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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Saw this a while ago when i owned my 7.3 but never got around to doing it. I do enough towing with my 02 dually to sufice this project(if that makes sense)

So what i did was look around and found sinister makes a kit but its 150.00 and inlcudes everything excepti would have to make a bracket to mount the filter head and filter itslef. Right down to my local napa i went and within a few hours after the guy ordered the their "version" i had my coolant filter kit

It cost me about 85 dollars this inlcuded the filter head three nuts bolt washers and lock washers and two 90 degree threaded fittings, the filter itself, which was precharged with the DCA(about two ounces i think) two plastic 5/8 tee's ten clamps and 6 feet of 5/8 heater hose

I made my own bracket and bolted it next too the a/c compressor (were one would mount a dual alternator or CP3) All in all, it took me about an hour of time to do, not a bad setup and looks neat and tidy

This setup is know as most coolant filter systems are know as a by-pass system, this system is directed/connected through/to my heater core lines. As coolant circulates, only a portion of the coolant is filtered, then returned to the rest of the system, this makes perfect sense if the filter were to clog no major problems would occur (if it was an in-line setup connected to a radiator hose, and clogged, it could rupture a hose or the filter itself causing mass coolant loss) Just change the filter and keep moving.
 

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Nice set up, but why exactly is this needed on a duramax? What is it supposed to be filtering out? The way I see it, if your coolant is contaminated, you have bigger problems than worrying about dirty coolant.


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Nice set up, but why exactly is this needed on a duramax? What is it supposed to be filtering out? The way I see it, if your coolant is contaminated, you have bigger problems than worrying about dirty coolant.


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After a while all kinds of crap can build up in your cooling system


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it stinks and whistles :)
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Discussion Starter #7
Exactly what Brennan said, the duramax block is
Cast in a sand mold( can't say for sure on the newer
Trucks though) The blocks are never really cleaned
Thoroughly and sand gets stuck in the crevices or works its
Way out of the casting itself overtime

Scale can build up and break off, dirt if for whatever reason
All this can lead to PRE-mature water pump failure
The filter, obviously filters all this out keeping the
System cleaner and prolongs coolant flushes
 

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Is this setup even accomplishing anything? You have it tee'd into both the inlet and outlet of the heater core seems to me the filter is seeing very little flow, if any at all.
 

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Saw this a while ago when i owned my 7.3 but never got around to doing it.........the filter itself, which was precharged with the DCA(about two ounces i think)
Are you not confusing two different Diesel engine tech/designs/mfrg and installing a remedy to a problem that doesn't exist in a Dmax engine?

Have you verified the compatibility of the filter's preloaded Coolant Additives with an extended life coolant such as Dexcool? It's usually not.
 

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if its tied to the heater core then this wont work to well in the summer, just fyi...
 

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if its tied to the heater core then this wont work to well in the summer, just fyi...
You do know coolant is always flowing through those hoses right...just the blend doors are closed over the heater core so you have a/c in the summer
 

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This is not installed correctly. The filter is not going to see any flow with the way it is tee'd in like that. in fact it is even possible to back feed the filter and push all the contaminants back into the system. It needs to be inline with only 1 of the heater core hoses. Not tee'd into both like that.

Unless I'm missing something here..that is the only way I see that it will be effective.
 

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Great write up, but I would rather flush coolant for $30 than spend $100 for this and $5 for a filter every time that is clean...
Too me it seems useless...


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This is not installed correctly. The filter is not going to see any flow with the way it is tee'd in like that. in fact it is even possible to back feed the filter and push all the contaminants back into the system. It needs to be inline with only 1 of the heater core hoses. Not tee'd into both like that.

Unless I'm missing something here..that is the only way I see that it will be effective.
It's going to over power the flow/pressure of the water pump and back feed?
Plenty of other write UPS saying 2 tees or 2nd tee into overflow tank will work.

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Coolants going to take the path of least resistance so you may get some flow through the filter but the path through the filter will also be slower and any big particles would likely follow the faster moving stream and bypass the filter. Hey its your $ do whatever you want with it but I would have put the $ and effort into installing a bypass oil filter system on the truck instead.
 

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Coolants going to take the path of least resistance so you may get some flow through the filter but the path through the filter will also be slower and any big particles would likely follow the faster moving stream and bypass the filter. Hey its your $ do whatever you want with it but I would have put the $ and effort into installing a bypass oil filter system on the truck instead.
There ya go.
 

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What would be the best way to check flow after the filter?

If I just remove the out line, of course it'll be pumping out because the system is under some psi and you've just opened an escape, right?

Put a clear tube on it? Idk.

Due for a coolant change at 400,000 and will check output after the filter to answer the question.
 
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