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Discussion Starter #1
I've got a '02 LB7 that is bone stock, except that I converted over to the Caterpillar fuel filter last year at about this time. The only issue I've noted so far is that I'm occasionally getting a DTC that's described as something like "low power enrichment fuel pressure" or something like that... I just went out to the truck to see if the code has returned, but it has not at this time, and I didn't write the number down the last time. Any ideas on this?

Kinda thinking about putting a tuner on it for just a little bit more power for towing, but want to keep it reliable, absolutely nothing crazy. Looking at Banks EconoMind, any input?

Thanks,

bd
 

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With a stock tune you shouldnt need a lift pump. But if you start turning up the HP you probably should get one to keep the lb7 injectors and pump happy. They tend to be sensitive


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I would get a lift pump regardless for the duramax trucks. Takes some of the load off of the CP3 so its not having the job of supplying the motor with fuel along with pullin diesel from the tank, plus the axtra filtration is always a bonus. Also, since you have switched to the CAT filter you have no filter to separate the water like the OEM did. Only reason i would run a CAT is if i had a lift pump that separated the water. Right now you have no prevention for water in the fuel.
 

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I would get a lift pump regardless for the duramax trucks. Takes some of the load off of the CP3 so its not having the job of supplying the motor with fuel along with pullin diesel from the tank, plus the axtra filtration is always a bonus. Also, since you have switched to the CAT filter you have no filter to separate the water like the OEM did. Only reason i would run a CAT is if i had a lift pump that separated the water. Right now you have no prevention for water in the fuel.
I agree and another thing to add is a lift pump will eliminate alot of the air in the fuel which can be hard on the injectors over time.

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys.

Can you steer me in some direction on what pump I would need. Like I said, I'm not trying to make 1100 horsepower or anything like that, just some positive pressure to push fuel through the cat filter so that the low pressure pump on the CP3 isn't working so hard.

Also, any thoughts on the Banks tuners, or any others that you would recommend... this is a towing truck, so needs to stay reliable. As you probably guessed, not too up to speed on the high performance world.
 

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I put a FASS Titanium signature on mine but there are plenty of good cheaper options. I wanted the extra filters though. I also removed the filter under the hood and used a Fass filter delete. I drive a 03. Right off I noticed better idle and better throttle response, nothing on fuel economy though. I would not do the sump kit unless your fuel tank has the gauge issue's some have towards the empty mark. I simply hate the spot where the stock filter was. For plug and play the though The Fass was awesome and easy to put on. The Tuner Im looking at is a Edge, but like you I dont want to blow my truck up or Head gaskets so I would only use the economy and towing tune. I do like the thought of being able to see the injector tables, and changing the ratio for tires. Its a tool bottom line I guess. One thing i am doing really soon is Im going to make a protection plate for the fuel pump do to being so exposed to the rear fender wheel and the ground. Right now the filters are wrapped with a old mudflap to protect them from flying rocks that the rear left tire picks up.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I put a FASS Titanium signature on mine but there are plenty of good cheaper options. I wanted the extra filters though. I also removed the filter under the hood and used a Fass filter delete. I drive a 03. Right off I noticed better idle and better throttle response, nothing on fuel economy though. I would not do the sump kit unless your fuel tank has the gauge issue's some have towards the empty mark. I simply hate the spot where the stock filter was. For plug and play the though The Fass was awesome and easy to put on. The Tuner Im looking at is a Edge, but like you I dont want to blow my truck up or Head gaskets so I would only use the economy and towing tune. I do like the thought of being able to see the injector tables, and changing the ratio for tires. Its a tool bottom line I guess. One thing i am doing really soon is Im going to make a protection plate for the fuel pump do to being so exposed to the rear fender wheel and the ground. Right now the filters are wrapped with a old mudflap to protect them from flying rocks that the rear left tire picks up.
Thanks!

I bought my '02 used back in 2012, and I think the previous owner dumped it because of the injectors... the day after I brought it home I discovered that the crankcase was full of diesel fuel (it wasn't the day before when I bought it...) you probably know the rest of the story from there...

Anyway, the truck already had an aftermarket fuel tank on it when I bought it, it is made of steel, and as best I can tell, it holds about 39-40 gallons. I have no idea what brand it is, I haven't found any markings on it... I guess I should get under there and look a little harder, maybe I can find something. What is the sump kit? So far, no issues with the guage.

Fass... I'll have to do some research on that...
 

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Sump kit changes the fuel draw point....mainly to overcome effects from a fire hydrant returning too much fuel and messing with the stock draw point at lower tank levels.

Many times with installing a LP, the initial improvements felt afterwards are a result of the install (leaking parts removed), and/or the added positive pressure helps with various weak flex lines' bends that suck flat under vacuum and age.

When whatever fuel supply code goes away, the LP is proclaimed the solution...the same success results could've been resolved by finding the leaks/crimps/collapsed bends and replacing.

Which could prove more difficult to find and rule out, than the LP install itself. 'uhNo

Extra filtration;
1-14 thread filter bases are $25-$30 ea (in either top or side mount versions). A single FWS aux filter added pre-LP will greatly extend the life of the stock filter up front, by removing all the big particulates 1st and the added positive pressure will fully utilize the media of the stock filter (vacuum only, leaves unused voids in the media).

Also much easier to access the valve and drain any water collected.



If the additional primary and secondary filters @ the LP are doing their job, you should never have to change the stock filter again....keeping it as a backup for water protection.
Rated @ 50gph under vacuum (more with psi), it's not much of a restriction, as you'll never come close to burning 10gph.




After I swap out the 1st two filters, I check the vacuum pull (pump off) at the stock filter head (via an adapter at the bleed port) for any restriction that might be at that tertiary filter, and leave it be if it's not.

My current Racor filter installed there has had over 8k gallons of fuel ran thru it so far, still tests free and clear.

 

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Do you NEED a Lift Pump...NO

Will it help prevent air in the lines caused by leaking braided fuel lines.....YES

That said, you Do NEED either the LP or to reinstall the factory fuel filter. Right now you have NO water separator to protect your engine from a bad load of diesel. Water in the fuel can destroy your engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Do you NEED a Lift Pump...NO

Will it help prevent air in the lines caused by leaking braided fuel lines.....YES

That said, you Do NEED either the LP or to reinstall the factory fuel filter. Right now you have NO water separator to protect your engine from a bad load of diesel. Water in the fuel can destroy your engine.
Thanks for the info guys! I'll check into all this stuff and get myself up to speed.

As far as water in the fuel, I can tell you that I'm not too concerned about that... I'm 50 years old, and I've been around diesel engines and tractors and trucks and filters with water separators ever since I was old and tall enough to step on a clutch, and I've been around in-ground and above ground fuel storage tanks (diesel and jet fuel and gasoline) and the fuel supply chain from pipeline to service pump for many, many years... and I can tell you from near lifelong experience, that the chances of getting water in your diesel fuel from the filling station are almost nil, especially if you get your diesel fuel from a station that does a good amount of regular business. There are water detection systems in place in the storage tanks that will shut down the filling station pumps long before there is ever enough water in the bottom of those storage tanks to get picked up by the suction lines for the pumps. So, I don't believe there is any need worry yourselves too much about water in fuel... if you ever do happen to get water in your fuel, it is much more likely to be a problem with the individual piece of equipment, and not the fuel supply. I'm not saying that it can't happen, but in my experience, it is EXTREMELY unlikely. Frankly, I'd be much more concerned about bacterial growth in the fuel system, than water.:wink2::wink2:
 

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I put a FASS Titanium signature on mine but there are plenty of good cheaper options. I wanted the extra filters though. I also removed the filter under the hood and used a Fass filter delete. I drive a 03. Right off I noticed better idle and better throttle response, nothing on fuel economy though. I would not do the sump kit unless your fuel tank has the gauge issue's some have towards the empty mark. I simply hate the spot where the stock filter was. For plug and play the though The Fass was awesome and easy to put on. The Tuner Im looking at is a Edge, but like you I dont want to blow my truck up or Head gaskets so I would only use the economy and towing tune. I do like the thought of being able to see the injector tables, and changing the ratio for tires. Its a tool bottom line I guess. One thing i am doing really soon is Im going to make a protection plate for the fuel pump do to being so exposed to the rear fender wheel and the ground. Right now the filters are wrapped with a old mudflap to protect them from flying rocks that the rear left tire picks up.
I also put a FASS Titanium on my 03 Lb7 and when I did I had looked around many different options and what I wanted with the install. After checking other lift pumps and looking to build my own with the dual filters I found that the savings was minimal so I bought the Fass which includes everything I needed in one box. I am happy with the install and I also put the Beans feed and return sump on and couldn't be happier. I watched a lot of different videos on installing these items and stuck to the basics but made changes to my install that I thought made it look more professional and feelings of satisfaction with the job done well.
 

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it is EXTREMELY unlikely.
And yet, it happens and does occur. Even following your list of things to do, it occurs. Rampant and end of the world common, probably not...but it only takes once to potentially ruin your day.

Just parking your vehicle for a long period of time with only a partially full fuel tank, thru daily temp cycles, condensation will form in the tank.

Spending $100 on an adapter, so one can run a filter designed for secondary use (no water protection), with a lesser micron filtration rating than if you'd just run a quality filter designed to fit the stock mount in the 1st place....not necessarily prudent.
 

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I always add some fuel additive with each tank its just cheap insurance, always run a filter or filters as well. Only takes one bad batch of fuel. Tanks will heat and cool as well and cause condensation in the fuel system. I use NAPA gold or wix but filters are whatever you prefer, I like a water drain on the filter though. This is just my view and choice.
 

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Thanks for the info guys! I'll check into all this stuff and get myself up to speed.

As far as water in the fuel, I can tell you that I'm not too concerned about that... I'm 50 years old, and I've been around diesel engines and tractors and trucks and filters with water separators ever since I was old and tall enough to step on a clutch, and I've been around in-ground and above ground fuel storage tanks (diesel and jet fuel and gasoline) and the fuel supply chain from pipeline to service pump for many, many years... and I can tell you from near lifelong experience, that the chances of getting water in your diesel fuel from the filling station are almost nil, especially if you get your diesel fuel from a station that does a good amount of regular business. There are water detection systems in place in the storage tanks that will shut down the filling station pumps long before there is ever enough water in the bottom of those storage tanks to get picked up by the suction lines for the pumps. So, I don't believe there is any need worry yourselves too much about water in fuel... if you ever do happen to get water in your fuel, it is much more likely to be a problem with the individual piece of equipment, and not the fuel supply. I'm not saying that it can't happen, but in my experience, it is EXTREMELY unlikely. Frankly, I'd be much more concerned about bacterial growth in the fuel system, than water.:wink2::wink2:
It only takes ONCE...............it is like playing Russian Roulette with a pistol with 1000 chamber cylinder.........it is extremely unlikely you will lose..............but if you do...........NOT GOOD!
 

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I put an airdog 4g 165 on. Their customer service has been great. Takes the strain off the cp3 gear pump. Added filtration for peace of mind. And if the pump quits for any reason there is a check ball inside that will allow fuel to flow like normal. I believe the Fass is the same way and haven't heard much bad about either brand.
 

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I put an airdog 4g 165 on. Their customer service has been great. Takes the strain off the cp3 gear pump. Added filtration for peace of mind. And if the pump quits for any reason there is a check ball inside that will allow fuel to flow like normal. I believe the Fass is the same way and haven't heard much bad about either brand.
I have never had my FASS quit on me but I did want to know if it was truly a "Flow Thru". To that endI unplugged the Add a Fuse that provides power to the solenoid.

It ran for a week without the LP, about 40 miles a day or so back and forth to work. No issues at all.
 

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Cp3 may be needing replaced. When mine got weak it would set the check engine
light even with a lift pump.
 

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