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Discussion Starter #1
I am about to replace my driveshaft carrier bearing for the second time with only 112,000 miles on my truck and I'm not happy about it. The dealer charges $95 for the part. Has any one else had problems with these? The symptom is a clunk when casually driving away from a stop. It's as if a load shifts. The rubber around the bearing gets soft, allowing the driveshaft yolk to bang against the steel mounting bracket. Maybe someone knows of an aftermarket polly version which is more durable.
 

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I thought that GM came out with a one-piece drive shaft for those truck with carrier bearings? Of course, now that would be quite a bit more expensive now that you are out of warranty, but I thought that was GMs fix for the carrier bearing. Maybe you could go to a junk yard and get a one piece. Your truck is a crew cab short bed right?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
One piece Driveshaft?

Yes, it is a crew cab short bed. So I assume there has been issues with the carrier bearing and I'm not the only one. Well, I'm headed down to the dealer now to get a sideview mirror replacement estimate. (Moron Valet parker mashed it)
So I'll ask them about the one piece driveshaft deal. Thanks.
 

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Yeah, it was a problem with vibrations and such. My truck came with a 1 piece driveshaft, and it is a crew cab short box....is your truck 4wd? That could be why mine didn't come with a carrier also. Either way, I have seen long beds with a 1 piece driveshaft too.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Split driveshaft carrier problem

Yeah, it was a problem with vibrations and such. My truck came with a 1 piece driveshaft, and it is a crew cab short box....is your truck 4wd? That could be why mine didn't come with a carrier also. Either way, I have seen long beds with a 1 piece driveshaft too.
I don't get it. Yesterday, my dealer told me there is no one piece driveshaft for my truck. Mine is a two wheel drive crew short bed. The one under your truck should fit mine, right? Conclusion: Most dealers don't know jack about their own vehicle line. Guess that's no news.:rof
 

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My driveshaft may be shorter because of the transfer case. I thought there was a fix for that. Have them look up this TSB:

File In Section: 04 - Driveline Axle

Bulletin No.: 01-04-17-001A

Date: June, 2001

TECHNICAL
Subject:
Launch Shudder On Acceleration
(Install New One-Piece Propeller Shaft)

Models:
1999-2001 Chevrolet and GMC K2500/3500 Extended and Crew Cab Long Box Pickup Models With Automatic Transmission

This bulletin is being revised to remove an illustration. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-04-17-001 (Section 04 - Driveline/Axle).

Condition

Some customers may comment on a vibration during acceleration from 0-40 km/h (0-25 mph). This may also be referred to as launch shudder. This condition may be more noticeable when the vehicle is carrying cargo or is used for towing.

Correction

A new propeller shaft is available for service to correct this condition. This new propeller shaft is a one-piece design and will replace the current two-piece design. Install a new one-piece propeller shaft on affected vehicles. Refer to the service procedure and the parts information listed below. Match the affected vehicle with the appropriate propeller shaft. Refer to the usage information below. This fix does not apply to the Chassis/Crew Cab Models (K35943).
1. Place the transmission in the Neutral position.

2. Raise the vehicle. Refer to the Lifting and Jacking procedure in the General Information subsection of the Service Manual.

3. Remove the bolts and the yoke retainers from the rear axle pinion yoke.

Important: Do not pound on the propeller shaft yoke ears. Do not pry or place any tool between a yoke and a universal joint.

4. Slide the rear propeller shaft forward in order to remove the propeller shaft from the rear axle pinion yoke.

5. Remove the center bearing to the center bearing support nuts.

6. Remove the center bearing from the center bearing support.

7. Remove the front propeller shaft by sliding the front propeller shaft rearward from the transfer case.

8. Remove and discard any prior shims that may have been installed with the previous propeller shaft.

Important: The center bearing support bracket (1) must be removed in order to provide enough clearance for installation of the one-piece propeller shaft. Avoid damaging the crossmember during removal of the center bracket. For proper clearance, no more than 13 mm (1/2 in) of the bracket may remain on the crossmember after removal.

9. Remove the center bearing support bracket from the kick-up crossmember using a cut-off wheel.

10. After removal of the center bearing support bracket, grind the rough metal edges smooth that remain on the crossmember.

11. Coat the exposed metal surfaces with frame coating using the information found in the applicable Service Manual and GM Refinish Material Booklet # 490 1M-D-2001 (English) or # 490 1M-D-F2001 (French).

12. Install the new propeller shaft by sliding the front of the propeller shaft into the transfer case.

13. Install the rear propeller shaft onto the rear axle pinion yoke.

14. Install the yoke retainers and the bolts.

Tighten

Tighten the bolts to 25 Nm (19 lb ft).
15. Lower the vehicle.

Parts Information

Parts are currently available from GMSPO.


Your other option would be to get a custom driveshaft made from what I have read around the net.
 

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I have this same problem I THINK,...but i've got a 03 ext.cab short bed 4x4 with a one piece driveshaft already,...making godawful squeaking noises and giving me the "preload shudder" issue after comin to a stop, and when takin off as well. I'm pretty confused for sure,...should i just get a new carrier bearing or what? Easy part to fix myself im guessin?
 

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I have this same problem I THINK,...but i've got a 03 ext.cab short bed 4x4 with a one piece driveshaft already,...making godawful squeaking noises and giving me the "preload shudder" issue after comin to a stop, and when takin off as well. I'm pretty confused for sure,...should i just get a new carrier bearing or what? Easy part to fix myself im guessin?

Yours is probably a Universal joint....only 2 piece driveshafts have carrier bearings. Could also be the slip yolk needing to be greased. Either way, you can take care of both when you replace the u-joints.
 

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I am about to replace my driveshaft carrier bearing for the second time with only 112,000 miles on my truck and I'm not happy about it. The dealer charges $95 for the part. Has any one else had problems with these? The symptom is a clunk when casually driving away from a stop. It's as if a load shifts. The rubber around the bearing gets soft, allowing the driveshaft yolk to bang against the steel mounting bracket. Maybe someone knows of an aftermarket polly version which is more durable.
hey im new to this forum and this is my first post, not to jack your thread but i found it while googling "carrier bearing for 2003 chevrolet". anyways, i have an 03 1500 Z71 ECSB and i realize im on the wrong forums first of all but it seems like no one knows anything over at fullsizechevy.com. my truck has been in the shop for over 3 weeks waiting to get fixed because i dont have any money(18 year old highschool student), i just got my trans replaced 3 weeks ago. i have 120k miles on my truck and the reason its in the shop is due to the rearend and mine is doing the EXACT same as yours. the mechanic wants $1650 to fix it. he said whats wrong with it is the "carrier bearing assembly" and both carrier bearings. he is charging $75 an hour for 6 hours. $1100 seems steep for parts, can anyone point me in the right direction? i have 3.73's, auto trans, 10 bolt (i think its an 8.625?)

thank's so much in advance, i miss my baby.
 

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1st off welcome to the site...If i'm not mistake most duramax don't have a carrier bearing but a 4 or 5 inch alum. drive shaft and thought the 1500 only had one carrier bearing. Unless your talking the about the rear diff bearing called carrier bearings. going into the rear diff could be whats costing you some money because you virtually have to take everything out of the housing to fix things
 

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1st off welcome to the site...If i'm not mistake most duramax don't have a carrier bearing but a 4 or 5 inch alum. drive shaft and thought the 1500 only had one carrier bearing. Unless your talking the about the rear diff bearing called carrier bearings. going into the rear diff could be whats costing you some money because you virtually have to take everything out of the housing to fix things
yeah it is the rear, and the mechanic told me two carrier bearings needed to be replaced. is he trying to screw me?
im trying to find parts on ringpinion.com, any help?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Carrier Problems

yeah it is the rear, and the mechanic told me two carrier bearings needed to be replaced. is he trying to screw me?
im trying to find parts on ringpinion.com, any help?
Hey Nick, if your truck does not have a split (two piece) drive shaft, then you don't have a drive shaft carrier bearing. It would be a "U" shaped piece supporting the joining point of the two drive shafts and is bolted up to the frame.
If your mechanic is refering to bearings in your differential, that could be big bucks.

The clunking you experienced could have been similar to mine. By the way, mine is doing it again!! Someone should be making a more durable replacement!

Good luck.
 

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The "Clunk" --on a two piece drive shaft (Feels like some hit you from the rear when you take off) is usually caused by the splines where the two shafts go together. The grease gets hard and sticky and will not allow the shafts to slide easy when you stop ot take off.

You have to remove the shaft-- cut the band from the center section rubber seal-- clean spline and yoke and put back together with good grease. You can use a tie strap instead of the metal band on the rubber seal. Do not use a hose clamp-- you will cause a vibration on the shaft.

Hope this helps! Jerry
 

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thanks for the help fellas. And it is both carrier bearings in the rear differential. And the whole carrier bearing assembly that houses the spider gears needs to be replaced also.
 

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that might expensive but if you have a chance check with 4 wheel part and put a posi- rear diff in it you can get better traction...look at the eaton products i found a 10-bolt for $459.99 in a 4x4 magazine but the magazine is from May 08.
 

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that might expensive but if you have a chance check with 4 wheel part and put a posi- rear diff in it you can get better traction...look at the eaton products i found a 10-bolt for $459.99 in a 4x4 magazine but the magazine is from May 08.
and I would have to do that in addition to all the carrier crap?
 

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I know this is an old post but im having the same noise. Mine also whines loudly while decelerating. I put the rear axle in jackstands and put it in drive and let it it spin. there is a slight knocking sound coming from what sounds like, the rear of the driveshaft. I would have to guess it comes from the rear-end. Any ideas??
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Clunking, whining, knocking

I know this is an old post but im having the same noise. Mine also whines loudly while decelerating. I put the rear axle in jackstands and put it in drive and let it it spin. there is a slight knocking sound coming from what sounds like, the rear of the driveshaft. I would have to guess it comes from the rear-end. Any ideas??
If it's not something simple like the u-joints, then I'd be lost. Hope someone else can help. Sorry.
 

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I don't have a carrier bearing but I have a shudder at take off when turning from a stand still. Sometimes it even has a grinding effect. Doesn't seem like a u-joint (been there on tons of equipment), changed the rear diff fluid and had to small flakes of aluminum. Doesn't look good, this truck has just under 30k and no reason to be giving diff trouble. They'll have my aZZ if I take it in, been running a DPF delete and EFI live since new. At a loss unless I'm missing something simple.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Shuddering around a corner?

Coker 6303, do you have a limited slip differential? Sounds like it is locking up or engaging and disengaging when you start off into a turn. I have a '69 Camaro with a posi and I had that experience when it was just a few months old. I took it in and had the fluid replaced and all has been good. That was forty years ago. Worth a try?
 
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