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I have a 2006 LBZ, 277,000 miles. I am considering selling it before something really expensive breaks, or keeping it.

How much does the following cost, if I brought it to a good Indy shop, not doing the work myself, and not going to a dealer

Turbo - when do they usually fail, and what is the cost ?

Injectors, I am still on the original set, how much for a LBZ ?

Transmission, I don't want a "built" one, just back to stock, how much would that be ?


anything else I should be saving up for ?
 

LHN...We ARE the Joneses
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Are you having problems/issues with any of the above?
Or are you just wary of the mileage, based on past experiences with other vehicles?

While it's possible that those could be future failures, there are countless numbers of HDs on the road still with 500k-1M+ miles, still running on the OE parts. And, the way history is playing out, your 3rd gen LBZ may go down in GM history as the best that was ever built.

But in your situation, I would feel comfortable with a $3-$5k nest egg set aside explicitly for a major event, that may or may not come to fruition.

No input on labor hours, but here's some part$ $ numbers for a few;
Stock Garrett drop-in Turbo, $1300. If it did fail, I would also consider updating the up/down pipes since you're in there.
A set of Pro-Fab (the best) up/down pipes, $500.

Injectors do wear, but nowhere near the failure rate of the 1st gen motors.
And on an LBZ, you usually just replace the single one with problems.
Those are $350-$375 ea, depending on reman or new.
$2700-$2900 for a set of 8, depending on reman or new.

Trans; on stock tuning and proper maintenance, meh.
You might run into a scorched TC, an upgrade to the stronger LML, $500-ish.
A genuine Allison ReTrans 1000, $3k-ish. ($900) TC included.
 

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All 3 of those items can last a good long while. Hell there is a LB7 on one of the forums with over 1.1 million miles and never had the transmission worked on. It's not uncommon to see LBZ injectors last over 400k miles. Seems like the turbos are more hit or miss, depends on when your vanes decide to seize, granted you don't necessarily need a new turbo when that happens, you can pull it and clean it. Really it seems to me that the repair costs you might run into depend more on what you are doing to the truck, running big tunes is obviously going to kill stuff faster.
 
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