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If you did not have the wired engine brake with a off switch, everytime you let off the throttle no matter what speed your traveling the brake would activate, same as the Jake brake on the big rigs and the engine brake on the Dodge Cummins, I’ve driven both.
If you forget to turn it off and your getting a little sleepy behind the steering wheel, as soon as you let off the throttle a little this wake you up.
 

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Pretty easy to find searching the subject on this forum.
407driver and several others has done this mod.
As far as pins go if you really want to go to a junk yard by all means do it.
The pins are easily available for much less $ than your time driving around.

https://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/how-tos-diy-write-ups/321393-lbz-how-activate-factory-turbo-brake.html

If this will work for your application 'dunno;


sometimes i forget not everyone lives within a reasonable driving distance of like 6 junk yards.
 

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Junk yards are the last places on earth that I’d even want to visit, none very close anyway.
I’ve shopped junk yards online for parts for my 91 Geo Tracker, I had no other choice.
The best part was they was 1,000’s of miles away, I had the parts shipped to my front door. :thumb
Then had to send the ABS controller to Cardone to have it rebuilt, no sense putting on a 28 year old used part with a maybe 25-40% chance it’d even work properly.
 

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Junk yards are the last places on earth that I’d even want to visit, none very close anyway.
I’ve shopped junk yards online for parts for my 91 Geo Tracker, I had no other choice.
The best part was they was 1,000’s of miles away, I had the parts shipped to my front door. :thumb
Then had to send the ABS controller to Cardone to have it rebuilt, no sense putting on a 28 year old used part with a maybe 25-40% chance it’d even work properly.
the couple i like going to are nice, they leave you alone and let you walk around. You pull what you want and they tell you how much it is, for little things like small bolts, clips ect they dont even charge me most of the time. I think i have enough assorted bolts, nuts, clips and other small items at this point to build 80% of a new silverado.
 

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Your probably not dealing with 115* - 120* days.
Not very pleasant unless the junk yard is inside a air conditioned building.

But, I know what your saying.
 

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Your probably not dealing with 115* - 120* days.
Not very pleasant unless the junk yard is inside a air conditioned building.

But, I know what your saying.
If it ever gets to be 115 in Alaska I'm moving to Mars. I usually aim for the 50's for pick and pull day.
 

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If it ever gets to be 115 in Alaska I'm moving to Mars. I usually aim for the 50's for pick and pull day.
That’d give me about 1 week out of the year.
 

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Well..... I've been looking at the C2 connector and the instructions written up and I believe it's more than I want to bite off. It seems easy enough but the way my luck runs I know I'd screw something up and bee into it for a lot of money to fix my errors. Would I also need any kind of tune with it after it was wired up correctly? I wonder if there is an EFI tune or something similar that would do this without having to do the wiring to the C2 connector? I'm just not sure of my abilities on this one.
It isn't really that difficult. You are not doing anything to any other pin in the connector. The fool proof method of insuring you don't mess something up is to disconnect Both Neg battery cables before touching the connector. Then leave them off til you have everything else back together

The diagrams in the threads I have linked show you precisely where the #53 pin is located.

But if you study it and are not comfortable you can always get some mechanic who is comfortable with that to do it for you.

If all you want though is a stock tune with the Turbo Brake activated Rob at ATP Trucks can probably write a Stock Tune (No Deletes) for you.

He cannot "tune" trucks any longer but they told me they could help me with a stock tune if I wanted one. No EPA problems with a stock tune and a TB that I can envision.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Made a few calls and it seems it's not going to be a problem to do with EFI live tunes and a DSP5 switch. I believe my new problems, er decisions, will be picking out 5 different tunes. For the turbo brake to function I am told there needs to be tow tunes. Seems most have a heavy and light tow. I don't understand why the light tow tunes have more horsepower than the heavy tow tunes though. Anyway.......Any suggestions on which tunes are welcome. My engine is all stock and I don't want to race or blow any kind of smoke or make a lot of noise. I just would like to get some extra noticeable power without tearing anything up in the motor or drivetrain. And of course the Turbo Brake option. But with 5 tunes to pick I'm kind of not sure what to do. Please chime in on your thoughts. Looks like this is going to come together after all.
 

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I just would like to get some extra noticeable power without tearing anything up in the motor or drivetrain. And of course the Turbo Brake option.
Towing and Tunes don't go well together. That's why the "HEAVY' is barley anything above stock output. 'LIGHT' tow, a bit more.
But you never want a hot tune with a heavy load hooked on.

While these tunes are tailored for the more popular Allison option, the same holds true for your ZF6. That's one of the reason it was discontinued, as it wasn't holding up to the higher stock output of future Gen versions.

That, and less than 15% of the population even knows who to drive a stick anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Interesting. I've been told my engine is an LBZ and also an LLY. Which is better and which is mine? And does this matter when doing tunes?

VIN 1GCHK29296E171158
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Interesting. I've been told my engine is an LBZ and also an LLY. Which is better and which is mine? And does this matter when doing tunes?

VIN 1GCHK29296E171158
OH...I put it in my original post but again it has the ZF S6-650 Manual 6 speed. I've read it can have a single or dual clutch but I'm lost on that information. Not even sure of the difference.
 

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It is the 3rd gen motor (which corrected all of the LLY issues with heat, etc), but when it launched in miid-'05, the newer tuning with more output was still in development.
So....you have an LBZ motor, with the slightly less ouput LLY tunes.
LLZ? marx

IIRC, your early '06 was the last of the phase out for the ZF6. It was already having warranty issues with the clutch/PP not holding the LLY's 605 ftlb.
It surely wasn't going to handle the higher LBZ 650 ftlb tuning....so,

You can upgrade the clutch/PP to handle more, it just won't in stock form.
Which is okay...just keep your foot out of it with a load on.

Towing heavy with the LBZ (32k+), I spend more effort holding my foot up and out of the throttle than in it.
There's plenty of power available in stock form for towing beyond their recommended max GCWR.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Well I am learning a lot. I rarely ever tow or haul and if I do it's under 8000lbs. This is just my daily driver and I want, don't need, a bit more power and I believe I would enjoy the turbo brake. I got used to a Jacobs "Jake" Brake driving tractor trailers and I miss it. I am thinking the turbo brake will be similar. Who knows. If I don't like it I can go back to stock. Now I'm just waiting on a call back from Ridge Runner Tuning from Tony to discuss things a little further with me.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
The guy I spoke with at Ridge Runner tunes took my name and number and told me a guy named Tony would call me to help with my tune either yesterday or today. I have heard nothing from them. Any suggestions for another outfit that may want to do business with me? $750.00 may not be much to them but it's still business.
 

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PM sent
 

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Yes, I gave your 4 options on post 18
Don’t wait for one to call you back, contact the other 3.

Start contacting some of the EFI tuners, starting with Ridge Runner diesel, Danville Performance and Motor Ops.
If your not deleting any emissions stuff then Duramax Tuner.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Yes, I gave your 4 options on post 18
Don’t wait for one to call you back, contact the other 3.

Start contacting some of the EFI tuners, starting with Ridge Runner diesel, Danville Performance and Motor Ops.
If your not deleting any emissions stuff then Duramax Tuner.
Yep thanks. I was hoping Ridge Runner would pan out. The phone conversation I had seemed good. I also called Duramax Tuner. That guy didn't seem particularly interested in helping much. Friendly but disinterested. I asked if they could change the RPM's at which the turbo brake cut out from 1550 to something a bit lower and he didn't think they could and that was it. The guy a Ridge Runner told me that Tony could probably do this and answer my other questions yet here I am. I'll try the others you mentioned tomorrow. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Hook'em_Horns! I got your message. I'll check it out! Thank you.
 

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Check a little more on doing the ecm wire with switch that’d save you about $740
 
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