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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all. Long time lurker and rarely post. I've found no better forum for info/intel on GM 2500s in general and I thank you all for this!

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I started experiencing a mild wobble about 10K miles ago. It wasn't bad wobble, and I swore it was a cooked a rotor. Now it's become a moderate wobble (randomly). Bone stock truck w/90K on it now. I also currently have about 1.0-1.5" of play in my wheel. Truck tracks fairly straight and pushes to the right a little while the steering wheels is off center a little (it was never perfectly centered form new). I towed 10K miles with it (24ft enclosed/13K lbs), and no longer tow.

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I ordered some UCA/Tierod/shocks/endlinks in an attempt to fix this problem.

So my questions are:

Am I on the right track to fix the wobble?

Do I need PISK just for street use w/no towing now?


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I ordered some UCAs/Tie-rods from Kryptonite as they look like they should hold up and have a good reputation.
Bilstein 5100's and Cognito swaybar end links on the way too.

Sidenote: For the new thread about shocks on a 3500, I spoke to Krypt, and Rudy's tech about either 5100 or Fox 2.0. They both said 5100 for best ride on my street queen(2500). They also mentioned that there are clearance issues between the sway bar and and thicker tie rods, so that's why I purchased the end links even though I plan to keep my truck stock height, or may raise a .5" if any.


Anyways.....the stuff looks great!
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Camera lens Bumper Automotive lighting


Font Street light Gas Metal Brick



Thanks for any and all replies.

- Kevin
 

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2006 LBZ, 2009 LML, 2022 L5P. 1993 6.5 parked in the shed.
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Swap tires front to back, see if it changes. Tires can 'look' okay but be bad. Did you check the pitman and idler arms for play? Anytime I've had a truck with a wobble complaint one of those two things fixes it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Swap tires front to back, see if it changes. Tires can 'look' okay but be bad. Did you check the pitman and idler arms for play? Anytime I've had a truck with a wobble complaint one of those two things fixes it.

I do rotate them, every oil change or 8k miles. Swapping tires may fix for a bit......but It isn't the root of the problem. If it goes away, its masking the weak links. This is why I bought the UCA/tierod set...I know there is something starting to get loose in the front.....just not sure what.

This said, when the dealer quoted me 5 bills for inner/outer, for parts alone..... I was like na, I'll go Krypt/Cog...and then I bought UCAs and shocks : )

Its a clean truck, hoping it all comes out as easy

Automotive tire Tire Wheel Vehicle Grey


Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Alloy wheel


Tire Wheel Car Land vehicle Vehicle
 

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I would say your on the right track. Another thing i would change is the pitman arm and idler arm. And if you want to keep steering tighter for the long haul i would do the PISK or use Kryptonite arms.
 

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Hi all. Long time lurker and rarely post. I've found no better forum for info/intel on GM 2500s in general and I thank you all for this!

---------------

I started experiencing a mild wobble about 10K miles ago. It wasn't bad wobble, and I swore it was a cooked a rotor. Now it's become a moderate wobble (randomly). Bone stock truck w/90K on it now. I also currently have about 1.0-1.5" of play in my wheel. Truck tracks fairly straight and pushes to the right a little while the steering wheels is off center a little (it was never perfectly centered form new). I towed 10K miles with it (24ft enclosed/13K lbs), and no longer tow.

---------------

I ordered some UCA/Tierod/shocks/endlinks in an attempt to fix this problem.

So my questions are:

Am I on the right track to fix the wobble?

Do I need PISK just for street use w/no towing now?


---------------


I ordered some UCAs/Tie-rods from Kryptonite as they look like they should hold up and have a good reputation.
Bilstein 5100's and Cognito swaybar end links on the way too.

Sidenote: For the new thread about shocks on a 3500, I spoke to Krypt, and Rudy's tech about either 5100 or Fox 2.0. They both said 5100 for best ride on my street queen(2500). They also mentioned that there are clearance issues between the sway bar and and thicker tie rods, so that's why I purchased the end links even though I plan to keep my truck stock height, or may raise a .5" if any.


Anyways.....the stuff looks great!
View attachment 1104836

View attachment 1104837


Thanks for any and all replies.

- Kevin
Have you verified that the steering box is okay? I know this was an issue on the 17-19 trucks, which have a different engine but I believe the suspension and steering are similar or identical to yours.
 

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Describe the wobble better. Sounds intermittent. I assume it’s not only there with brake applications but does applying the brakes make it better? I assume by wobble you mean the steering wheel is wobbling left to right?

Always a good plan to replace any loose front end parts. Personally, I think the heavy duty aftermarket stuff is overkill for a street/towing truck with standard or one size bigger tires on it. I just replaced my tie rods, idler/pitman arm with Moog pieces and I’m just running 265’s and only tow 4500 or 7000 lbs with it, in state. The only off road my truck sees is seasonal roads/two tracks when I help my snowmobile club to trail maintenance.
 
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My 19 does it too after I rotated the tires & changed fronts shocks. It would quit after going around a corner & start after another corner.
Tires were a bit out of round & I think when the out of round spots were opposite it would wobble.
Had them balanced & it helped just a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Describe the wobble better. Sounds intermittent. I assume it’s not only there with brake applications but does applying the brakes make it better? I assume by wobble you mean the steering wheel is wobbling left to right?

Always a good plan to replace any loose front end parts. Personally, I think the heavy duty aftermarket stuff is overkill for a street/towing truck with standard or one size bigger tires on it. I just replaced my tie rods, idler/pitman arm with Moog pieces and I’m just running 265’s and only tow 4500 or 7000 lbs with it, in state. The only off road my truck sees is seasonal roads/two tracks when I help my snowmobile club to trail maintenance.
Yes, the steering wheel wobbles about an 1" side to side...Not to the point where it felt like its going to fall apart, but if it much worse I would have stop the truck do a couple lock to lock turns and it would help it go away.

So I've been driving the truck a little the past few days. With normal fuel saving style, I coast a bit a use light braking with zero wobble issues. Today I was able to induce the wobble with hard braking.

I haven't jacked the truck up yet to inspect anything but will try to get to that today and report whatever I find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Have you verified that the steering box is okay? I know this was an issue on the 17-19 trucks, which have a different engine but I believe the suspension and steering are similar or identical to yours.
I have not verified the steering box is ok.....How would I do this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Update:

So I started probing into the issue. The tie-rods and Ball joints seem tight. There is something else loose. Now down to Pitman/Idler/Steering box to solve (hoping its not steering box). As others have mentioned, an alignment will help, but I'm not sold on that solution yet.

Here a quick vid of what I'm finding (wheel is locked without key):


I'm doing this solo, I don't have a second hand of eyes/arms to help ID the exact fail....I'll dig some more tomorrow.
 

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To check pitman and idler use floor jack under the lower control arm raising one side at a time then grab hold of wheel front and back pushing front pulling rear and vise versa and see if the pitman joint takes a rolling motion.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
To check pitman and idler use floor jack under the lower control arm raising one side at a time then grab hold of wheel front and back pushing front pulling rear and vise versa and see if the pitman joint takes a rolling motion.
To jack one tire to "lock down" movement from one side makes sense....I didn't think of this. Thank you.

Like I mentioned, I'm solo on this project. But I'm willing to give it my best before bringing it to the stealership. I'm 99% sure my UCA ball joint/tie-rods are good. I'm still going to change the UCA/tie-rods anyways.

Quick question:
Is there a lash adjustment on a 2015LML steering box?
 

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Rolling motion of a ball joint style pitman or idler arm is not abnormal wear. When the joint moves in and out, or side to side in the socket, you’ve got issues.

Steering gear box adjustments can be very tricky if you are not 100% familiar with the process. If you just adjust the over center adjustment too tight, you’ll cause a pretty serious/hazardous condition. The gear can be checked in the truck for excessive play by having someone turn the steering wheel side to side, engine off, wheels on the ground, column unlocked, and watching the input and output shafts of the steering gear. This is also an excellent way to check all of the remaining steering parts for excessive play.
 
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Rolling motion of a ball joint style pitman or idler arm is not abnormal wear. When the joint moves in and out, or side to side in the socket, you’ve got issues.
I dont agree because a new arm stays solid and that’s also the point of the PISK and the HD arms from like Kryptonite. I can pretty much tell driving a truck if the arm joints are bad because of the affect bumps have on the steering.
 

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I dont agree because a new arm stays solid and that’s also the point of the PISK and the HD arms from like Kryptonite. I can pretty much tell driving a truck if the arm joints are bad because of the affect bumps have on the steering.
The joints are made to twist some. Once the fixed bushing pitman arm showed up in 2011, most of that twist was then gone. A lot of trucks with PISKs on them then put a bunch of stress on the gear box and frame. To each their own. I only run 265’s on my truck so the factory designed steering parts are fine imo.
 

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New 'stock' arm will allow centerlink to rotate a fair bit. Most updated arms (Moog etc) don't use a plain ball anymore and severely limit rotation. I started using the Moog pitman arms, even cleans up the death wobble in the vans that have the cow horn shaped center link. Still allows a little flex vs the solid ones that you risk snapping the stud.
 

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I’d jump to the steering box. I struggled with a 2015 death wobble. Wasn’t tires, rotors, Pittman arms, etc. Finally solved it by replacing steering box. It was intermittent like you described but mostly when braking going downhill.
 

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have you checked the front bearing housings. My 05' needed new ones at about 75K. I replaced all front suspension and steering parts at one time and all wobbled and strange sound went away and now it rides and steers like new again. I was surprised as to hwo much wear there was in the bearing housing assembly i has on each side.
 

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Have a '15 LML also with just over 90k and had the same issues, bad front end wobble above 50 mph. Did everything you are, UCA, tie rods, and lower ball joints, Fox 2.0 shocks, new tires(rotated rears to the front) and alignment, truck is handling great, no more wobble, very responsive. Those factory tie rods are like toothpicks for these big HD trucks. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Have a '15 LML also with just over 90k and had the same issues, bad front end wobble above 50 mph. Did everything you are, UCA, tie rods, and lower ball joints, Fox 2.0 shocks, new tires(rotated rears to the front) and alignment, truck is handling great, no more wobble, very responsive. Those factory tie rods are like toothpicks for these big HD trucks. Good luck.
Thx--

I was waiting on an item and haven't installed yet....but it's on my to do list. I'm going to bring the truck to a shop and have them inspect steering box, pitman, idler arm.....since they may be installing the stuff(or some of it). I know I can do the UCAs and tierods....but the pitman arm I'm reading is a bear to replace. The idler I can probably do....steering box(which I hope isn't bad), looks to be a bear to change also.

I was thinking of adding a steering stabilizer while I'm at it....I think the provision is there for it....not sure if hardware is there though. Any recommendation on where to get hardware if that's the case, or what kits are available? I'll still be on stock tires, and not sure if it will help longevity?
 
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