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Discussion Starter #1
Last week my 2013 Silverado 2500HD duramax went into limp mode, while going about 65mph on the freeway. Warning message said "low power or reduced power" . Managed to make it onto the right shoulder. Limped about 30 feet in low power mode, then turned engine off.

Engine would not turn back on.



2 weeks prior to above incident, I got the message "Water in Fuel, Service Required" . I made a mistake and ignored it, thinking it was displayed in error because there were no leaks with my fuel lines or fuel tank. I just learned that Diesels accumulate moisture in the fuel .


So is my engine damaged because I drove with the "Water in Fuel" warning for about 2 weeks? I had no issues driving with that message though. Got the same fuel economy I always get and engine always started right up.



Can I fix this problem myself at home?

What all needs to be done to fix the "Water in Fuel" issue and get the truck out of limp-mode ?

Is there a water trap ? Is there a water filter on the fuel lines that needs to be replaced?
Does the fuel filter need to be replaced?


Thanks
 

LHN...We ARE the Joneses
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Have you ever changed the fuel filter on your '13?

Did you know that there was a fuel filter on it?

:|
 

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The stock fuel filter has an excellent water filter in it.

Water sensor is screwed into the bottom of the fuel filter.

'Diesel supplement to owners manual' includes instructions how to change it.

'Diesel supplement' can be downloaded from the 'owners' section of the gmc or chev websites if the paper one has been misplaced of if a pfp copy would be more convenient.



Depending on the amount of water you've got it might require more than one filter change and/or might require removing water from the fuel tank.
 

LHN...We ARE the Joneses
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"low power or reduced power"
This is warning of the damage done.

Sorry.
 

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I鈥檇 change the fuel filter to start with, and get it primed back up. You will either need to take it to a shop, or use a scanner to check and see if the truck is building any fuel rail pressure while you鈥檙e cranking it over. If it isn鈥檛, you鈥檒l need to diagnose it further to see if it鈥檚 the CP4, or some other issue preventing fuel from getting to the CP4.


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If you were able to drive 30 ft after pulling off the hwy then you may be ok to replace the filter and prime as suggested above. I think that if the CP4 grenaded you would have gone to no power and not been able to move the 30 ft when you were off the hwy. I hope its that simple.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Have you ever changed the fuel filter on your '13?

Did you know that there was a fuel filter on it?

:|
Thanks all for the replies. Sorry for the late responses, on my own thread. Just super tired and busy from college morning and night.

Back on topic. I have not changed the fuel filter, because I bought the truck about 2 years and 3 months ago from a dealer. The dealer said they had changed the filters and fluids. I didn't think the fuel filter needed changing for awhile. Only driven about 10K miles since buying it.


I am going to have my mechanic fix it.
So I should ask him to change the fuel filter? That's it?


Thanks again for the responses everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you were able to drive 30 ft after pulling off the hwy then you may be ok to replace the filter and prime as suggested above. I think that if the CP4 grenaded you would have gone to no power and not been able to move the 30 ft when you were off the hwy. I hope its that simple.
But when I turned the engine off, it would not turn back on. Is the engine not turning back on a typical response for limp mode?
 

LHN...We ARE the Joneses
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With your model, the CP4 pump is subject to failure from contaminated/lack of lubricity fuel.
When it fails, it's a catastrophic failure involving the complete fuel system. It's costly.

Water is not a lubricant. If you had enough water collected to trigger the warning, most people freak and address it immediately. As it's a mystical thing to most owners, never having ever seen it activated....some even claim it doesn't work.

So when yours showed it does in fact work, it's not a false alarm and needed to be drained, and what's left in the tank needs some additives at the least. I asked about if you knew your way around the filter, because the drain is on the bottom, part of the WIF (water in fuel) sensor....a large white wing nut to open and let drain.

Yours was a multi week ignore.
When the CP4 fails, the engine just quits or limps to the side of the road, never to start again once turned off.

There are various causes of limp modes though, so you need to pull some codes to point toward what's causing it, so there's that hope. But what you've described screams the death of a CP4.

Sry :|
 

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Discussion Starter #11
With your model, the CP4 pump is subject to failure from contaminated/lack of lubricity fuel.
When it fails, it's a catastrophic failure involving the complete fuel system. It's costly.

Water is not a lubricant. If you had enough water collected to trigger the warning, most people freak and address it immediately. As it's a mystical thing to most owners, never having ever seen it activated....some even claim it doesn't work.

So when yours showed it does in fact work, it's not a false alarm and needed to be drained, and what's left in the tank needs some additives at the least. I asked about if you knew your way around the filter, because the drain is on the bottom, part of the WIF (water in fuel) sensor....a large white wing nut to open and let drain.

Yours was a multi week ignore.
When the CP4 fails, the engine just quits or limps to the side of the road, never to start again once turned off.

There are various causes of limp modes though, so you need to pull some codes to point toward what's causing it, so there's that hope. But what you've described screams the death of a CP4.

Sry :|
When you failure of the complete fuel system, does that mean only the CP4 pump needs replacement or do the fuel rails , fuel sensors and lots of other things need to be replaced?


This is for everyone.

I talked to my mechanic, who was the body shop who repaired my truck a few years back and he doesn't do diesels so I am looking around now for someone who does know diesels.
So I was thinking of giving it a go myself first.


Can someone please give me a list of steps to do?

* I take it I definitely need to replace the fuel filter. Anyone have links on getting this done?
* Is there a water trap or some other filter that needs to be replaced?
* Do I need to drain the whole tank? If so is there a drain plug?
* Is there a water / moisture sensor that needs to be replaced, and if so where is it located?

Once the above is done, do I just unplug the batteries for 10 mins or so, to reset all codes?

Assuming all the above is done , and truck is still not starting, then it could be the CP4 pump? Or is there something else that needs to be checked? I would like to leave replacement of the pump as a last resort, if less expensive solutions don't work out.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I also would like to know what NOT to do when trying to fix the problem?

I just turned the key in the ignition, the starter kicks in and tried to start. I almost immediately turned it off again, not knowing if the engine might get damaged if the starter tries to crank it but no fuel gets delivered.

Wanted to see if the engine was seized. Does starter turning over mean the engine is not seized?
 

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If the cp4 fails, it will usually send metal through the entire system.

This means you need to replace everything. Injectors, pump, lines, rails, clean the tank, etc.

They make catastrophic failure kits that run around $5k


You can pull the regulator and see how much metal is on the screen. You may see some even if the pump hasn't totally failed yet, but it will get you an idea. Its fairly easy to check. It is right on the top of the pump. Held in with screws.
 

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Fuel filter replacement instructions are in the Diesel Supplement to the owners manual.

If you don't have one, it can be downloaded from the 'owners' section on GM's website.

The stock filter is an excellent water filter.
Parker/Racor made the stock filter for ACDelco, so it is available with branding from either.

Readily available online from supporting vendors or source locally.

https://dmaxstore.com/products/?route=product/product&product_id=170
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I had truck towed to repair shop on Saturday. He will look at it today. He isn't familiar with these diesel Silverados but said he can work on diesels.

So I tried explaining to him what needs to be done.

Just to be clear I need to replace the fuel filter. Is the water filter a separate component of the fuel filter or is the Fuel and water filter all one assembly, such that replacing the fuel filter will also replace the water filter?

Is the water sensor a separate assembly? If not then do I need to replace that also?

Is there a water or moisture trap? Is there a drain plug somewhere on the fuel tank or attached to the fuel filter lines that needs to be opened up?


Going step-by-step from least expensive and involved repair to more complex:

1) I just tell mechanic to replace the Fuel filter first ?
2) Then prime the fuel pump? Does priming just involve cranking the engine over?
3) Then disconnect the batteries for 10 minutes or so?
 

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CP4 self-destructs, We call them Particle makers, The shop will need to Remove FCA/FPR if it looks like this , The entire system will need to be Removed and decided weather to replace or Clean, Injectors and Pump are Done, the Only components to clean are Rail/Lines, This requires someone that Knows how to clean them to perfection or you will be replacing the Injectors twice.
 

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LHN...We ARE the Joneses
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1) I just tell mechanic to replace the Fuel filter first ?
2) Then prime the fuel pump? Does priming just involve cranking the engine over?
3) Then disconnect the batteries for 10 minutes or so?
This is a pic of your fuel filter assembly under the hood (similar, yours doesn't have the fuel heater, so no black/red wires on top)



The single filter is both a water separator and particulate filter.

The white thing on the bottom with the blue & pink wires hanging, that's your Water in Fuel sensor and drain valve. When you change the filter, that WIF sensor is unscrewed and installed on the new filter.

The round silver cylinder on top, that's your primer button. Push down on that several times until firm (maybe 8-10x). Next to it, you'll see a black hex head with a slot, that's your bleeder screw. Open that and release the air that's been displaced by fuel drawn into the filter by the primer button.

Once the air is released, Close that bleed port (by hand, it seals with an O-ring, doesn't need to be treated like a torqued down lug nut...it strips easily), and then pump the primer again until firm (just a few strokes this time).

Truck is now ready to start. :wink2:
Unless the CP4 did a Seppuku (Hara-kiri) number.....then it's on to pulling the FPR shown in the post above, looking for metal evidence. Or, if Your Mechanic has a filter slicer/inspect tool, you could cut open the old filter and examine it for metal.

To read and clear any codes, your Mechanic will use their code reader/scan device to do that.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thank You everyone for the help.


After replacing the Fuel Filter , re-attaching the water sensor , priming, bleeding the air and re-attaching the whole assembly back onto the truck, is the next step to Crank the engine?

Or should I check the Fuel pump to see if there is metal shavings / debris in it?

Suppose the engine cranks and runs, could there still be metal shavings and debris in the Fuel pump? So should I absolutely check the fuel pump after replacing the Fuel filter BUT before cranking the engine over?

Also "FPR" = Fuel Pump Reservoir?
What does "FCA" stand for?

Where is the Fuel pump located? Is it inside the Fuel tank? I looked around under the hood and could not spot it.


Thanks
 

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I wouldn't crank or try and run the engine until you at least pull the regulator out and check for metal.

That way if it did fail, there is a potential chance it didnt send metal everywhere yet.

The fuel pump is in the valley on the front side of the motor. You can just barely see the regulator sticking up. It is sort of a pain to get at. Not too horrible though for just pulling the regulator out.

The FPR is the fuel pressure regulator. It has a screen on it that will catch the large chunks of metal. But that's about it. So that is a good spot to check to see if anything is/has come apart in the pump.
 
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