If your hurting for $, you could buy this part and adapt it to your own spray rig....

LIQUI MOLY DPF Wand w/5 Interchangeable Tips | eBay

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This is the tip you need. The wand will be parallel with the drive shaft with this tip going down the rabbit hole. You work the wand around to spray all the nooks and crannies...

 

I like their products. I went a different route. I cut open my DPF on the '11 when it was clogged and needed replacing at 175K according to the dealer. Two part mix, don't recall if it was the same product but it came in regular cans not for use with sprayer. Spray the first part, let it sit, spray the second part, let it sit. Then I used a pressure washer to clean it out. Could not believe the crap that came out. Welded it back up and it seems to be working like new.

Cheaper alternative if you have a welder but I also have no doubt the spray in product you used would work well.

 

I forgot to add that you are supposed to initiate a regen, after using this stuff. I dont have the ability to do that, so I just waited for it to want to regen on it's own, and then used this gunk so when I was done, the regen was already underway.

 

Bob. How the hell are you doing? Have not seen much of your words of wisdom.

 

Meh....... got tired of arguing with keyboard warriors, but figured this lil' gizmo could help someone out,....

 

Well this is some good info! As the years go by, it more and more obvious that diesels owners will have no choice but to put up with the ridiculous emission systems on our trucks. Having the ability to clean the DPF yourself it more assuring.

 

The upstream pressure port is the fitting to remove. I shot it with some penetrant.... came right out

 

shoot.... been shooting penetrating fluid on it for two days.... won't budge yet. And somehow a couple of the corners are rounding out!!! uhhhgggg

 

I do miss your words of wisdom Aliso!

 

Thanks for this Bob. Seems like a nice option before shelling out a ton of money to replace the DPF.

 

I went to San Diego and back this morning...185 mile round trip. Soot meter is on 19 grams. All seems to be back to normal

 

From what you're seeing/reading/feeling - is this a process that is purely proactive maintenance or is this something that can be done by owners with a clog or service message?

Another great find!!

 

Both.... it cleaned out my DPF, and I intend to also use it proactively, like every 50k miles or as needed.
For the Cleaner and the Purge..... it's about $50

 

FYI, here's the link to the full kit

Amazon.com: Liqui Moly Pro-Line Diesel Particulate Filter Cleaning Kit : Automotive

Buy Liqui Moly Pro-Line Diesel Particulate Filter Cleaning Kit: Cleaning Kits - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

If anyone is planning on doing this, I'll do a better write up....

 

The guy on Amazon is the same guy on

ebay.... but the ebay deal is sweeter.

 

Thank you for the info.

2 questions:

1) Looks like the vid shows doing a car. Do we need more of the chemicals due to a larger DPF?
2) Do you know what happens if you don't do a regen right away?

 

Thanks for this, Bob. My 2017 is at 138k miles and I'm wondering when I'm going to have to look at DPF maintenance. Then I see this post and I'm now less worried. Appreciate you sharing.

 

Do you get codes or does it go into limp mode? If not it is perhaps the gauge and/or sensor that is the issue and you are chasing a non issue. FWIW I would be very very careful about aftermarket magic treatments, likely they will do nothing, more likely cause more issues. If the OEM regen is working, all you need to do is drive it far enough to get it hot enough to operate.

 

I get what you're saying, but I disagree with the notion that it will just keep working as intended. We can watch the DPF degrade over time with more frequent regens and/or longer regen cycles.

 

In my experience there is little notice before the DPF becomes clogged. On the LML I cut open and cleaned it was working fine regenerating as it should and then one day it just wouldn't regen and threw a few codes. I could not do a manual or mobile regen as it would stop as soon as it started. That's when the dealer told me it needed replacement.

Mine became clogged at about 175K. I'm strongly considering running AlisonBob's solution through my L5P at around 130K just to try and avoid having to cut mine open again.

 

Bob, Being a big believer in preventative maintenance time for me to try this at about 100,000 miles. The Donaldson filter has been great and I did that right after your initial post. Following up to an earlier question are there implications if the regen is not done right after? Also other than a slight increase in RPM how do I know the car is in regen? 2015 3500 GMC Denali. I ignored the fuel pump warning on the LML and got to spend 12 hours on the side of 85 in downtown Atlanta and pay for a $1600 tow of truck and trailer home

 

Also other than a slight increase in RPM how do I know the car is in regen?

ANYONE who owns a LML should invest in a Insight monitor.

The green is soot grams. it should build slowly and at about 43, a regen will start.
The red is desired fuel pressure vs actual fuel pressure. If these are not the same, you have fuel system issues.
The teal is EGT at the DPF. Durning a regen, it will read about 1200 degrees.
The yellow is DPF backpressure. Lower is better

 

Great info Bob!!! Like others have stated nice to hear from ya. I took a long break as well couldn’t remember my password now back with new name. Thanks again for the post.

 

Just curious how many miles between regen when it was starting to act funny?

 

In my opinion, once you get to more than one regen per tank of fuel on a consistent basis you need to take action of some kind.

 

Unless you are doing some heavy hauling.. in which case it might be justified.

 

Great post! My truck is at 49,000 I will keep an eye on this and will do this in the future! Thank you.