[ZiGBlazer]

Does anyone know of a good place to drain coolant from the block on my LBZ? I will go ahead with the flush, but would be nice to be able to drain the left over water from the block when I am done. I looked and it has too many misc plugs in the side of the block to choose from.

 

[Hondarider552]

pull radiator hose. no coolant drain on LBZ's.



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[Hook'em_Horns!]

There are block drains on each side, forward. There's a nice diagram showing the location on a DP thread, but I can't pull it up right now.

 

[ZiGBlazer]

I gave up on it. I searched every coolant drain/flush post on here and didn't find one that said which plug was the block drain. I was going to guess, but couldn't get to the one I thought it was anyway. I got it flushed good. Found it is a bth to change the thermostats. Maybe it was just because of my wrist problems, but what I thought would be a 1/2 hour job turned into a 2 hour job, plus the test drive and topping off.

Anyway I hope they are right when they say the cooling system holds 26 qrts because I got 3.5 gal of straight antifreeze back into it with a gal of water. I'll test it to make sure after my trip this weekend when it is thoroughly mixed. That Amsoil coolant is a goofy looking yellow.

 

[Hondarider552]

Your correct, I got about 4 gallons out of mine when I swapped turbos.



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[Tow Master]

I agree with Brian... Id just take the lower rad hose off and flush the block and rad with water.

What are you putting back in? I changed the dexcool in my Impala and put in new stuff that mixs with green and the dexcool. Ill be doin the same to my dmax in another 10k



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[ZiGBlazer]

I did take the lower rad hose off to drain it. I was just hoping I could drain the block to get the whole system drained. I actually didn't have much trouble flushing it. I took a heater hose off and flushed in every direction from there, through the top rad hose, and through the thermostat hole. I only wish I would have drilled a hole in one of the thermostats like I usually do. I found those two vents, do not vent very well, although it did purge the air from the heater core and EGR cooler better.

I used Amsoil anti-freeze. I really like the properties of propylene glycol coolant, and it is very hard to find around me. Not to mention $15-$20 a gallon if you do. So when I was looking at the Amsoil stuff it sounded good to me and is propylene glycol. It is more expensive, but hopefully their additives do help it last longer.

 

[Tow Master]

Glad you got it done! If you take the lower rad hose off and flush water through the thermostat then you pretty mutch drained the entire block since the lower hose is at the lowest point



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[TrkTech]

Block drains?

There are block drains on each side, forward. There's a nice diagram showing the location on a DP thread, but I can't pull it up right now.

How about that diagram guy, sure would like to see those block drains. Surprised you said "front", as back would be lowest point. As a heavy truck tech, those big diesel's have easy block drains. Love getting "all" that coolant out to prevent that liner pitting.

 

[Superdave450]

Yes would like to know where the block drains are too

 

[Hook'em_Horns!]

I tried to find pics at the time of the earlier post in June, but got sidetracked as they were off on another stored HDD.

I sourced the old links where I had gotten the pics from, but they're from '08 and no longer active to see. The driver's side is aft of the water pump (easy to access during the pump swap ). I thought the pass side was forward of the heater plug, but other reports show it aft of the starter (remove to access omG!).
Here's another pic.

As you can see ^^, it's just not worth the labor involved. Open the tank cap and the T-stat burp/bleed port up top on the T-stat housing and Drop the lower rad hose instead. You could also pull the heater hoses and add in some compressed air to empty the small amount in the heater core/lines, but I don't.

 

[Superdave450]

Unfortunately for me the thermostat is a lot harder to get at in the vans ��

 

[BlueGraniteLBZ]

Just replaced the coolant in mine and maybe had a good idea thought I would share. Parked truck facing down the driveway, sucked out the coolant resevoir, took the top radiator hose off, used the mighty-vac and sucked out 4 gallons of coolant from there. Then when you pop the lower radiator hose off you don't have a 4+ gallon waterfall in your face and/or all over the place. My coolant was beautiful and I know there may be better ways but its just my $.02 and may help somebody. Next time though I'm installing the t-fittings in the lower radiator hose like RMS has, thats the easiest way. The mighty-vac comes in handy ALL the time. Cheers

 

[hopkins_fam]

On the note of coolant flush and fills. What a good cleaner to use. My uncle who's worked for Kenworth all his life says they use a heavy duty dishwasher detergent that way it doesn't sud up.

I need a real good flush and fill since I havent flushed since my heasd gaskets went and I put tr he new motor in

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[J83]

How about that diagram guy, sure would like to see those block drains. Surprised you said "front", as back would be lowest point. As a heavy truck tech, those big diesel's have easy block drains. Love getting "all" that coolant out to prevent that liner pitting.

yea, im sure he just has them sitting on the desktop waiting for this post 4 years later.... :rofl


let me help you with that...

Let me google that for you

On the note of coolant flush and fills. What a good cleaner to use. My uncle who's worked for Kenworth all his life says they use a heavy duty dishwasher detergent that way it doesn't sud up.

I need a real good flush and fill since I havent flushed since my heasd gaskets went and I put tr he new motor in

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i dump a couple bottles of the prestone cleaner stuff in there and run the engine up to temp, then drain and flush a few times.

 

[bulch1]

I installed a drain plug in my lower rad hose that works very good. 2 inch hose connector. Drilled a tapped for a 1/4 inch NPT Drain Plug.

 

[C20ELEPHANT]

Next go round...
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[407driver]

I tried to find pics at the time of the earlier post in June, but got sidetracked as they were off on another stored HDD.

I sourced the old links where I had gotten the pics from, but they're from '08 and no longer active to see. The driver's side is aft of the water pump (easy to access during the pump swap ). I thought the pass side was forward of the heater plug, but other reports show it aft of the starter (remove to access omG!).
Here's another pic.

As you can see ^^, it's just not worth the labor involved. Open the tank cap and the T-stat burp/bleed port up top on the T-stat housing and Drop the lower rad hose instead. You could also pull the heater hoses and add in some compressed air to empty the small amount in the heater core/lines, but I don't.

An old thread but thanks for the info and advice. I will be doing my EGR delete thermostat and coolant change this break. I was wondering how important the drain plugs were and didn't necessarily want to remove the drain plugs if it isn't necessary.

I figure if I drain, refill with water, run it til warm and then drain again I will be good.

Do you have any idea how much water will be left in the block so I can add enough coolant (dilutable) to get the proper 50/50 mix of water and coolant?

 

[Hook'em_Horns!]

I'd just mix as you go;
3-gals Dex
3-gals distilled water
No empty containers to start with, I Pour out half a gallon of the water into a container/bowl/whatever, refill the empty half with Dex for the 1st premix gallon. (doesn't have to be accurate, see below)

Add the bowl of water removed back to the half empty Dex bottle to mix the 2nd gallon. (accuracy wasn't needed, as you've now poured in a gallon of Dex / along with a gallon of water).

Then use the gauged sides of the empty Dex gallon bottle to premix the other 4 gallons.

Refilling after a water pump/T-stat/rad hoses replacement, I usually see a 1/2-ish gallon of premix left out of 6 total. You'll lose some over time to the mystery leaks, using it sooner or later to top off the tank.

I wouldn't worry much about what ever small percentage it's off, just check the pH periodically, that's the most important thing with the Dex, IMO.
Corrosion protection.

And, there's that freeze thing....but that's not a concern much in the South.

 

[407driver]

Thanks, that is pretty much how I was planning on doing it.

For the PH, strips or a refractometer?

EDIT:

I just found your post on using a multimeter to test the conductivity. I like that better, nothing extra to buy