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Verify your voltages! I thought i had tuning issues, turbo solenoid and vane position sensor issues and it turned out to be a bad switch. this can be verified using autocal, V2 or plain old multimeter. Autocal should read 1. non DSP5 and 2-5 should read DSP5. Not sure if you can read voltage with a V2 since I don't have one and last and most accurate is the multimeter. Place probes on the back of switch and read each positions voltage. They should decrease in voltage from about 4.5V in position 1 to around.5V in position 5. My switch position #2 (tow tune) voltage wasn't changing, hence my issues with no turbo brake.
 

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OK, installing a switch in an LMM. Ive checked and rechecked the slots. 46 and 54. Red signal wire next to the tan wire, Black ground next to the yellow wire with black stripe. Tried a second brand new switch. Both switches give me the same resistance when checked with a multi meter. The pins are most definitely below the purple slide locks. I load the tune and I get 0 volts and Non DSP for the two DSP5 PIDs when I check with the scan tool. I look at the face of the connector and each one appears to be at the bottom of the hole. The pins on the ECM look good. The connector seems to seat all the way down with normal ease. I tried jumping a good chassis ground to the soldered spot on the switch thinking maybe the ground was bad. No dice.

Can someone point me in the direction that finds me the missing piece to this puzzle? Im pretty stumped.
 

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Signal wire hasn't seated, get something to push it on a little more.
 

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Signal wire hasn't seated, get something to push it on a little more.
You know whats interesting about that. The signal wire snaps by the little detent and the ground wire does not. I'll try pushing on it with something tomorrow. If its not seated all the way, you sure wouldn't know by looking at the face the plug. It looks like its most definitely at the bottom on the hole like all the factory connections.
 

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I would ground the switch at the battery at least temporary and then play only with the signal wire. 99 out of 100 times the pin isn't seated right. You sure it was clocked right?
 

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I would ground the switch at the battery at least temporary and then play only with the signal wire. 99 out of 100 times the pin isn't seated right. You sure it was clocked right?
I know, thats why Im so friggin mad. I wouldn't say ive put in alot of these things, but more than a handful with never an issue.


I am pretty confident it was clocked right, they only go in easy one way. And with the second switch, I looked over the plug, noticing the little hole for the tool to release the detent always faces away from the next hole up.

I Blew out the empty holes with an airgun as there appeared to be some rather nasty dielectric grease that was half hardened up.
 

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Thanks Nick. The close up of the connector does clear up that I read the diagram corrrectly and have the correct pin holes. Which I was confident that I did but starting to wonder if I was nuts :cookoo[1]:

I guess i'll try screwing with it more tonight. I'm gonna have another set of hands to keep an eye on the scan tool while I mess with it. I'll also grab some electrical cleaner to try.
 

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Yep. Still no dice. Cleaned everything good. Still no workie. What in the hell am I missing?

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Installed a dsp5 switch and tunes last night first two tunes worked fine other than defueling badly on the shift for the second tune. The third fourth and fifth spots would kill the truck any idea what it could be???????
 

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Installed a dsp5 switch and tunes last night first two tunes worked fine other than defueling badly on the shift for the second tune. The third fourth and fifth spots would kill the truck any idea what it could be???????
Have you been letting the trans learn? The defuel is there to HELP you. You're probably killing the trans and it's trying to save itself. Whose tunes?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Thanks for all the help guys I m gonna check my Lbz again before taking it too a shop!
 

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Hello everyone.
I just purchased a 2007.5 gmc 2500 with the EFI live and DSP 5 switch.
My truck seems to be stuck in the night HP setting. I canning get the switch to work on any other setting? Any advice?

Thanks a lot!!
 

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Did you purchase it from ATP? Give them a call if you did and they will help you out the best they can. Their customer service is great.
 

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AutoCal and DSP5

I bought the AutoCal and the DSP5 switch. Had a shop load the DSP5 tune on the AutoCal and dump it into the ECM. My switch does not change anything. The shop says its because m wires aren't seated. I've checked and the wires are seated. I even get a voltage change when I turn the switch and use a volt meter to check the voltage on the signal wire. The shop that sold all of this to me wont help after the sale of the AutoCal and the tune. I get the error code $0280 over and over and over.........so I figured if I install the switch and DSP5 tune I wont have to use the AutoCal to change tunes. Well it doesn't work either.....frustrated and about done with EFI LIVE. I'm ready to take it back and get an H&S. :help
 

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Check and make sure no fuses blew...Also make sure your radio and head lights are off and doors closed. I've heard some funny things interfere with the connection. ...

Sent Screaming Through The Turbo of My Duramax
 
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Capt.D,

I close the door, turn off the lights, turn off the radio, the climate control, and still it takes 20+ fails before it finishes a tune flash. Error $0280. I even tried to connect my pc through my AutoCal. The DSP5 was not an available pid to check the voltages.
 

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I recently had an issue with trying to insert the pins on my LBZ. The problem was the silicone they used to seal the hole in the connector, you have to get it all out and not just poke through it. The solution was a small drill bit that would fit in the hole and slowly turn it by hand to pull the silicone out. There is more in there than you think. Once I had it all cleaned out the pins slid right in. Everything is good now.
 
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