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Been seeing a lot of questions regarding EGR’s and after doing research I have come to learn a lot about them. I am by no means an expert on them, just wanted to share what I have learned in hope that questions about the EGR will be answered in one spot. I’ve gathered pictures from around the forum and the Google machine, if there’s any issues with the pictures I’ve used let me know and I will remove them. Also I am not pushing one brand or the other nor am I reviewing them, I’m just explaining the different options that are offered.
First off…What is an EGR valve? The Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve’s purpose is to recirculate exhaust back into the intake manifold to displace oxygen and lower combustion temperature resulting in less NOx production and better emissions. It also introduces harmful contaminates from the exhaust back into you oil.
“Oils exposed to the EGR environment show an increase in soot content, acid number (AN) and viscosity, while the engine and oil are both exposed to corrosive/acidic gases and particle buildup.” (EGR Systems and Lubricating Oil in Diesel Engines)
EGR in a nutshell:
Why you should get rid of it:
Now…How do you get rid of it??
First there is the blocker plate. This blocks the exhaust from coming from the passenger side up-pipe to the EGR cooler and stops it from feeding exhaust back into the intake manifold. On most trucks this will throw a code and CEL will come on (those with the FE9 code in the glove box will not throw code). Two ways to get rid of this, buy a finger stick or block it by some kind of programmer or tuning ie. EFI Live. This method is essentially the easiest as the blocker plate usually cost between $10 and $15 or you can make your own. Also, you or your tuner can turn just turn the EGR valve off with EFI Live without the blocker. Only problem with this option is the chance that under high boost situations the EGR Valve can be pushed open.
Where the Block plate goes:
Where the Blocker plate goes on the Actual Motor:
Fingerstick:
Next option is one of the delete kits. This Kit blocks the Up-Pipe coming off the exhaust manifold and allows you to remove the EGR Valve and cooler but keeps the stock intake bridge where the EGR valve connects to. This is done by using plates to block the up-pipe with a riser cap and the two holes on the bottom of the intake bridge. In the past guys have reported the bellows on the up-pipe cracking due to heat, pressure, and vibrations since the pipe running to the EGR cooler is no longer attached to something. Some of the manufactures have fixed the riser cap’s to mount somewhere and minimize the vibrations. Also this will cause a CEL on some trucks which is easily blocked with EFI Live
Stock Intake Bridge with EGR Valve Ports blocked:
Bellows that crack:
Simple fix is to invest in a LB7 w/o emissions up-pipe and be done with it or remove your up-pipe, cut off the riser, and weld it shut.
LB7 Up-Pipe w/o Emissions:
Modified Up-pipe with riser cut off and welded shut:
Last but not least is the Full EGR delete. This works pretty much the same way but replaces the stock intake bridge with what everyone calls the boost tube. This tube runs from the Cold side of your intercooler into your intake manifold. Again this will cause a CEL on some trucks which is easily blocked with EFI Live
EGR Delete from Screaming Diesel Performance:
The main benefit from Blocking your EGR is that it is cheap and it works, but unless you do the PCV re-route the build up of oil where the EGR valve connects to the Intake bridge could cause issues.Do the OCV re-route and you wont have any issue. Fully Deleting your EGR is over all cleaner and less restrictive since the intake bridge is bigger and allows more airflow. This also frees up more space in the engine bay and presents a cleaner look.
That pretty much sums it up. If anyone has anything else to add or changes that need to be made let me know! Hopefully this helps a lot of new guys that are just getting to the forum!
First off…What is an EGR valve? The Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve’s purpose is to recirculate exhaust back into the intake manifold to displace oxygen and lower combustion temperature resulting in less NOx production and better emissions. It also introduces harmful contaminates from the exhaust back into you oil.
“Oils exposed to the EGR environment show an increase in soot content, acid number (AN) and viscosity, while the engine and oil are both exposed to corrosive/acidic gases and particle buildup.” (EGR Systems and Lubricating Oil in Diesel Engines)
EGR in a nutshell:
Why you should get rid of it:
Now…How do you get rid of it??
First there is the blocker plate. This blocks the exhaust from coming from the passenger side up-pipe to the EGR cooler and stops it from feeding exhaust back into the intake manifold. On most trucks this will throw a code and CEL will come on (those with the FE9 code in the glove box will not throw code). Two ways to get rid of this, buy a finger stick or block it by some kind of programmer or tuning ie. EFI Live. This method is essentially the easiest as the blocker plate usually cost between $10 and $15 or you can make your own. Also, you or your tuner can turn just turn the EGR valve off with EFI Live without the blocker. Only problem with this option is the chance that under high boost situations the EGR Valve can be pushed open.
Where the Block plate goes:
Where the Blocker plate goes on the Actual Motor:
Fingerstick:
Next option is one of the delete kits. This Kit blocks the Up-Pipe coming off the exhaust manifold and allows you to remove the EGR Valve and cooler but keeps the stock intake bridge where the EGR valve connects to. This is done by using plates to block the up-pipe with a riser cap and the two holes on the bottom of the intake bridge. In the past guys have reported the bellows on the up-pipe cracking due to heat, pressure, and vibrations since the pipe running to the EGR cooler is no longer attached to something. Some of the manufactures have fixed the riser cap’s to mount somewhere and minimize the vibrations. Also this will cause a CEL on some trucks which is easily blocked with EFI Live
Stock Intake Bridge with EGR Valve Ports blocked:
Bellows that crack:
Simple fix is to invest in a LB7 w/o emissions up-pipe and be done with it or remove your up-pipe, cut off the riser, and weld it shut.
LB7 Up-Pipe w/o Emissions:
Modified Up-pipe with riser cut off and welded shut:
Last but not least is the Full EGR delete. This works pretty much the same way but replaces the stock intake bridge with what everyone calls the boost tube. This tube runs from the Cold side of your intercooler into your intake manifold. Again this will cause a CEL on some trucks which is easily blocked with EFI Live
EGR Delete from Screaming Diesel Performance:
The main benefit from Blocking your EGR is that it is cheap and it works, but unless you do the PCV re-route the build up of oil where the EGR valve connects to the Intake bridge could cause issues.Do the OCV re-route and you wont have any issue. Fully Deleting your EGR is over all cleaner and less restrictive since the intake bridge is bigger and allows more airflow. This also frees up more space in the engine bay and presents a cleaner look.
That pretty much sums it up. If anyone has anything else to add or changes that need to be made let me know! Hopefully this helps a lot of new guys that are just getting to the forum!
