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anyone install one on there own and if so where exactly does it get placed i have a general idea any info would be good thanks
 

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In the engine valley on the passangers side. You will see a pipe running from the exhaust to a clylinder (egr cooler). where those two meet is where you install it. Many people say its a pain to get the nuts loose, but there just pansies lol.. LMMs will be the hardest to install
 

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Hi. I have 08 LMM. Im thinking to go with Edge race CTS, turbo back exhaust (duals) and block EGR. So, my qestion is about EGR: do I have to do anything else to EGR system besides blocking it? Thanks
 

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oldschool
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Did mine tonight...

It's a little tough getting to the nuts.... but it's doable...

Getting the plate to slide all the way down is a pain as well... just keep working at it. I guess the LMM is a little tougher though, mine's an 06....
 

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The plate install is not all that bad. The worst part for most is breaking the studs loose. If you have a buddy that can lend a hand it will make it much easier.

If I can help with any questions let me know.

Thanks,
Tyler
MPF
 

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getting the studs loose is a fucker man but if you follow the instructions that guy put up it ain
t bad
 

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Me personally change the exhaust, do the PCV re-route and forget worring about the EGR block off plate at least until you are out of warranty.
EGR functions mostly from back pressure when there is no back-pressure (open exhaust)it seldom opens.
And if it does open it is never more than 40%, and that is for only for a few seconds when you are under load.
With the stock exhaust the egr opens pretty much all the time, all the way to100% under load.
I monitor the egr functions with my Edge Insight.
In this picture I was crusing @ 45 mph as you can see the egr was at 0% open. Stock exhaust the reading would be around 40-60% open.

This is my opinion on the new body styles, :cool:

Unless you are making the Dmax into a full time racer, forget worring about blocking the egr it is not worth the hassle, the cut fingers,hands, bleeding and the time. :drink
 

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Block it to keep all the soot crap out of your intake, do your engine the favor of that
 

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EGT's will go up some but that's nothing a new exhaust and tune won't cure.....Fill out your sig. If you have to many miles then it probably isn't worth it.
 

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EGT's will go up some but that's nothing a new exhaust and tune won't cure.....Fill out your sig. If you have to many miles then it probably isn't worth it.
EGTS will go up some. :confused:
 

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oldschool
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Me personally change the exhaust, do the PCV re-route and forget worring about the EGR block off plate at least until you are out of warranty.
EGR functions mostly from back pressure when there is no back-pressure (open exhaust)it seldom opens.
And if it does open it is never more than 40%, and that is for only for a few seconds when you are under load.
With the stock exhaust the egr opens pretty much all the time, all the way to100% under load.
I monitor the egr functions with my Edge Insight.
In this picture I was crusing @ 45 mph as you can see the egr was at 0% open. Stock exhaust the reading would be around 40-60% open.

This is my opinion on the new body styles, :cool:

Unless you are making the Dmax into a full time racer, forget worring about blocking the egr it is not worth the hassle, the cut fingers,hands, bleeding and the time. :drink
Stop giving out dis-info, we have already been over this
 

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Stop giving out dis-info, we have already been over this
I will continue giving out correct and true info, and you will continue giving waisted time info because you did the block and really saw pretty much no gains at all, but want others to do as you did.
"Waist their time".
By just doing what I suggest there will not be much egr function and if there was any issues they would not show anything for over 300K if the engine lasts that long.
Get over yourself. :rof
And quit freaking out these people new to diesels and keep your stupid suggestions and opinions to yourself. horse poo
And I`ll will continue passing on what truly is going on in the real world of diesels.:D

DO you get it this time "I doubt it"
 

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Its a $12 dollar part and 20min of your time if that. If you are bored and wanna do it then do it. As for backpressure opening it. I dont think thats 100% correct.
 

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oldschool
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I will continue giving out correct and true info, and you will continue giving waisted time info because you did the block and really saw pretty much no gains at all, but want others to do as you did.
"Waist their time".
By just doing what I suggest there will not be much egr function and if there was any issues they would not show anything for over 300K if the engine lasts that long.
Get over yourself. :rof
And quit freaking out these people new to diesels and keep your stupid suggestions and opinions to yourself. horse poo
And I`ll will continue passing on what truly is going on in the real world of diesels.:D

DO you get it this time "I doubt it"
Keep MY stupid suggestions and opinions to myself? I think you will find yourself in the very far minority on this site and every other diesel site.
 

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As for backpressure opening it. I dont think thats 100% correct.
I HAD to block mine. It was being pushed open. Just so the reading public knows.
It's not too bad a job at all.

Undo the flange with something like this (not the impact.)

Then pry the flange apart from the top and drop plate til it sits like this.

Then get a buddy to jiggle the plate around while you use a pin, or prybar to pry the flange apart from down here.
 

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I have the same setup suggested by D R C; however, CMD EGR routinely shows 5% to 7% at any speed over 20 mph or so. The only time CMD EGR is zero is during engine warm up and idling. After normal operation temps are achieved, EGR activates and continues to open and close the valve depending on driving conditions. I really think this is the norm for most trucks.
 

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