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Discussion Starter #1
Duramax Balancing Big Bore Exhaust Manifold. Makes it easy for your engine to exhale.

Driver’s side full bore exhaust manifold for the 2001-2006 Duramax balances your engine power, reduces cylinder load, reduces exhaust temperature, exhaust backpressure and improves fuel economy.

The stock manifold:

• Only flows 80% of the passenger side manifold
• 3 cylinders only operate at 80% capacity & load others down
• No access to measure exhaust temperature

The BD manifold:

• Flow matches the passenger side manifold and balances the engines exhaust pressure.
• Maintains consistent exhaust pressure and temperature on both sides of the engine.
• Contains Exhaust temperature probe port.

BD uses a high silicon Ductile iron that prevents cracking from heat expansion and vibrations. Manifold gaskets required.

The BD Manifold compliments BD's SuperMax turbo charger kit for fully engineered exhaust flow design.
 

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Oh...... Squirrel!
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Bobo
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It was an easy install on my truck. My EGT probe does not fit in the hole very deep since I needed an adapter for my Autometer pyrometer. That was the only thing I didn't like. Otherwise, no issues.

FYI, I had my pyro in the passenger side manifold and the manifold cracked. A lot of manifolds crack after they are drilled because of the heating and cooling cycles the manifold goes through. I replaced that manifold and got a BD that won't crack on me.
 

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As far as I know BD is the only manufacture offering anything like this. BD is on the front end of diesel dovelopment and has their stuff together. I use their stuff shamelessly and thrash it at will. It holds up. For the price, you are hard pressed to beat most anything these guy come up with. I love em!
 

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Pat, is there an EGT probe you recommend for the BD manifold? This way I can get a gauge set ordered as I am planning on installing my manifold in a few days. I got my manifold from US Dieselparts.com and it was around $284.
 

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Smoke. It's what's cookin
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Is there really a significant difference in performane? or can you tell? does it have a spot to put a pyro?
 

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I know of no other manufacturer to offer a heavy duty manifold. I read a while back where the performance modules for diesels can/will crack the manifolds with the high temps. They have to have silicon impregnated iron. I read that Chevy did this but its manifold has a restriction (forgot which side) that impedes exhaust flow. The cat or turbo back exhaust upgrade would at best, only improve this flaw. The temp probe port is a good idea. I wish it had come out sooner when I was busting a knuckle drilling that port.
 

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Is there really a significant difference in performane? or can you tell? does it have a spot to put a pyro?
Can't say as I have really seen any notice to the difference as yet. I just installed it on Friday along with a high idle. It does have a port already taped in the rear of the manifold and comes with two inserts; one for a thremocoupler and one that is just a cap if you don't have one.

I have pictures of the install but haven't been able to upload them to photobucket yet
 

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Smoke. It's what's cookin
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Cool. let me know when you do. How hardwasit to install?
 

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Not to bad at all :tease I removed the turbo inter cooler piping after I removed the tire and the fender liner. Considering I'm no mechanic and I had to scrounge a few tools from my father in-law; the BD instructions were pretty useful except for telling you all the things that you should move out of the way :confused: . It was not bad but not for the beginner either. The exhaust flange bolts going into the exhaust pipe to the turbo were a freaking nightmare :blowup especially the one closest to the block. They are 12 point bolts and are so snug I had to use a breaker bar all the bolts and even the manifold ones. It should be a snap for you on the farm having access to all the right tools. I'd say no more than 2-3 hours if you take your time. I did install the new gasket that came with it as the old one was pretty rusty colored from the old manifold. I figured after all I had to do to my truck, running around, taking breaks and gathering stuff it was around 12 hours from the time I started to the time I finished up.
:getrdone
 

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Discussion Starter #13
As far as dyno numbers go, you most likely wont see an actual hp number increase, or if you do it would be very small. The bottom end throttle response is going to get much better as you are getting all of the exhaust driving the charger so in turn it spools up much quicker. EGTs drop about 50deg. It is pretapped for a pyro probe. I cant comment on mileage because I havent seen it first hand, but I have heard people picking up a bit.
 

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I think its more part of a good "package" as for the overall gains. I would guess you may see some improvement on an engine dyno that will pick up small gains etc and allow more finite testing. We make it a point to install these on all engine builds as I may not be able to prove its doing anything but the idea is sure hard to ignore. Always a great fit as well.
 

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Smoke. It's what's cookin
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Well I put on my Manifold on Monday night and it wasn't really fun but I did figure some things out about my truck. The exhaust pipe bolts were a mother to get off. When I got my manifold bolts out one entire stud came out. The nut would not break loose. Should I be worried about it. Also the torque specs don't seem very high. So I went just a couple lbs. higher on the torque wrench. Haven't been able to drive much since I put it on but it did seem like it had just a little more on the low end.
 

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Well I put on my Manifold on Monday night and it wasn't really fun but I did figure some things out about my truck. The exhaust pipe bolts were a mother to get off. When I got my manifold bolts out one entire stud came out. The nut would not break loose. Should I be worried about it. Also the torque specs don't seem very high. So I went just a couple lbs. higher on the torque wrench. Haven't been able to drive much since I put it on but it did seem like it had just a little more on the low end.
After about a week of driving go back and retorque the bolts to make sure they are tight and to spec. As for the stud backing out with the nut, well, thats what happens when manufacturers build stuff without antisieze on threads.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
One thing as a little tip is if you can for a couple of days before you are going to do the job, try hitting the studs and nuts with some good penetrating lube. This can help to loosen the nuts up and make it an easier job.
 
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