexcool is probably one of the types they stock.
 

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Lots of coolant manufacturers make dexcool.

If a place sells coolant, dexcool is probably one of the types they stock.
you can also get the ACDelco gallons of 100% on amazon for a good price with free shipping, same goes for rotella and other fluids and filters. At least here, its often significantly cheaper than the local parts store.

another good idea is to pickup a specific gravity tester for coolant, there like 2 bucks, that way you make sure you have the correct freezing point for your climate. If your just draining and filling, no big deal, but if you flush with 100% water, its good to know the dilution ratio since you wont get all the water out of the block by draining it.
 

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you can also get the ACDelco gallons of 100% on amazon for a good price with free shipping, same goes for rotella and other fluids and filters. At least here, its often significantly cheaper than the local parts store.

another good idea is to pickup a specific gravity tester for coolant, there like 2 bucks, that way you make sure you have the correct freezing point for your climate. If your just draining and filling, no big deal, but if you flush with 100% water, its good to know the dilution ratio since you wont get all the water out of the block by draining it.
Says the man who probably runs it 3-1 coolant-water like I did when I lived in The Great Land.
 

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Says the man who probably runs it 3-1 coolant-water like I did when I lived in The Great Land.
60-40 but whos counting :grin2:

i basically just flush the block with tap water from the garden hose (gotta love that good clean alaskan tap water), run the engine to temp, drain it and then fill it back up with concentrate, gives you roughly a 60-40 mix since a little over 3 gallons of water stays in the system. if i lived in a very cold part of alaska id probably bump it up to 70-30 and be more diligent with my SGravity tester, but at 60-40 or there abouts im no where near freezing temps where im at. Its more peace of mind in case we get a really cold week or something.
 

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60-40 but whos counting :grin2:

i basically just flush the block with tap water from the garden hose (gotta love that good clean alaskan tap water), run the engine to temp, drain it and then fill it back up with concentrate, gives you roughly a 60-40 mix since a little over 3 gallons of water stays in the system. if i lived in a very cold part of alaska id probably bump it up to 70-30 and be more diligent with my SGravity tester, but at 60-40 or there abouts im no where near freezing temps where im at. Its more peace of mind in case we get a really cold week or something.
Yeah, I lived in Fairbanks before moving to Dillingham.

We also swapped out the thermostats which were mostly 197 degree for 212s (gassers). More heat out of the heater was the goal. Seems like that small temp wouldn't make much difference but it surely did.
 

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Yeah, I lived in Fairbanks before moving to Dillingham.

We also swapped out the thermostats which were mostly 197 degree for 212s (gassers). More heat out of the heater was the goal. Seems like that small temp wouldn't make much difference but it surely did.
oh yea, i dont run a cold air dam on the front of the truck and i can tell on the cold days that its struggling to keep up to temp. You can sometimes feel the heat die down a little bit if the truck is idling for a bit. I figure at 60% im safe down to about -60F and i still keep enough water where i get good heat transfer in the summer time. Faribanks is just a cruel place.... -50 in the winter, 100 in the summer and no AC in sight.

For anyone that cares you can extrapolate the freezing temp for dexcool at values not on the bottle by plugging in the antifreze % in the following formula for X. I got bored, excel was open, what can i say. All units are in 'Murican

TF = -0.02X^2-0.4X+36

For our friends up north, TC = -0.0117X^2-0.15X+0.6667

you know.... or just use the 2$ specific gravity tester >:)
 
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