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Im Superrrrr!
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok here we go...

First time I've done a DIY with pics...hope you like it.

Lets start by explaining what we want to accomplish....duh lets change a damn block heater out.

A couple things I did prior to starting this task is make sure the replacement block heater works.

**Caution This thing gets hot and in a quick hurry....1500 watts isn't something you want to be holding when its plugged in...**

Ok you are ready

First thing you will need is a replacement block heater



and a run of your mill duramax



Start off by breaking the lugnuts free while the truck is on the ground....unless of course you have air tools....which I don't...yet




Now lift up the truck and place some jackstands under it like so...



Once you have done that go ahead and remove the tire which will give you better access to the inner fender.



Go ahead and remove the inner fender which will give you access to everything you will be working with now.



Once everything is in sight go ahead and locate the engine block heater....and the cord. As you can tell the block heater is blocked by the damn engine mount....that will have to go or be moved in order to get the old out and the new one in..

Go ahead and unplug the cord and trace it back up to the top...mine was routed through the same hose protectors as the passenger side battery cables....be careful not to cut into the battery cables if you use a knife to cut the electrical tape holding in on.



this is the location of the top side.

 

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Im Superrrrr!
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14,517 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Go ahead and drop the skid plate....you can do this now....later or in the beginning...I forgot to do it to start with so whatever....but you will have to do it in order to jack up the motor later to left the engine off the mount.

It is held on by 4 bolts....or yours is like mine...the dealer lost a bolt and you have only 3 lol



Once you do its time to tackle the pain in the ass engine mount in the way....Go ahead and spray the 3 bolts holding the mount onto the frame with some PB Blaster/WD40.....Get a beer and let it soak in a bit.

Once you drink your beer....go ahead and remove the 3 bolts, they are decently long and may take a bit bigger ratchet to get the job done.. This is honestly the hardest part of the job.



Alldata says to unbolt the tranny line retainer...but for the life of me....didn't see a reason to...its not in the way at all.

Ok go ahead and find a suitable location under the truck to place your jack and go ahead and jack up the engine an inch or 2....

Now with this be careful not to place it any wires....hoses....or just anything in general that is going to break under the pressure....as the other engine mounts are still attached.

You don't need to lift it 10 inches or anything just enough to break the mount free of the frame.

Now in this picture I had already taken the bolts out, but there is 2 on each side of the mount going into the engine. The bolts are in very tight and they aren't long at all.



Now the backside.....this is somewhat of a pain in the ass...there is no easy way to get to them. I had to use a 3", a 6" and a 9" extension with with a swivel socket adapter to get them out....cause that all the extensions I had... Thank god they aren't in very tight.



ok hard part is over.... Go ahead and move the engine mount away from the block heater, here you can see you have clear access to the heater.



At this point go ahead and move everthing away from the truck cause you are getting ready to unload alot of coolant....Place a bucket, pan, just something to catch the fluid.

Granted this might be solved by draining the system before you started....but what fun would be.

But the only reason I wasn't worried about it is, I am taking my truck to have its coolant flushed and changed tomorrow. Or at least thats what I tell myself.

Anywho...

Go ahead and start loosening the bolt holding the block heater in place.....DO NOT COMPLETELY TAKE OUT THE BOLT..It has a bar that goes on the back that presses against the inside of the block....if you take the bolt out...that piece will fall down in the Coolant tracks.....never to be seen again....until it goes into your water pump and you are replacing that.

Now once you start loosening it, you should start seeing fluid come out....and alot of it. Go ahead and grab a pair of plyers and try turning the heater back and forth to break the seal on the O-ring....

Now get a beer....let it drain.

Once drained go ahead and wiggle the heater back and forth until it comes out...Should look like this now.



Now with it out go ahead and place the new one in the there....Now what I did at this point was adjust the screw just far enough to clear the opening...as it is somewhat of a pain in the ass to get an allen wrench in there to tighten...

Go ahead and tighten it up nice and good...Should look like this.



Go ahead and start re-assembly

Now with the mount....Go ahead and place the bolts back in the front 2 holes and save the top bolt on the rear side for last....as you can't see the bolt hole....its a feel install.

Now if you take the motor mount completely out...I would advise cutting the shield on the backside to remove that small fold in it..

Here is the angle I had to use to reinstall.



Ok everything else is simple to reinstall.

DO NOT FORGET TO PUT MORE COOLANT TO REPLACE WHAT YOU JUST TOOK OUT.

I replaced just under 3 gal., doing it my way.

Now enjoy a tasty adult beverage and start writing a DIY!!



Here is what I was left with, as you can tell something arc'd and it either burned the last pin off or it just broke. But it is stuck the old cord.




Hope this helps anyone and everyone out...feel free to post copy or whatever you wish with this.
 

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Nice write up!!!
 

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Im Superrrrr!
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks!!! Just hope it helps people out.

Oh I guess it should be of note that it will take you about 1-1/2 hrs.....2 if you are taking pictures as you go lol
 

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Nice write up man...hope I never have to do this!! haha
 

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Im Superrrrr!
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
it honestly isnt as bad as I thought it was gonna be....

Just so you I was quoted to have the dealer do it....it was gonna cost 750 bones. and the block heater replacement is only 45 bucks.
 

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VAGITARIAN :)
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Nice Job!!!!!!!!
 

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Thanks man good job that’s killer you’re saving guys over 700 bones.
 

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Im Superrrrr!
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

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Im Superrrrr!
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just as an update the quantity of fluid needed to refill.

After 3 days of driving my low coolant light came on...had to add about 3/4 gallon.

so total fluid is 3 1/2 to 3 3/4.

Maybe sticky this?
 

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Im Superrrrr!
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
lol think I moved em.....give me a bit and see if I can find em
 

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Im Superrrrr!
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
well bad news sports fans.....I took then off of photobucket.....for some unknown reason.

I'll have to find my camera and hope they are still on there.
 

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Im Superrrrr!
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
yes unfortunately....unless I can manage to find them on an old camera.....highly doubtful though
 

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Sorry for the thread resurrection, but how did o know the block heater was bad? Mine keeps tripping my GFCI so I'm thinking it could need to be replaced. Also, can just the cord be easily removed to see if it is the problem?
 

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Im Superrrrr!
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Sorry for the thread resurrection, but how did o know the block heater was bad? Mine keeps tripping my GFCI so I'm thinking it could need to be replaced. Also, can just the cord be easily removed to see if it is the problem?
That exact reason....it would trip breakers and the GFCI on the outlet.

Yes the cord comes right off, the end of it is just rubber.
 

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Thanks for the write-up! Did mine in about an hour. The engine mount was a PITA, mostly just getting to the rear two bolts. The rest was cake!
 
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