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2004 Suburban 2500 LB7
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Bought a 2004 Duraburb sight unseen a few months ago (will NEVER do that again, when you think you can still trust people...) and I've had a heck of a time getting it squared away from the get go...super shady dishonest seller out of OH. Had my local diesel performance shop comb through the entire thing and it's running pretty awesome as of now. Seems to be a pretty healthy truck overall after some time and extra money. Shout out to Hollyrock Customs in Southern Maryland.

PO stated it was tuned with EFI live and it has a DSP 5 switch in it. I've been hesitant to run it on anything more that position 1 although I have tried it on every position for a short time on each. Can't tell too much of a difference, but I am also completely new to Duramax's and EFI live. I have zero clue what each position is tuned for. I plugged my cheapy ODB II scanner in to pull the VIN from the donor and it comes back to a 2002 LB7. Hollyrock confirmed it was a 02 LB7 but suggested not to spend the extra money on getting it re-tuned if it's running great as it sits. He definitely offered to re-tune it, but was trying to be honest in just letting it be as it is. As much as I appreciate his honesty, I hate the feeling of the dishonest PO and kind of want to know exactly what's in the truck tune wise.

My question, how can I find out who tuned it and what each position is tuned for? I've heard with the VIN I can track that down?

What do I need to get it re-tuned or updated? Handheld flash scanner?

Also, it seems like when I stomp it, the transmission can't seem to find where it wants to shift to so it's not a steady sounding/feeling shift through a hard pull. It does pull hard and there's no clunking or hard shifts, but it just doesn't feel consistent and the pitch of the exhaust changes through one gear, if that makes sense? Do I need to get the trans match tuned or whatever the terminology is? Is my trans slipping maybe?
 

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2007 GMC Sierra LBZ
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940 Posts
For piece of mind i would just get it retuned to something you are familiar with so you know what you have. It might be a shot in the dark to track it down unless the PO can tell you. As for the trans i would get the factory software flashed in there and leave it be. It is not necessary to tune the trans.
 
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If it was tuned from DuraBurb I think they used DuramaxTuner.com, you could reach out to them with VIN and they may be bale to confirm.

Tuning is not all created equally, you could data log it and sort of figure out the tune HP level, but that would require someone with some tuning knowledge to evaluate those tunes looking at timing and pulsewidth.

I do not understand the transmission comment or issue, do you have any codes? You need a better scanner to be able to read TCM codes, never clear a P0700 without the other codes with it.
 

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To tune a truck you need a v2 or AutoCal to flash the truck or someone that has one that can flash the truck for you. I don't recommend having a stranger do it as you would have to find that same stranger to re-flash the truck again in the future.

DuraBurb is both a company and something people call Duramax swapped suburbans, there was a company in Cali that owned a junk yard for example that I saw terrible swaps from.

An LB7 swap is probably a pretty aged swap if it's an actual Duraburb swap.
 
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2004 Suburban 2500 LB7
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
For piece of mind i would just get it retuned to something you are familiar with so you know what you have. It might be a shot in the dark to track it down unless the PO can tell you. As for the trans i would get the factory software flashed in there and leave it be. It is not necessary to tune the trans.
Exactly what I’m feeling. The PO/seller was a complete turd so I just don’t get the warm and fuzzies about the tune. Don’t get me wrong, it runs great as it is, but just having a piece of mind would settle my OCD. Lol
 

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2004 Suburban 2500 LB7
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If it was tuned from DuraBurb I think they used DuramaxTuner.com, you could reach out to them with VIN and they may be bale to confirm.
That's what I kind of came across in my research. I'm hoping to reach out to a couple places to run the VIN.


I do not understand the transmission comment or issue, do you have any codes? You need a better scanner to be able to read TCM codes, never clear a P0700 without the other codes with it.
No, no codes at all. My cheapy scanner does read separate TCM and engine codes. To be clear, the PO/seller is the one who swapped/built it. He's out of Ohio. A buddy of mine has a LMM Duraburb from TX that was professionally built so he's a part of a Duraburb group on FB. He showed me this Duraburb for sale and the PO/seller seemed legit. He had a bunch of built Duraburb pics on his page and he sounded trustworthy when speaking to him on the phone for a few days. Not the case. He withheld a lot of details and straight up lied to make a sale. I contacted him to try and make it right, but he straight ghosted me. It is what it is at this point. Sorry, I digress......haha

It's hard to explain, maybe what I'm experiencing is completely normal, but when I get on the accelerator, it gets up and goes...when it shifts, it'll shift into the next gear but it seems as if it might be trying to shift too early or even shift back down to the lower gear??? I don't know....

As I'm typing this out it's got me thinking, maybe what I'm hearing in the slight fluctuation in pitch of the exhaust and mannerism of the transmission while punching it, is maybe a fueling issue? It has a sump going to the factory fuel filter and fuel injection pump....again, not too thrilled with the PO/seller so a lot of the work he did is definitely suspect.
 

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2004 Suburban 2500 LB7
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Update: Contacted duramaxtuner and they verified that they did NOT tune it.

Long story short, found out my fuel filter head had a leak so I got an updated one from Hollyrock and installed it with new fuel filter and fuel lines. Still had issues with surge while driving. Replaced the accelerator pedal with OEM. No difference. Finally looked at the other fuel lines underneath the intake coming from the FICM and that’s where my problem was…sorta. The hose was completely shot.
Automotive tire Grey Wood Thigh Tints and shades

Road surface Asphalt Tar Tints and shades Grass


Replaced that and while unbolting the FICM bolt and removing the tube I noticed there was crud jammed up in there. Took a pocket screwdriver and this is what was blocking it up! Like a poop ton of plastic shavings and broken white plastic bits!? What the?

Automotive tire Gesture Finger Jewellery Electric blue

Bicycle handlebar Automotive tire Bicycle tire Bicycle Tread

Safety glove Sleeve Bag Gas Flooring


Anyway, cleaned it all up real good and put it back together and this is what fixed my surge problem. Drives a lot smoother. Pretty happy I caught this.

Took it for a rip and the “defueling” feel is still there during a WOT pull. If I roll into a pull it seems to do a little better? Who knows….🤷🏻‍♂️
 
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